With the new electronic ignitions in use now, is it possible to advance or retard the timing like the old fashioned distributor ignitions used to do? Have a v6 3.0L dohc 2002 escape? I thought doing this may solve a problem with my engine occasionally misfiring.

 

Timing would have nothing to do with an occasional misfire.

Have you tried pulling codes?

 

The only way(s) to adjust the timing would be to move the crank position sensor on the front timing cover or to move the timing wheel on the crankshaft. From their fixed in place positions. A possibility is to modify the software in the computer.
None of the above should have an affect on an intermittent miss. Most misses are caused by ignition problems, followed by fuel and / or air mix problems, followed by mechanical problems with valves and rings. IMO.
tom

 

Just as a caution, I would urge the OP to get a code reader plugged in and NOT attempt to adjust timing.

 

Thanks for your concern. The problem is during idle, it runs fine for maybe 5 or 10 seconds then there's one misfire, a noticeable jolt that you can feel only during idle. traveling you don't notice anything. Sometimes there's no misfire at all. The #6 cylinder has low compression, 170 psi while all others have 210 psi or so. No check engine lights. I put in a Pulstar high energy spark plug and that helped but it didn't eliminate it. have new wires too. It's puzzling that it's not consistent, only does it occasionally.

 

I don't think it is missing because of low compression. Many many many.... many ... many engines run with numbers in the low 100's... 120... 140, with no problem at all.
I would be checking for a loose connection somewhere that causes the ignition to stumble, and fail to produce a spark. Could be the insulators or 'boots' on the COP have become oil soaked in the past, and become much more susceptible to cross fire to the cylinder head.
Remember: It is not having a 'high voltage' system to enable spark, but the lowest possible voltage REQUIRED or necessary to jump the gap will suffice. It will jump even if the coil, plug or whatever is rated 'high energy'. IOW, as long as the spark will jump a .040" gap, it will jump. Voltage required depends on pressure {Harder to fire at high compression..}, the 'mix', and the physical shape of the electrode. A tiny electrode, in the case of some platinum tipped plugs, almost hair thin, forces{allows} the electrons to be able to decide to jump from THIS SPOT, because that's all there is. In the case of a rounded-off electrode of a worn standard electrode spark plug, there's no 'gathering spot' where all the electrons congregate, build up, and finally jump. The electrons 'wander' and finally, maybe, pick a spot to jump to the other electrode. Sharp edges allow easier and more reliable spark, in other words... Rounded, not so much.
You may be able to inspect the COP boots and find a spot where arcing has occurred. The #6 cylinder should find it easier to fire rather than more difficult with a bit lower compression. Is it possible the injector is malfunctioning?
tom

 

Thanks for your input, it's making sense to me now. I paid two dealers to diagnosis the problem. #1 sold me a 3 part BG fuel injector cleaning that didn't help any. #2 found the low compression. They wanted $700 to take it apart to find the cause. didn't do that. they poured in a can of compression cleaner, but that led me to believe the compression was the culprit. after reading your input I now know it's electrical. will follow up on your suggestion, thanks again, this problem has been going on for a year and a half now. Dealers failed again and took money out of my pocket.

 

does it set any codes? im guessing its a coil, seen it before. but they dont always throw a code

 

No I'm not getting any codes, no check engine light. I'm going to replace the coils, thanks.

 

you just start with one, and swap it out with one of the front plugs, and try it and if it still acts up move it to the next one over and so on. until you get to the rear bank, if it didnt make a difference in front i would replace all 3 in the rear while have pletum off to get access, and do the pletnum/ upper intake gaskets (o-rings) at the same time i dunno if im confusing you or not im not the greatest at explaining things lol

 

How occasional is the miss? If it is very limited, you may be chasing something you can't fix without spending. If you are pretty decided that it is #6, try replacing the COP boot, and if that doesn't get it, try replacing the COP itself. That is, given the spark plugs are new. People have reported plugs that do not work out of the box. Dunno how that happens, but haven't hit that particular feature myself.
As noted above, replacing all the coils is a pretty drastic move to solve an intermittent miss. Lotsa bucks. You can replace one, and if the results aren't what you expect, walk the new one across the head, swapping COPs as you go. If you had a bad COP, the miss would follow the COP. You can do that w/o replacing any COPs if you have a solid enough evidence of which cylinder is missing. After determining the miss followed the COP, replace that COP and go from there. I would inspect the spark plug wells for oil intrusion as oil can break down the boot material so that arcing to the head can occur. If you find oil, fix the gaskets, and replace the boots for best effect.
tom

 

thanks guys for your help. finally found the problem with the jolt during idle. after a year and a half, changing the ignition coils didn't do any good, found it was a bad crankshaft position sensor causing the misfires. was an intermittent thing, the sensor finally failed, that was it.