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Radiator needed.

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  #16  
Old 05-26-2012, 04:47 AM
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No 1800 sells NEW ones.....
 
  #17  
Old 05-27-2012, 09:34 PM
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Alrighty, I finally got the top tank to seal.
I finally got the hang of the art of radiator repair, thank Yah.
Anyways a little bit of muratic acid and acid core solder and the right heat, makes for a awesome repair.
I'm not out of the woods yet, I thought I had a leak in the core somewhere.
So going to hook it back up and put it to the test.
I'll keep you all posted.
 
  #18  
Old 05-28-2012, 02:20 AM
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Good deal yea keep us posted on your progress and holler if you need any other crazy advice. We are good for the that, for sure.
 
  #19  
Old 05-28-2012, 11:06 AM
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Rich, what type of thermostat do you run in your 400's.
While I have the radiator out I'm changing the hoses and tstat.
And I came across last night people saying the 400/351m take a certain tstat, I just put in a OReillys 195' tstat will that not work for my 400?
 
  #20  
Old 05-28-2012, 12:48 PM
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Ah yea there is a certain one/number called for (according to folks on here) that is for 351M/400's trying to remember the exact reason its different or special???

Have you tried the search option in the Performance, Engines & Troubleshootin 335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland section

And for your reading pleasure.....

I would go with a robert shaw thermostat. They are built to close off the internal bypass when the thermostat opens on the 351M/400 engines. The advance auto, etc will fit but they are not the correct application. I have also ordered motorcraft thermostats from a ford dealer that were the wrong application. The robert shaw number is 333-192, or 333-180, depending on what temperature you want. They are available from flowkooler.com and are $12 - $15.

ARE Cooling (Aluminium Radiators & Engineering P/L)

5 min of google "351M thermostat" will get you alot of info....
 
  #21  
Old 05-28-2012, 02:12 PM
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Ok thanks, I just want to hear it out of a mouth of a local, will sort of lol.
I know some people get pretty strict with OEM parts and forget all.
Nothing wrong with OEM other than price.
If a cheaper alt will work I'm all about that, but with this tstat, I want it to be correct, I hate the smell of coolant so not messing with it more than I have to makes me happy).
 
  #22  
Old 05-28-2012, 10:04 PM
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Just ordered a Robert Shaw tsat from flowkooler.
Hopefully their shipping time is good.
 
  #23  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:00 PM
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*Update*
Just received my RS Tsat in the mail, that's the good news.
The bad, i now have three of four new pinholes that just showed up over the week i've been driving her to see if any leaks would start.
So back to square one.
 
  #24  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:06 PM
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I still have a good radiator in the shed.

Unk Bob
 
  #25  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:07 PM
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Bit the bullet and stop the headache call 1800 radiator time.....or get to patching it up.

No place in Spg that can boil it out and fix it?
 
  #26  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:13 PM
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Rich the radiator I have in the shed, is the one that was in the red half ton I bought from you for the cab swap. Im' sure that was full of clean coolant when we took the truck apart.

Unk Bob
 
  #27  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:16 PM
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And I am sure it would be cheaper than 1800??? Are you picking up on what Unk Bob is throwing down there primered 79 shortbed?
 
  #28  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:18 PM
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Not going to give up yet, for one money is tight, so buying a new radiator isn't a option.
I think I'll give it one more go, if it leaks, then I'll make up my mind then.
Bob i got your # so i might be calling soon.
 
  #29  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:22 PM
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It's in the shed, if you want it let me know and I'll take it to the radiator shop here in Ozark, and make SURE it is leak free! But what ever he charges me, I need back. No more just what ever I put into it. And if you come to Ozark it'll save money there, just cost your fuel instead of me haulling it to you. That also I will need back.

Unk Bob
 
  #30  
Old 06-01-2012, 01:24 PM
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What a deal, how about make him stand fire guard for you too?
 


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