I did the Toyota swap, Easy, and cheap. Go for it!

 

Thanks AX, I've seen that page, very helpful. Was just wanting to hear from anyone who had done it, always easy to say on a page, "So easy to install", yet when it comes down to it, lol. I plan on getting it running/stopping first, then starting on lubing, replacing, updating the suspension and steering so I have some time to assess the steering box project before jumping into it.

Didn't see your post yama til after responding to AX, great to hear, did you buy parts separate or go with a prefab kit, I found 1 for about $700, seemed pricey til I started looking stuff up separate.

 

I co-wrote that article based on my experience doing the swap, so yes I've done it.

 

Mid Fifty Mid Fifty F-100 Parts - Home sells the Toy box kit for a lot less than 700.00! It doesn't include the box, but used boxes can be had for 75.-150.00. Rebuilt boxes are a rip, all they do is replace the seals, the internals don't wear significantly. A lot of Toy off-roaders replace the box we use with a different setup because it doesn't work well with high lift kits on their trucks.

 

There were several good used 53-56 fenders for sale at a local swap meet in Hayward, CA a few weeks ago. I didn't ask the price, but they looked good. With Turlock being four times a year, plus other smaller swap meets in the central valley, you should be able to find a decent fender for a good price.

 

My apologies AX, didn't know you had done the swap as well as participate in the article . Definitely keeping that route in mind.

Yea the swap meets have started in the area, haven't hit any yet but planning on it.

 

I bought the Toyota box from a guy a couple of provinces over. He was going to put a 350 sbc in his 83 Toyota 4x4 and wanted to convert to power but the truck was stolen in the meantime. I got the box for $100 and it cost me $20.00 to ship it. I then bought the mounting bracket and pitman arm from CPP. It took me less than an hour to install it (the steering box was already removed) I'm into it for about $300.00, less the hoses.

 

What about modifications to stock column? should I replace it or modify it? I'm not to worried about keeping it for originality but have never removed/modified one before.

 

It depends on what you want. It is easy to modify the stock column: saw the shaft off the OEM box, grind two flats on the sides of the shaft to match the double D U-joint. Install the centering bushing in the bottom of the housing to keep the shaft centered, and the lower column floor support. Add a horn push button switch someplace handy or install the Mid Fifty stock horn button conversion kit. Re-install the column, connect the U-joint to the box, wire the horn, screw or bolt the floor mount to the floor.
An aftermarket column will give you a tilt column, internal turn signal switch, ability to use an aftermarket steering wheel of your choice, retain a center of the wheel horn button, aftermarket wiring harness plug compatible. floor or column shift, clean look.
No matter what column you use you will need to remove the OEM column to remove the OEM steering box since it is all one piece. To remove the column/box: Jack up under the front axle. Put jackstands under the frame for safety. Unscrew the floor plate and remove, remove the drag link from the pitman arm (remove the rubber dust boot clamp, the cotter pin. Use a large screw driver or lug wrench to unscrew the plug) push the drag link forwards to push the inner parts out the end of the link, keeping all the parts in order. Slip the drag link off the pitman arm ball, there is more parts inside so be careful to keep them in order as well. Now remove the pitman arm nut and use a couple large prybars or a pitman arm puller to pull the arm off the shaft. Cut the horn wire where it exits the steering box. Remove the 3 mounting bolts thru the frame web around the shaft. use a straightened coat hanger to temporarily support the box. Now go inside the cab and remove the column drop clamp under the edge of the dash. Lower the column until the wheel is resting on the seat or floor. Remove the wire hook from the box. Maneuver the wheel and box up thru the floor and out the door. Took longer to write this than what it took to remove the stock column.

 

I haven't read about the swap yet, but I've heard of it...
The Reason I'm chiming in here, is because I've had a few toyota's (still have around 5), and thought you may like to know a little more about the boxes, and why we regard them as pretty well useless...

The Power steering box your reffering to is off a 79-85 Solid Axle 4x4 Toy, if I'm not mistaken?

The number one reason, that we replace the steering box on our toys, is when doing a high steer conversion (over spring steering).
The box is moved foward on the frame, which changes angles, and etc... The IFS steeringboxes that we put in place of the old one, line up, and bolt up easier, as well as steer easier (and safer)

So the old boxes normally get scraped, or sold to someone who has a use for it, I personally have 2 of these old boxes, but have thoughts of using them (one for my dad's old ford if he wants it, and I'm looking for one)

Expect to pay between $30 and $100 for a used Solid Axle Steering Box...

You Can ask around over here and see if anyone has one, I'm a member, same username...
Members Classifieds - YotaTech Forums

 

Goes to show one man's trash is another's treasure.

 

So much great info! This does definitely look like something I'll be doing. Thank you

 

Couple quick questions, how do I know where to cut my column to line up with Toy box? And I have a 3 on the tree, will that need to be changed prior to swap or is it retainable with the swap?

 

If you want to retain the 3 on the tree: It would be best to measure the two boxes from the pitman shaft centerline to the end of the input shaft. Add the inside to inside dimension of the Toy spline to DD U-joint to the difference, give the shaft 1/4" of clearance inside the joint. Or mark the column at the drop and at the floor, cut the shaft just above the box, install the Toy box with U joint, reinstall the column at your marks and remark the shaft length 1/4" short of bottoming out in the U-joint. recut and grind to DD shape. You'll need to install a centering bushing in the bottom of the column housing and a floor mount. bolt or screw the lower floor mount to the floor after attaching the U joint to the shaft. Add the horn button conversion kit from Mid Fifty if you want to retain the original horn button as well. Mid Fifty will buy your cut off original box.

 

So got the 12v solenoid installed and mostly wired in today, still working on ign. switch to solenoid wiring. But have been wondering about my heater, its a simple box with I think just 1 dial control, wondered if anyone knew origins of it or if there was a better setup to go with.

Also, on engine side of firewall, there is so type of sealant around the holes for heater hoses, wondered if there was a cover missing or if anyone had an idea for all the holes and black sealant?