I got about a 70%/30% mix of diesel and used 15w-40 in the tank now and it's running good...it's not even smoking at all...?

That stuff is like black death crude oil or what?

what's the highest percentage anybody has experience with running where it won't cause any issues, etc?

I heard 50/50 and sometimes 85/15 when using gas to mix it...

I want to run a mix of 60/40 kerosene/used oil because i will be at highway speed most of the time...is that possible?

 

This has been discussed in the diesel Alt Fuels forum for years. Not a good idea......Take a look at a Blackstone report and you will see all the crud that WON'T filter out. Like sulfuric acid, microscopic chromium, etc. No way would I put that WMO crap in any of MY diesels!

Check these out:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3635712

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3418261

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4038897

 

I had the same type of thing happen with our wvo experiment in our truck that is now gone, and an old vw diesel. I did a centrifuged and fine filtered wvo mixed with gas. In the truck it was only in the second tank. In the volkswagon I didn't have a second tank.

Even though I caught it within a day of the previous last start, and was able to bring them both back to life with a day of soaking in atf after being run on it for a few minutes, it was the wvo that had gummed up various parts after taking the pumps apart.

Even though I got them to restart eventually and used those same pumps, upon breakdown there was still buildup in the pumps. Crusty nasty crap and one little piece can cause havoc on all those parts.

That was enough for me to see if I did it ever again I would have a seperate 2 tank process and definately give a good washing before shutdown on diesel just in case.

 

Diesel in the intake and the knocking is just severe detonation from the diesel igniting pre top dead center. Not sure why it wouldnt start if you had fuel at the injector lines, but maybe knocked some carbon and gunk out of it to help it run better.
Ive run a fair amount of WMO, oft times less than ideally filtered and have had no problems. Anything more than 50/50 it gets a little smokey but that could have been injectors, and it wont like to start when cold. Ever since, been running 60/40 #2 over WMO

but As far as kerosene, i say at your own risk. I ran #1 stove oil for a very short time, even cut with diesel and sometimes WMO and diesel, and it wreaked ALL sorts of havoc on stuff. I have 300 gallons of it i could run for free and im not going to run it, im convinced it fubard my pump and injectors, and in short order. As soon as i put it in it ran "weird" but when from that to "wtf" to "not good" in a period of about 40 gallons dilueted down with #2 and who over a couple thousand miles. Still runs nowhere near as good as it did, and ever since the pump still does "weird" stuff

 

#1 Don't EVER dump anything down the intake. You got lucky this time.

Kerosene is very dry and will not properly lubricate the pump. This is probably the reason Hairy's IP has been acting up. It will wear out the IP quickly. That said, I have no idea if mixing it with WMO would help.

You can do 85% WMO and 15% RUG (regular unleaded gasoline). Play with the numbers. Run small batches. Mix up 5 gallons in a bucket and toss it into a tank when it runs out. If the truck starts smoking a lot, your mix is too thick and you need to cut it more or add Diesel fuel. If you let it smoke too long, you will carbon up your valves, etc.

I ran a mix in my Mercedes close to 60/40 and it loved the stuff. It smoked a little more under hard acceleration but not much. The car also needs new injectors and it hazes at idle and smokes under hard, high RPM acceleration. That reminds me, I need to find some more WMO.

 

Maybe im the one in left feild... but imo gas in a diesel is bad, m'kay. Seems like it would detonate, burn hot, and not lube stuff it should.

I admit when i first pulled this engine from the donor, it was in bad shape and been sitting for years. With no glow plugs to avail either. Even having fuel, we could not get it to fire.. i mean tried everything WD40, ether, plugging it in, and burnt up the starter in the process. Finally dumped some diesel down the intake with some ether and even then it didnt want to start, only pop a couple times and smoke. Then FINALLY it caught, and let me tell you the racket it made was horrible. Exhaust hadnt been finished so it was just a foot or so past the Y pipe, had fames and sparks and soot and god knows what else come flyin out of there lol.

Moral of the story, i aint putting anything down the intake e'er agin sept a couple shots of ether when shes cold...still no glow plugs lol.

