Hey all,

I just traded my Harley for a 1968 F100 Shortbed that looks pretty well restored, but it does have a few issues. Don't hate me, but I've always been a GM guy (Although I've always thought Ford made *far* better trucks than GM ever did). Here's what I know about the truck so far:

1. The Stock 360 has been replaced with a 428
2. It has a C6 automatic
3. Posi rear end
4. The power steering is sloppy and drifts a big. Gets real squirrley at freeway speeds, or when moving at 40mph+ and hitting a bump. There seems to be a little dead space before the steering engages and it's more pronounced to the left than to the right.

I've turned wrenches and have worked on a lot of different projects (engine rebuilds, steering box replacements, etc) but again, being new to Ford Trucks, I'm not sure if the steering is a common issue for that year or not.

Any suggestions about what I should be looking at first?

Thanks!

 

steering sounds like a bad rag joint , it's a fabric/rubber disk in between the steering column and steering box .
about a half hour job , and parts are cheap . don't get the rock auto one .. it's a p.o.s.
oh and welcome to fte !!
we need pictures !!!

 

Cheap fixes are my favorite place to start, for sure!

Thanks for the help and for the welcome!

(And figured out how to add the pic...so there you go)

 

When you get into a vehicle this old plan on everything. If the box hasn't been replaced (while it may be just the rag joint) I would plan on it along with everything under the front. Assuming you know how to properly check front end parts you can dial in on any that are bad. Once again it is 40 yrs old. Welcome to FTE & it looks like a nice truck.

 

Mine did the same thing until I lowered it and put low profile tires on it, it then handled as good as a sports car with no steering issues at all even over bumps.

 

Change your radius arm bushings as they are probably the old original hard rubber ones also with the above mentioned items. You can get nice urethane bushings that would last almost forever. It is the same death wobble that coil sprung 4wd Broncos and F-100/150's have if the bushings aren't replaced.

 

The rag joint is the most likely but there are a lot of other parts that need inspected. Have a helper wiggle the steering wheel and look it over underneath. Those steering boxes get worn and the pitman shaft wobbles side to side. Sadly Ford just used the machined housing for a bushing so you will need to have the housing machined out for a new bushing. Don't trust those reman boxes, they don't always address that wear and just ad an extra spacer in the seal stack that now provides a wear surface about1/4 inch wide.

 

So I took a look at the rag joint and it seems to be moving exactly in tune with the movement of the steering wheel. It still looks beat to Hell and is probably the original, so I'll get to replacing that. The shaft leading into the gearbox is moving in time with the movement of the steering wheel and it looks like the delay is starting in the gearbox... so I'm thinking that's probably the main issue. (At least so far). Once the gears are moving in the gearbox, everything below that seems to be moving in time.

So I am thinking of a couple options. First, just replace the gearbox. The second, more complex option is to try and upgrade to Rack and Pinion. I'm not a welding or fabrication guy (but willing to learn) so if anyone knows of some bolt-on options for that, I am all ears. If I *really* wanted to go whole hog, I'd upgrade to IFS and Rack and Pinion at the same time, but like I said... I'm not a welder...yet. Any suggestions? Also... suggestions for respectable gearboxes and steering components would be awesome.

Thanks!

 

I was under the impression you had done time professionally repairing automobiles. You do not sound like it in your last post. If you make some attempt at rack & pinion with the I Beam suspension what you do will be a complete waste if you later intend on swapping out the front suspension. You really would be best served just fixing what you have.

 

If the box is really worn bad this may not help, but there is an adjustment on the top of the box. Loosen the lock nut and the you can make an adjustment by turning the inner threaded rod. It will feel real notchy if you get it too tight. If it gets notchy before the slack comes out of it you are in need of a rebuild for sure. Or new!!!

That is a real low tech explanation, but it may help to try.