Hey guys,I started doing the door seal mod today.Road noise seems to be getting worse,I got some 3/8(ID) clear tubing,it is actually 1/2(OD),anyway I started with the drivers side rear door,(I didn't go any farther than the one door till I see how it's gonna settle)I won't go into the details of how we got it through the seal just yet but after we got it back on,the door was very hard to shut. I'm wondering if anyone has any fresh experience with this,I did some searching but nothing recent came up,I'm thinking after it heats up and cools off a few times it should start to give...any thoughts are appreciated...thanks...Phil

 

Others have used 3/8 od. So maybe you are using to large. It may crush and work better in the long run though

 

Yeah I was thinking that too,all the post I've read didn't say,so when I got to Lowes I looked at the 3/8(it was ID)it didn't look too big,and now that it's in it doesn't bulge the og seal at all...but I certainly don't like having to slam my doors,I fuss at the kids enough about that...LOL

 

Phil order a roll of this:
50 ft Roll 3/8 Surgical Tubing
This is the right stuff and alot cheaper than Lowes and the Home depot!
One roll is enough to do all 4 doors.

 

This thread came at the perfect time, I was thinking about this just the other day.

 

I used 3/8 od black surgical tubing from amazon .com. front pasenger door is just about right , the drivers door is a little to tight .have to either slam door or hold on to door to get completly latched.hoping it will relax with time ,have not installed on back doors ,they was sealing pretty good as is.

 

How do you secure it? My drivers door doesn't seal all the way. I can hear it, but only when I'm on the freeway

 

After removing the seal from the truck,I used a length of threaded rod to push through the seal,I then used black tape and wrapped it around the tubing securing it to the threaded rod,the threaded rod holds the tape very well,be sure to wrap it tight.My BIL pulled it back through the seal till it there was about three inches hanging out,we used some CRC silicon spray,but I think soapy warm water would do a better job of lubing it up,the silicon spray we used seemed to evaporate pretty quick.

 

I used foam caulk saver on an OBS once... doors were hard to shut at first, but after the foam formed up a bit, the doors shut really nice. Thing is, an OBS can use 5/8" foam whereas an SD is only 3/8" or so... the 5/8" foam was hard enough as it was to get through without breaking, I can't imagine 3/8"! I don't like how hard the clear stuff is either. I think I might go with vacuum line or something similar...

 

Yep, made my doors close like a Chevy. I hate slamming doors so I took it back out.

Didn't do anything for the noise, either.

 

I'll have to put this on my "to do" list. I always forget about it until I'm on the freeway!

 

I used 3/8" OD foam tubing from McMaster Carr. Stretched out the seal and dropped a long piece of 1/8" ball chain thru it which I used to pull a string in which I used to pull the tubing in. Two peeps helps so one can hold it straight for easier pulling.

 

I myself had some road and wind noise on my pass. door and I just adjusted the door striker in alittle on the post. Also on my drivers door I had a little wind leak at the top but the bottom was good. So I loosened the top hinge on the door side of hinge and moved the top of the door in about 1/8" and the wind noise was gone.
And an old school way of making sure you have a good seal is to put a dollar bill in the door/ weatherstrip and close door. If you can pull the bill out easy it is too loose but if you go to the bottom and you can't pull the bill out with a little drag. Then the top of door needs adjustment and bottom is good. So when you do the door seal mod you just made the bottom too tight and that causes a bind. So my suggestion is to make sure you adjust the doors at the hinges and striker to get a good fit. Also be careful not to bring the door in to much on the hinges or that too will cause the door to bind when closing. It is all a balancing act. Just my 2 cents

 

did mine the other day less than an hour all 4 doors....man what a difference...that rear passenger door was driving me nuts!!! $14 dollars for the snake, $5 for can of silicone spray and $30 dollars I believe for a 50 foot roll of latex tubing... all is well now!!

There is a video on here somewhere of a fellow FTE'er doing driver side door btw.....

 

that's the door that I have the problem with! If you find that video lemme know! Thanks