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Cowl reseal - 1986 F350

  #16  
Old 09-24-2012, 08:45 PM
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How did I miss this thread... I done the same thing on my trucks but used bed liner paint. I used like 2 quarts of it and got a nice layer built up. So far 4 years and it looks really good and no more leaks!

It sure a pith(pain in the hands) getting inside the cowl with a wire wheel/drill to descale and scuff up the old paint for the new coating to hold on.

Now I am doing my 85 Plymouth Caravelle cowl and used POR15 insted. Not impressed much with it, too runny and did not seal seams like bed liner paint did. But once its on, that stuff is ON!
 
  #17  
Old 09-24-2012, 08:56 PM
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Great write up!

My truck is leaking from the cowl, as well as from the rain gutters above the doors. I think they've both been leaking for at least eight years, long enough to make my driver's side floor pan develop a football sized hole, and turn my door weatherstrip run into a floppy piece of rusty steel. And all that water has started to upset the rear cab corners as well. My E-brake cable has about two inches of movement either way where it passes through the floor, so the firewall is damaged as well.
 
  #18  
Old 09-24-2012, 09:12 PM
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I need to be doing this to my truck before winter.

Water is finding it's way into the padding under my floor mat and I am quite sure my floor is solid after I replaced it a couple of years ago.

Seems like the passenger side weatherstrip flange is starting to go too.
 
  #19  
Old 09-24-2012, 09:36 PM
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Shaun, the rain gutters can probably be sealed the same way. Jim, I would open the passenger side airbox (bolt on cover behind the kick panel) and look inside. Mine had no sealer and the water was actually running down the edge of the seam and ending up in the wireway under the sill plate. Another place to look is the AC casing to firewall seal, mine would look like Niagara Falls in a heavy rain.
 
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:37 PM
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I've used 3M all around autobody sealant with great success, and it holds up really well. So yet another option to seal leaks.

I've used this product to reseal the "A" and "B" pillars, reseal the rain gutters, reseal the cowling on the left side and to reseal the bed seams of the truck.

If you remove the front fenders, you will find more areas where it's been caulked on the outside of the cowl. Remove the dash assymbly, and you will see even more sealant spots on the inside.
 
  #21  
Old 09-24-2012, 09:41 PM
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I have a whole case of non-hardening urethane sealant left over from a metal roof job.

I wonder how well that would work?
It seems (NPI) that it's intended purpose is identical.
 
  #22  
Old 09-24-2012, 09:49 PM
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Jim, it might work just fine, the only concern would be if it creeps over time. To find my leaks, I sat in the truck in a downpour and looked for the source, then sealed it and waited for another downpour (not long usually around here in the summer). Once I had it watertight, I fixed the floor and then re installed the carpet. On another note, anyone need a red crew cab carpet in good condition?
 
  #23  
Old 09-24-2012, 11:01 PM
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I feel lucky, I dont have a leak in my cab. If the carpet was for a single cab, I would bite at it.
 
  #24  
Old 01-11-2019, 05:17 PM
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Between body and cowl seal

Originally Posted by 85lebaront2 View Post
I'm sure I'm not the only one on here who has by now developed water leaks from the cowl area into the inside of the cab. It usually shows up as a soggy carpet. I will document what I did on my truck to fix the problem.

I had two areas, one seemed to be coming from over the brake pedal area and running down the inside of the firewall near the steering column, the other was over on the right side near the HVAC recirc inlet, but seemed to have a smaller leak that may have been there since the truck was built (more on that later).

I went down and talked to a good friend who owns the Hampton MAACO. He said If I would bring the truck down with the cowl grille removed he would see what it would take to reseal it. They have done a number of Mustangs for customers, but they involve cutting the grille off and welding it back on when done.

When I took the truck down, Dale looked at the caulking in the cowl well area, reached in and took a peeled up piece in his fingers and it came right up with no effort. He told me to go get some rubberized spray on undercoating from a parts store and remove the old dried out caulking and spray the undercoating in place of it.

Here is what I removed, notice that very little of it looks like it was still adhering to the metal.
Any one know what I can use the seal along under front edge if the cowl it had some kind of a black foam
 
  #25  
Old 01-11-2019, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Carnes View Post
Any one know what I can use the seal along under front edge if the cowl it had some kind of a black foam
The only foam on the cowl is between the cowl & cowl cover but you cant see this unless you remove the cover so I am thinking it is the cowl to hood seal you are talking of?
This seal sits across the face of the cowl and is held in place with the same screws that holds the cowl cover on.
Check post #2411
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...build-161.html

If this is the seal, you can use a garage door bottom seal. Put the large lip up to seal to the hood and the small lip can sit at the seam on the fire wall.
They say LMC also sells one but have not checked.
Dave ----
 
  #26  
Old 01-11-2019, 11:35 PM
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It's the seal under the cover is the one I'm talking about marked in pic
 
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  #27  
Old 01-12-2019, 07:02 AM
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LOL mine looked like your truck a few years ago, hope to get paint on it this spring.

On that seal you are right of it looking like foam as that's what it looked like on my 2 trucks, 1 was a parts truck.
It is to seal out the hot engine bay heat from getting into the cab fresh air in take.
If you don't have AC hot air can blow out the kick panel vents, with AC out the HVAC outlets.
Also any smells, oil & gas, from the engine bay can also come in that way.

I was going to hit Home Depot or Lowes or a Hardware Store and see what they have for foam weather strips.
I am sure I saw something that would work when I picked up close cell foam weather strip for the trany cover to floor seal.

Next time I am in the store I have to get this foam and the garage door bottom seal for the hood to fire wall seal for my project.
That hood seal stops water from dripping into engine bay and onto the motor. If you have a v8 the water can sit on the air filter and leak down the cover stud into the carb / motor = not good.
Dave ----
 
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