Changed Plugs, leads to question
#1
Changed Plugs, leads to question
Hello FTE! I have learned a lot from members here! Took all your great info and did my plugs and boots today on my V10. (2001 Excursion). Went with the AC Delco boots and Autolite Iridium XP103's for the plugs.
I noticed the boots weren't dried or cracked(replaced them all anyway), but had a ton a sand and debris where the boot should seal to the engine. I blew out each hole with my compressor. On cylinders 8, 9 and 10, I noticed an oily sludge around the boot seal and down in the hole around the plug. I blew them out and cleaned them as best I could. After examining each plug for those 3 cylinders, it looks like the plugs were seated all the way down (nice & clean around the seat and were not loose during removal), but from the socket portion up were mucky and sandy/dirty. I think this oilish/sandyish debris came from the outside and seeped it's way down through the plug boot/seal down into the plug hole. My question is, where could this be coming from? It's only those last 3 plugs on the right side of the engine. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
I've got pictures, but not sure how to attach them, I could email them to you if you need to see them.
Thanks in advance!
I noticed the boots weren't dried or cracked(replaced them all anyway), but had a ton a sand and debris where the boot should seal to the engine. I blew out each hole with my compressor. On cylinders 8, 9 and 10, I noticed an oily sludge around the boot seal and down in the hole around the plug. I blew them out and cleaned them as best I could. After examining each plug for those 3 cylinders, it looks like the plugs were seated all the way down (nice & clean around the seat and were not loose during removal), but from the socket portion up were mucky and sandy/dirty. I think this oilish/sandyish debris came from the outside and seeped it's way down through the plug boot/seal down into the plug hole. My question is, where could this be coming from? It's only those last 3 plugs on the right side of the engine. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
I've got pictures, but not sure how to attach them, I could email them to you if you need to see them.
Thanks in advance!
#2
Cylinders 8, 9 & 10 would be on the drivers side but you mention this sandy/oily mess is on the right side----unless I'm reading this wrong?
If the mess you describe is on the passengers side could it be the PCV or its hose leaking into those plug wells?
Photo wise I think there's a minimum time or posting count needed before you're granted those privileges. I'd be happy to post them for you as would anyone else I'm sure. Email me jwsmith 771 at g mail dot calm; remove spaces and correct intentional misspelling.
If the mess you describe is on the passengers side could it be the PCV or its hose leaking into those plug wells?
Photo wise I think there's a minimum time or posting count needed before you're granted those privileges. I'd be happy to post them for you as would anyone else I'm sure. Email me jwsmith 771 at g mail dot calm; remove spaces and correct intentional misspelling.
#3
JWA,
Thank you for your reply. I'll email you the pics as you suggested, I appreciate your offer to post them for me
You are correct, drivers side, I guess when I said right side I should have clarified, facing the engine from in front of the vehicle. But yes you are correct, I did intend to identify the drivers side, back 3 plugs which I think are 8, 9 and 10. I'll check the PCV hose closer today, I didn't notice any oil or residue on it when I removed it from the air intake yesterday to do the plugs. But this is exactly the kind of suggestion I'm looking for. What may be the source of the oil leak into the plug well Thanks again!
Thank you for your reply. I'll email you the pics as you suggested, I appreciate your offer to post them for me
You are correct, drivers side, I guess when I said right side I should have clarified, facing the engine from in front of the vehicle. But yes you are correct, I did intend to identify the drivers side, back 3 plugs which I think are 8, 9 and 10. I'll check the PCV hose closer today, I didn't notice any oil or residue on it when I removed it from the air intake yesterday to do the plugs. But this is exactly the kind of suggestion I'm looking for. What may be the source of the oil leak into the plug well Thanks again!
#4
#6
Well, mine was on an excursion. Looks like yours is a F-250, not sure if the engine compartment is configured differently on the two or not. My advice, just take your time. Advice I used from researching in these forums:
1) very light coat of anti-seize on the plug threads only! ( I used the copper stuff, others recommend the aluminum/silver)
2) dielectric grease on boots around seal to COP, around seal to head, and around seal to plug. Replace the boots if they look dried/cracked.
3) take your time on plugs 4 & 5, on the X they're a bear to get to with all the AC stuff and vacuum lines in the way, but patience, extensions, swivels (various combinations thereof) will get them out and back in. Took just as long for those 2 plugs as it took for the other 8 plugs for me.
