This will be my first oil change on this truck
I want to go synthetic
I was told that some of the synthetic oils
don't get along with each other and I don't
have a history on the type and brand of oil
used with this truck. Other than the last one was
done by the dealership and that was all Motorcraft.
Do I run one more all Motorcraft fill through or switch
to the synthetic now and what one would be the best one to use?
Location info and driving type:]Pacific Northwest Seattle-Tacoma
so not super cold or hot. Daily driver not towing or heavy loading.

Thanks in advance for the help
Sean
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/115/mytrucked.jpg

 

Its going to take a Few Oil changes to purge out all old oil. The HPO System will hold 2-3qt between the oil cooler & HPOP & Rails.


But I wouldnt stress about it and still you should go synthetic oil for shure I would just say to make shure you hit the next couple oil change at 5K it will be FINE

I switched during oil cooler change so that got a extra qt or 2 out IIRC I had to put 17-18qt back in after cooler change

Alot go with Rotella T-6 5-40 stnthetic good deals at walley world and they sell a Motocraft Oil Filter too.

THE MAIN THING Here is Stay with OEM Oil Filter and OEM Oil Filter CAP going with anything eles for cap/filter other than OEM is FAR FAR Worse than anything else about an Oil Change

 

OEM FOR THE WIN

Filter and Motorcraft oil



Oh yeah, I suggest you buy a 5 gallon bucket for the oil change. It kinda jets out the drain plug. Be prepared

 

Ok. I have read that it is too much for a pan with a small hole. Best to warm it up first?
I did get the lesson from the ford parts guy about the filters. I think I'll do the fuel at the same time. Before I got it they had done the HG,oil cooler, checked the EGR cooler and a flush and fill.
The way I was told was to pull the drain plug then unscrew the cap and let it sit for a short time.
On filling it up...
Just fill and put a new filter in and go?
Thanks
Sean

 

???????? you mean used oil container???


YES

When you Do the Fuel Filters open the WIF Drain not shure if all that drains when filter is pulled.

But the MAIN THING is to Cycle the Fuel Pump (Just turn key same as you do it for Glow Plug warmup cycle before it starts and listen for the Fuel Pump to Stop then do it again 4-5 Times) to purge any air out BEFORE you Start the Truck


Most of us pull the Oil Filter First so it has extra time to drain back to oil pan.

 

You and everyone else have been very helpful.
Will a 5 gal bucket fit under the engine. I don't want
to have a flood of oil.

Thank You

 

Depends on how tall your truck is. I can sit up under mine in spots

 

You also might want to think about a Fumoto Drain valve for future changes.

F-111 or F-111N ( the N is the valve has a nipple to attach a plastic hose to.) Flip the switch and drain into what ever. Even last changes oil containers.

FUMOTO ENGINEERING

 

5 gal bucket doesn't fit under mine.

In the past I've used some drywall mud buckets. They are 3 gal and fit under there nicely.

But now I've moved over to Fumoto's in the oil pan and engine block. Makes everything cleaner and simpler. To catch the oil I now use 3 gal peanut oil containers. I've used them with fairly hot oil and it has not had a problem. The peanut oil container has a nice wide opening on top, once the oil is drained you can replace the cap and then it has a handle for carrying. I can bring it to the recycling, dump it out and keep the container for the next time. You'll need 1 plus a small jug for an oil change but with the fumoto that's a breeze.

 

I use this:



I'm hesitant to go with the fumoto as I drive offroad over rough terrian and I'd be afraid of snapping that thing off. Don't they hang down lower than the pan?

 

Jimmyv13.
I have your same concern. That's the reason I have changed to the fumoto valve. I don't go off road alot but I worry about something flying up an knocking it off. Then I'm stuck side the road.

I think I will stay with stock drain plug. My truck if lifted so I can fit 5 gallon bucket under easy.

 

1) Open Oil Filter cap first (allows oil to drain out of housing into oil pan).

2) Remove old oil filter

3) Open drain plug and drain old oil.

4) Install new oil filter - use Motorcraft only or Racor/OEM only. Replace O-ring, lube O-ring with fresh oil, snap new filter into cap first, then screw cap into housing to ensure proper fit and seal.

5) Close/install oil pan drain plug.

6) Refill with fresh oil (add 15qts) then start and let idle for 2 - 3 minutes to ensure no leaks and oil pressure comes up to pressure.

7) Turn motor off, let stand for 2 - 3 minutes and check oil level on dip stick, add oil as necessary to bring to full mark.


Since the opening poster asked about synthetic oil, I personally use Rotella-Syn 5W-40 bought at Walmart due to availability and lower cost than the other synthetics out there... yet my oil analysis reports are as good as anyone's out there (I do change every 5,000 miles) as fresh oil and a clean filter is the key versus extended oil drains - which is how the expensive synthetic oils justify their higher costs!!!

Walmart also sells Motorcraft oil filters at $19.99/ea - so it's one stop shipping for oil and oil filters.

I use a Fumoto oil drain valve and have never had an issue. I do not go off-roading, but for the valve to hit, my front suspension and other components would really take a beating before the oil drain valve would!!! If one uses a new crush washer each time and does not over-torque the drain bolt, then stay with it... but for many, the Fumoto valve just makes changing one's oil quicker, easier and cleaner (personal preference).

Good luck,

 

I'm not really worried about the fumoto getting knocked loose offroad. If you have stuff getting that far up there past the front axle...well you have other issues. I have seen where some guys have lockwired the valve shut though. I'm paranoid and would likely do that myself.

Mainly I don't have a Fumoto yet because I'm a cheapscate and paying $25 for a tiny valve is outrageous to me...just can't justify it to myself
I had that...but one of my 4 kids was playing in the garage and snapped the green lid

The $5 bucket from Lowes works pretty good, and I just dump the used oil into several other oil containers I have for transport to recycle. Kinda a hassle, but I've already got the bucket and it's the easiest thing I've ever used/seen for changing out the huge jet of oil from this truck.

 

I needed a new crush washer after an oil change. Ford charged me $15.95 for a new one.

So................................................ ........ Fumoto.

 

Does that crush washer need to be replaced each time?
Also is there a good place online to get oil analyses done
What is the best way to get a sample and what is the cost?
All this good info
Thanks
Sean