 

Wow, I didn't realize Kero was that bad...I thought it had more sulfur= better lube than ULSD??

I know an old-timer says you gotta mix 3-4oz of 2-stroke oil per gallon of Kero....?

Well, I did a 160 mile roundtrip at 60-65mph to Richmond and back day before yesterday and I had about a 65/35 mix of diesel/umo and acceleration was kind of sluggish and it felt like I had to push the pedal down harder to achieve 65mph compared to diesel or wvo...

On the way back it ran like a scalded dog and had no issues..

Not only did it not smoke at idle, it didn't smoke at all the whole time...

But, my gauge doesn't work and in all my euphoria I forgot to get some diesel and she conked out right at the driveway, lol!

But, then again I filled tank and emptied filter, re-filled with clean diesel and killed two batteries trying to start it...

there is smoke coming out as I try to start it...

I have never checked the glow-plugs but after removing one I am sure the are bad
What's even worse is they are probably all cheap autolites or something other than Motorcraft!

Motorcraft #ZD9's are 11.95 ea at Advanced Auto- 11.95 x 8 = $95.60!
That's the ones I want right??

I'd like to get these but have to order them...need the beast running today!
http://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/2.html
Delivered in 2-days =$75

The one I have pulled so far is swollen, black except at the tip, which is covered in white dust..and it was kinda hard to pull free once unthreaded...
and it's a Autolite...

I hope none of the other ones are swollen or burst that they won't come out...?!

I am pretty sure all my starting problems are glow-plug based...

I need to use compressed air and a vac to clean around glow-lugs before removing them

How do I get to all of them as a few are blocked by injector lines...?

thanks

 

If you learn anything on this forum it is to spend the money on the ZD-9's and nothing else.

 

X 1 million.

Injector lines shouldn't really be an issue. You can use a deepwell socket with a universal joint and an extension to get to them.
You're right on the money cleaning out with an air hose and vac before you get started.

 

Los Angeles is a ****hole. Head to the bay area, MUCH nicer.

 

Or just avoid metro areas altogether. Bay area is pricier anyways. Central coast is real nice.

Mike

 

Agreed. I was able to get at all mine with various combos of extensions and a u-joint. Just be careful with those glow plug connectors as they get brittle AND like to stick to the plug. I ended up having to splice in some connectors on about half of mine because the glow plug connector just crumbled away.

Mike

 

Well, I think I found my starting issues

I tested the #1 cylinder GP and it was bad, pulled it out rather easy and the tip has been burned off!
It's missing like 3/16" of the tip?!
lol

and of course it's an Autolite!

When I first got truck it had a lightly used ZD9 in the glovebox- I kept it because it checked out Ohm-wise, etc

I only had money to buy one ZD9 and I used the other used ZD9 and replaced #1 and #5 GP's cause they looked the worst and were easy to get to

Anyway, took my batt to advanced auto for a 40min quick charge, got a new positive-battery terminal as the other had melted?!
installed the two GP's and she fired up after many attempts!!

My GP light stays on much longer now also!

The engine sounds so much better now, very smooth

One bad thing is that it seems the "brain" has to re-learn because it's shifting into gears too fast, trying to get into OD at like 30-35mph!
Hopefully it will figure itself out!

I think it was fate she conked out on me before leaving for Cali!

Also, I found a guy that's gonna give me 200 gallons of filtered WVO!

I have to change out the other GP's but will have to wait a week or so...they're expensive!

Pic of bad GP
http://s1246.photobucket.com/albums/...rent=badgp.png

 

On light throttle, mine has always gone into OD at 35 mph.Now if I put my foot in it, it's much later..

 

them 4.10 gears sure are low aint they.
i thought mine shifted early at 38mph into OD (taking off nice an easy/empty.)

anyway,be sure to keep track of your TPS condition guys:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ions-only.html

you may want to inspect your wiring to your TPS linus,if all the sudden she's shifting differently after replacing the positive cable,and glow plugs.you might have bumped a bad wire going to it without knowing.toss a meter on it like described in the link above,and wiggle the wires around.the pcm doesn't learn and adjust on these old E40D trucks.it's either right or wrong.