Hey guys. Got an update for you.

I did some poking around the NSS and while its covered in old grease/oil residue, it doesn't appear damaged or loose. The connection is on the frame rail and is intact but very difficult to separate. I haven't been able to bypass the NSS yet due to this. However, I did decide it was time to try and remote start it, bypassing the whole start circuit. It started right up! Currently is runs rich and has a low and loping idle. I took it for a drive around the block and the trans seems good but the engine is running sluggish. AND the charging system is function properly! I'm getting just over 14v at the battery. Mostly, this test confirmed the functionally of the ignition system and drivetrain. But, added to the list is tuning the carb/timing, servicing the brakes (quite spongy and weak), and getting all the gauges working.

If there is an easier way to open up these old weather-tight connections, please let me know!

 

Heh....

Be very careful, old plastic is very fragile....

 

Are these the black bulky plugs that say PULL APART on them?

If so, I had a huge problem getting these apart, until I got a couple of small screwdrivers and wedged them under the tabs (one on each side). Once I got them in there I was able to pull hard and get them separated. This was when I replaced my backup light switch assembly a couple weeks ago.

 

For sure!

Yeah, those are the ones. I managed to pull one apart by the battery using that method. Someone had snapped off one of the clips which made it easier to get a screwdriver in there. The one for the NSS is in the frame rail and intact. It will prove to be a bit more difficult to get apart, I'm sure.

I think instead of messing with that, I will try replacing the ignition switch and see if that makes any difference. I can just return it if there is no change in behavior at start. I need to get this sorted out so I can tackle the carb tuning and non-functional gauges.

I will say that it sounds awesome with the headers and dual side exit exhaust!

 

How did you jumper the starter? With a jumper between the two large posts on the solenoid, or from the batt side to the small S terminal?

My 82 EVTM does not even show a neutral safety switch. It shows power on the R/LB coming direct from the ignition switch to the solenoid. Hmm.

Does your ignition switch have power on the R/LB wires at the ignition switch with the key in the start position? One of those R/LB goes to the starter solenoid, and the other to the ignition module.

Clean the wires on your neutral safety switch. How many are there? Is there 2 R/LB wires? And is there 2 wires Pink/Orange hash and Black/Pink?(those are for the reverse lights)

I just pulled out my 82 shop manual, and it is vague as hell. Seems the manual looks mainly at backup, not start, and with the EVTM not even showing it....

 

I remember having looked this stuff up in the parts book about a month ago, the NSS + Backup-Light-Switch-combo-on-a-C6 began in 1983. The 1980 had the neutral-safety-stuff built into the ignition switch. I don't remember about a clutch switch.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11749087

 

Well, I'm going to go ahead a replace the NSS. I went thru the alignment procedure and it still won't start in P or N and the reverse lights do not come on in reverse. I think maybe it has become fouled with oil and grease or it is just worn out. I should have the new switch in a couple days and once I get it installed, I let you guys know the result!

 

OK.
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Success! Got the part in today and replaced the old NSS with a new one and she started right up! (Of course, not after trying without the start lead attached, lol)

Now, on to the myriad of other maintenance and repair items to do, but at least I can start and move it with out a bypass!

Thanks for your help guys!