Installing a new brake system on my F1, anybody have pics of their install or a plumbing schematic.

The self adjusting proportioning valve has 5 ports, it came with two valves a blue one 2lbs and a red one 10lbs...how should I plumb this? the MC has 4 ports total.

There's a small black pin and rubber boot, I'm guessing the pin goes in the MC and.... the boot between them?

Front discs, rear drum...I understand the residual valves are for when the lines are below the calipers, wasn't sure which one went to what though.

 

 

 

 

 

In researching this, I think I'm understanding how to plumb.

1. two lines from MC to side ports
2. big rear port to rear brakes with 10lb valve in line
3. two end ports to individual lines for each front disc....but do I need to run a line with the 2lb valve to a splitter then to each front disc or do I need an additional 2lb valve?

 

braaappppppp

 

feel free to correct me if I screw any of this up guys :P

here's what I learned about converting (just did dual drum/drum to my '48)
The front reservoir runs the back wheels, the back reservoir runs the front wheels.
Drum brakes need 10# residual.
Disk brakes need 2# residual.
48-52 you should have a pressure activated switch for you stop lights - 1/8 NPT thread.

I ended up taking a line out of the back and splitting it with brass 1/8 NPT T from pep boys ($2/ a fitting, where everywhere else was $6 a fitting) and then adapting the NPT to the standard inverted flare. - it was the only way to get 1/8 NPT out to the switch. beware do not buy AN fittings, they come in 3/8-24 but have a 37% shoulder (AN) not a 45% shoulder (SAE).

Feel free to ask if this isn't enough to get you going.

 

Note, I just looked at your pictures again. The distribution block you pictured has a "idiot light" switch in it. This is a switch that closes only when the block goes into failure mode (i.e. you blow a line and loose 1 circuit - a cutoff inside the block closes the 2 circuits and activates that switch). That switch is not your stop light switch, wire it up to an idiot light on your dash.

 

Thanks brian....im forgetting about the plumbing the proportioning valve for now....trying to fit the unit it doesn't line up with anything, here's some pics...

 

A wild stab in the dark based on the first picture... the kit you have converts from under floor to "hanging pedals" (guess based on the long arm piece - that's your new brake pedal arm). This puts the MC on the firewall, not the floor - it is a aftermarket kit with some instructions, a bit of fab work, and definitely new plumbing. Did you buy it off fleabay or such - somewhere that the instructions were stripped? Know what make / model - who's kit it is? I'd be looking for some instruction sheets from the mfg. Classic Haulers sells these type of kits...

 

Yup got it from ebay, no instructions, i dont see how the pedal would fit as a firewall unit...anyway i cut out the crossmember as it'll probably be it the way of my new tranny and i am installing a new tranny crossmember...i'll
make the new mc fit one freaking way or another...haha

 

hello,


I bought the same setup for my 46 truck. On my end, it will take a few more modifications than yours. I called the store and they directed me to the below website for decent directions. Hope this helps. Please keep posting updates. (so I can steal your ideas ,)



MBM Brakes, Steering, & Suspension

 

btw, I have to finish /building fabbing my floor board before I start installing the booster/brake setup.

 

HAHA!! no stealing just adapting...

here's what I ended up doing, turned pretty good.