4) start all plugs by hand (rubber hose or socket with extension), don't start them with the ratchet attached, or you may crossthread them
5) DON'T overtighten the plugs, guess these things are notorious for stripping out with excessive tightening. Forum consensus seems to be around 14 ft lbs. I did mine at 20 ft lbs, 14 didn't seem tight to me. I would recommend a smaller inch lbs torque wrench for this (240 in lbs for mine = 20 ft lbs).
6) Ran half a tank of gas through engine with Seafoam additive prior to plug change, helps to reduce/remove carbon buildup on plug threads in the cylinder.
7) Did mine with engine slightly warm, not hot.
8) Put in the right plugs, consensus on here seems to be the motocraft double platinum's or autolite equivalent. I went with autolite iridiums, got a $2 per plug rebate from rockauto.com's website.
9) Lastly, read on these forums, these guys have great little pointers and info here and there. The only way you're going to get all the little tips is just by reading the threads. They've been most helpful to me in quite a few area's when it comes to working on my X.
I know all the above seems like basic stuff, but it's all I got to share. Good luck to ya!
1) very light coat of anti-seize on the plug threads only! ( I used the copper stuff, others recommend the aluminum/silver)
2) dielectric grease on boots around seal to COP, around seal to head, and around seal to plug. Replace the boots if they look dried/cracked.
3) take your time on plugs 4 & 5, on the X they're a bear to get to with all the AC stuff and vacuum lines in the way, but patience, extensions, swivels (various combinations thereof) will get them out and back in. Took just as long for those 2 plugs as it took for the other 8 plugs for me.
4) start all plugs by hand (rubber hose or socket with extension), don't start them with the ratchet attached, or you may crossthread them
5) DON'T overtighten the plugs, guess these things are notorious for stripping out with excessive tightening. Forum consensus seems to be around 14 ft lbs. I did mine at 20 ft lbs, 14 didn't seem tight to me. I would recommend a smaller inch lbs torque wrench for this (240 in lbs for mine = 20 ft lbs).
6) Ran half a tank of gas through engine with Seafoam additive prior to plug change, helps to reduce/remove carbon buildup on plug threads in the cylinder.
7) Did mine with engine slightly warm, not hot.
8) Put in the right plugs, consensus on here seems to be the motocraft double platinum's or autolite equivalent. I went with autolite iridiums, got a $2 per plug rebate from rockauto.com's website.
9) Lastly, read on these forums, these guys have great little pointers and info here and there. The only way you're going to get all the little tips is just by reading the threads. They've been most helpful to me in quite a few area's when it comes to working on my X.
I know all the above seems like basic stuff, but it's all I got to share. Good luck to ya!
#7
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#8
I recently changed my plugs on my 2003 V10. Not to downplay everyones hard work, but I don't see why some guys make this job out to be so difficult. I've had a few vehicles in which it was much more a pain in the rear to change plugs. With the exception of the back 2 on the passenger side and all the extra little steps needed for each plug, they are all on top and straight down and overall easy to get to. I once had a car that required me to pull a wheel and peel up the fenderwell plastic to access the plugs on the passenger side and they were still a pain in the butt to get to. I guess all I'm trying to say is, if you think your unable to do this because of how some others lead on abouthow tough it is, don't be afraid.
#9
The V10 is a snap to change. Back two make you wish your hands were a bit smaller but....
I once had to change back plugs in a transverse mounted V6 in a minivan. Not only did the entire upper INTAKE have to come off but so did the windshield wipers and cowl. Even then you had to use a U-joint plus you couldn't even SEE two of the plugs.
I once had to change back plugs in a transverse mounted V6 in a minivan. Not only did the entire upper INTAKE have to come off but so did the windshield wipers and cowl. Even then you had to use a U-joint plus you couldn't even SEE two of the plugs.
#10
#11
I recently changed my plugs on my 2003 V10. Not to downplay everyones hard work, but I don't see why some guys make this job out to be so difficult. I've had a few vehicles in which it was much more a pain in the rear to change plugs. With the exception of the back 2 on the passenger side and all the extra little steps needed for each plug, they are all on top and straight down and overall easy to get to. I once had a car that required me to pull a wheel and peel up the fenderwell plastic to access the plugs on the passenger side and they were still a pain in the butt to get to. I guess all I'm trying to say is, if you think your unable to do this because of how some others lead on abouthow tough it is, don't be afraid.
#12
Glad to hear it world out good for you! Myself, on the other hand, didn't notice much difference. If anything, it is a little harder starting, and still have a few rough running spots throughout the RPM range. I used the Motorcraft platinums, torqued to 14ftlbs with anti-seize. Rechecked since plug change and still tight.
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pjw73nh
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
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09-02-2011 05:17 AM