I will be working around my clip this weekend so I will gladly measure width and height of my front and rear fenders and post the results.

 

I think that I am going to like the cv front end and it was pretty easy to install.
I will admit that mt first choice was the Lexus 400 front clip which also bolts in but I could not find one in my price range and there were none available locally. The Lexus front clip is the same width from hub to hub as the stock ford front end whereas the cv front end is 2 inches wider (hub to hub) than stock. 1 inch per side doesn't sound like a lot but I will have to run high offset wheels to keep the meats under the fenders.
Earlier in my thread I show how I installed my cv IFS, I'm biased of course but I think my method is the cleanest and simplest way.

lol,, I had to ask the smart guys here to hold my hand until I figured out how to start my build thread and post pic's, good luck with that because I'm of no use there.

 

I think a chart of the fender wheel arch (opening) measurements of the various size front and rear fenders would be a useful reference. It would help in identifying the various models and make it easier to shop salvage yards, private sellers and swap meets. Measure the width of the arch at the bottom not to include the small radius at the corners. Measure the vertical height from the center of the arch to the bottom of the fender as if the bottom of the fender was sitting on the floor.

 

To start your build thread click the 'New Thread' button at the top of the forum index page. You'll get the normal text box. Give your thread a title and type your message. Since we like pictures and no build thread is a thread without them, you can add pictures by either being a supporter and uploading them to the thread from your computer by using the little paper clip icon above the text box, OR you can upload your pictures to a Photobucket account. After doing that you copy the URL of the photo, then come back to the message box and click the icon that looks like two mountain peaks with a sun above them. A pop up box will appear and you paste the URL into it. Click 'OK' and the picture is inserted into your message.

 

Not trying to hijack your thread but do you have any info on the Lexus 400 IFS install? I am back working on my 56 after severals years away and had not heard about this one. I searched for a thread related but only came up with this thread. BTY, it's nice to see some familiar posters from when i was a more regular visitor way back. Thanks Kevin

 

Look for a build thread by Lexcoe. The Lexus looks very viable and donors are fairly plentiful. Lexcoe is putting in the Lexus IRS as well.

 

After looking at every flip system that I could find I again decided to dive off the cliff and make my own system.

The problem with most flip kits is that they rotate straight up which forces one to either scarf cut the fenders or come up with something to keep the fenders from scraping the cab as the front rotates.

My hair brained idea is to mount the front clip to a set of heavy duty slides, thus allowing the entire unit to move forward 10 1/2 inches then rotate to the vertical.

Here is what I have come up with for the slides.





The 3x1/2 tube will be bolted to the outside of each frame rail and the smaller tube will be the actual slide assembly.
The side of the fixed tube will be notched as drawn to allow the front end to slide forward.
I had a stock of used aircraft bearings so I decided to use some of them to carry the load of the front clip and make things slide smoothly.



The bearing are all mounted with floating axels with the exception of the front two which have pressed in axels to allow them to extend from the side and then retract smoothly back into it.



Everything from the marked line to the right will extend out from the frame mounted tube, my plan is to retain the bumper which will be mounted to the end of the slide.
The two sets of bearings on the left support the front clip and the bearings on the right will keep the front bumper from vibrating while I'm driving down the road.



A view of the bearing inset into the slide.



This is a view of the slide in the full retracted position, (Hood closed)



And another shot of the assembly in the fully extended position, (hood open).


If anyone has a better idea,,, please chime in now.

Gary

 

Gary that is a very ambitious idea. How will you keep the fenders from vibrating and chirping the doors? Since they are normally secured to the firewall. That is if I follow your idea correctly?

 

I have now also fitted the Lexus IFS into a 1951 Ford Thames truck as well as my 56. Pictures in my album. Sorry to hijack this thread, the front slide tilt idea is interesting and i will be following along closely. Lexcoe

 

Once I get the geometry of the slide / tilt worked out my plan is to build a subframe under the sheetmetal to stiffen the everything up. If things work as I plan, the front end will be sliding back into the lock position, so my plan is to use locating pins which will engage in tapered sockets to secure the fender skirts and hood to cowl.

Because the fenders and inner fenders bolt to the firewall, I will also need to close off the gap between them to also help control fender flap and cowl shake.

I think I have things all figured out but I am going to do this in baby steps because I don't want to do a bunch of hacking on my already beat up front clip until I can prove to myself that the idea will work.

 

It sounds and looks like a good plan, and the way you work I will love watching the progress. I spend time watching all the excellent builds on here and get inspired, this forum, and builds like yours, help us less experienced guys build ours.

 

If I'm understanding your concept, the front bumper will move with the front clip? A PO had made the front of my panel flip, big problem was managing the weight of the front sheet metal when opening it. Required 2 fairly strong people working together. Not fun if there was any wind. Fortunately he bolted the sheet metal together with spacers and didn't significantly alter it except the inner fenders so it was able to be undone.
Also really didn't provide any appreciably easier access under the hood when open.

 

I am trying to retain the bumper but it complicates the whole operation because in order to keep it and still achieve an 80 to 90 degree tilt the clip has to come up 2 inches as it rotates from level to vertical. Thats what I have to do now is figure out the proper geometry of the lifting belcranks which will rotate on the 3/4 inch pins in the slides.

The assembled weight of the sheetmetal is just over 200 lbs and I plan to use a 400 lb linear actuator so I am hoping that even with the extra load that I am going to put on the system with my rotating/lifting belcrank that it will work.

But if I find it impossible or to complex I may have to lose the bumper and go with a smooth nose. At that point it becomes a piece of cake, just slid and flip.

 

I went out to the hangar this morning and just sat and looked at the front clip and threw away one cardboard template at a time until I was empty handed. So I sat there a bit longer when it hit me that I was over-engineeering the flip/lift thing and I think that I solved my entire problem by meerly folding one of my detailed cardboard belcranks in half. All I needed to do was to install a simple folding hinge instead of the elaborate belcrank BS that I had been wasteing so much time on.
So, after spending most of my day underneath a broken fuel truck I laid out my new plan in fresh cardboard and it seems to work, just as it needs to so I began cutting and welding things together.
I'll try to post some pic's of the revised system tomorrow if I get that dang fuel truck up and pumping again.

 

Great, it is always nice to have an epiphany. So far I haven't had any "sudden realizations" on my flip hood. I am still stuck on the folding of the lift mechanism that should lift the front up and push it forward to clear the nose.
I can't wait to see what you have come up with now on your flip front end.
Good luck with the fuel truck.