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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

My 1950 Ford F1 needs a new gas tank, YIKES!!

 
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:53 PM
Vegas123
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My 1950 Ford F1 needs a new gas tank, YIKES!!

Hi Everyone,

Sorry I have not been keeping up on the site and posting more often but life is crazy with a 4 year old, wife, 3 dogs and a hot rod.

So my dilema: over the last month, possibly longer I have been trying to figure out why Old Blue decides to shut down without any notice. Seems not to choke out but simply dies out. So after replacing the ignition module and the fuel filter 2 times with out any resolution I was advised to look into the gas tank. Thanks to the clear Mr. Gasket fuel filter I was able to detect large amounts of rust in my line, tank, and filter.

So I have decided to just replace the gas tank, sending unit, clean the metal gas line and replace the rubber lines. Basically go all new. Planning on buying all items from Bob Drakes site.

First time jumping into this project, nutritionist by day and rodder by night. Please anyone with experiance share your story and ideas.

Should I POR 15 the outside of the tank?? Powder coat?? what do most people do??

Is it possible to put a shut off valve at the start of the fuel line just incase I ever need to work on the lines?

All and any help appreciated!!
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:28 AM
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Hey Victor,

Sorry for not answering your phone call this evening. I'll call you tomorrow.

However, if you remove your fuel tank, you can get it boiled out and coated inside by Radiatorland on De La Cruz in Santa Clara. They did the tank in my Panel and I have no complaints. The cost should be less by the time you add the cost of the new tank, shipping and materials for paint, plus the time to do all of that. There's nothing wrong with having your existing tank cleaned out and coated. I'd recommend coating the inside of the replacement tank any way.

There should be a shut off valve at the bottom of the tank where it connects to the fuel line.

Let me know if you need a hand. Taking the seat out will provide you better access and easier time removing and installing the fuel tank.
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:12 AM
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I was faced with the same problem on my 49 but we have no radiator shops left in my area. I used electrolysis to clean out the inside of the tank. I let it "cook" for about three weeks. Apparently, the tank had been cleaned and sealed some time in the past but the PO did a crappy job, or it had rusted a second time. I used Bill Hirsh's gas tank cleaner and sealer and then painted the outside with POR-15. It turned out very well. I probably spent about $50 on the whole job but it did take awhile...
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:40 AM
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Vegas -

Very familiar with this problem and fix. Lessons from my experience:
The tanks can be cleaned - either boiling, electrolysis, or a multi-step process from POR 15 or similiar house (rust removal, surface prep, seal). Exterior is your call - POR 15 is a great system - be sure to follow all steps to ensure best results.

The shutoff may have been removed - you can find a replacement through a number of on line sources or a local speed / performance shop. Know that the steel line has been accumulating the same crud that caused Old Blue to stall. Having a newly cleaned tank and flexible connectors with crud infested steel lines may not be a complete solution. If you can blow out the lines - push from front to back (toward the tank) - all is good. If there isn't free air flow, your lines may need to be replaced. Pre-bent replacements are available (LMC, Mac's...) or if you can flare tubing, then a coil of steel tubing gets you there for fewer dollars.

I would urge caution with the sending unit replacement. If you have retained the 6 volt system, the reproduction units don't have a good record for plug and play. If yours can be cleaned and reused (replacement floats are available), you'll have one fewer opportunities for aggravation.

Happy Motoring!

DW
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:10 AM
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Thanks for the tips. Love them!

I will look into buying new fuel lines. I want to go all new since i plan on completeing the project over a weekend.

Wondering if i take the fuel line out if a break shop or radiator shop can match it?
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:21 PM
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I've used the por 15 gas tank system and it works fine. Cleaner, etcher and sealer, just follow the instructions. Replace all the lines, hard and flex or you'll still have problems. You can get line at any parts store and bend it yourself. Just get a decent bender and use the stock lines as a pattern.
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:22 PM
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If you do the lines yourself, you'll need a flaring tool for the ends. I have a few sets and can let you borrow one.
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:28 PM
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I used the internally coated steel gas lines with fittings already on them from NAPA. The way the line is routed originally goes between a bracket and the frame rail and it's really hard to get the old line out and the new line in if you try to make it one piece. So I used a connector and two lines that meet right near that pinch point.

The lines are the low point of the system, that's where all the crap collects. After a while it's impossible to get all of it out.
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:47 PM
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I just removed my gas tank from inside the cab & installed a
1970 22 gal mustang tank under the rails & now the whole
tank & sending unit are just laying in the shed
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:00 PM
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Thanks guys. Was not planning to replace the lines but a must now that i know they also go bad. Ilya i will need that tool, thanks for offering! Next i will work on a list of parts i will need and do some shopping. i will post my list shortly!
Thanks brothers!
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:40 PM
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I also have the tubing cutter, so no need to buy that tool. Let me know if you need a hand.
 
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:03 PM
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I have the same problem... Might have to break down and do my tank swap with new lines.... So I soon may be tearing apart my fuel system as soon as I can find the money for it.
 
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Old 05-10-2012, 05:34 PM
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Sorry to hear that.

I know it hurts, it hurts me deep! I did not think i would be faced with this problem so soon since the guy i bought the truck from said he would drive it to new york. He probably would have only made it to LA before blue choked out.
 
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:40 AM
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Have any of you guys replaced your old sending unit with a new one? Thinking of buying a new sending unit from bob drakes, 12 volt. Looking for plug and play replacement.

Or should i just use the old one since it seems to work ok.
 
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Vegas123 View Post
Have any of you guys replaced your old sending unit with a new one? Thinking of buying a new sending unit from bob drakes, 12 volt. Looking for plug and play replacement.

Or should i just use the old one since it seems to work ok.
If the rest of your system is 12V, then replacing it is a good idea since you have it apart. If you still have 6V, leave the the one you have in or get an another original 6V sender...it really depends on what gauge you have!
 

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