A couple of weeks ago, I purchased the Dennis Carpenter "Complete Window Anti-Rattler Kit", "Door Seal Kit", "Upper Door Seals" and a tube of 3M Super Black Weatherstrip Adhesive.

The "Complete Window Anti-Rattler Kit" comes with anti-rattle strips (bottom molding), "Door Glass Run" (top and back molding) and "Division Bar Run" (front molding).

The old moldings came out pretty easily, although in very small chunks. I used a putty knife to get the door glass run started, then a screwdriver to get under it. Again, used the putty knife to get the anti-rattlers started, then a needle nose plier to break the clips out.

With three sides cleared, the glass was easy enough to manipulate out of the way, and I pulled the division bar out. That required the removal of the three exposed screws and a bolt, which was under the door panel.

The division bar seal came right out, and the replacement went right in. I used the rubber coated handle of the pliers to ensure that the felt was seated, and reinstalled the division bar.

The door glass run is perforated to fit tight into the corner. Be careful not to push through the perforation when installing. It's longer than necessary and can be trimmed to length with standard scissors.

First attempt on the anti-rattlers didn't go so well, as I worked from front to back. By the time I got to the back, the holes no longer lined up. Work from back to front, and the holes line up! The curve of the anti-rattlers doesn't seem to match exactly with the door, but it's close enough.

The old door seal came right out. I was running my finger under the old seal to remove it, and gave myself a nice long cut right inside the knuckle. It bled real good! Make sure when reinstalling to use plenty of tape, and check both the inside and the outside. I was all fixated on the outside, and the inside is a but droopy at the top. The second door came out much better!

Start at the top and work your way down. The seals are cut-to-fit, and you'll probably want the seam to be under the threshold molding. Give the adhesive a few minutes to "tack up" before applying the seal. Goes on easier that way.

I think only the XLT or Lariat packages had the "upper door seals" as this Ranger didn't seem to have factory seals. This Ranger did have, thanks to a Previous Owner, camper tape, tar, and a disintegrating sort of hard rubber seal that was still gooey in the center. Ecch. I cleaned that off and installed the DC rubber. It too was cut-to-length, but went on easy...with a little tape to help the ends stay down! Ran out of adhesive - need a tube for each door. They sell more at Autozone.

After a couple of days to dry, I ran the truck through the car wash. They use high pressure water to spray down the vehicles, then automated equipment for a quick wash. The truck stayed dry on the inside. I've been driving the truck to work this week, and it's very quiet now. At highway speeds you hear the radio and feel the tires, and that's about it. Highly recommended!

 

Thanks for the tips! I plan to do this in a few weeks.

 

Good job! I did mine a few years back, and from what others has said at that time, it seemd the DC stuff was better quality. I got mine from LMC, and had a few issues where the clips would all line up except for one, and I just snapped it off and kept going. But after seeing your pictures they look to be the same quality. I believe some of the DC stuff is sold to other suppliers anyhow.
thanks for the update, and pictures.

 

Time to stop that awful hissing noise on the highway!
I know this is an older thread, but I have several question relating to the install so I'm reviving it. I just purchased the anti-rattler kit and vent window seals from National Parts Depot, and have questions about the kit and install. The parts on my truck windows are so gone I can't match everything up, and the shop manual glosses over this stuff. I read people's posts comparing NPD, DC, and LCM, and opinions were all over the place. In general though, NPD seems like a good company so I went with them. If that is wrong and another company makes better seals please speak up so everyone can know!
Questions on kit:
1. There are 4 metal backed rubber strips with felt, these are the anti rattlers or scrappers, as my mechanic calls them? They are kinda J shaped, and two are larger than the others. I think the larger ones install in the outer window channel, the smaller ones in the inner window channel?
2. The kit comes with the felt lined door and division bar runs. The pieces are rubber with a fine felt coating, and it looks like they have a "barb" on the back that will install in the division bar channel. However, on my truck, what remains on the runs seem like hard plastic with a much thicker felt coating. Obviously they are brittle and cracking. But was that a different design and the new rubber and fine felt is a cheaper replacement, or did the old ones get so dry and hard I think they were plastic?

On the install: No directions man!
1. To push the scrappers into place, just use the flat side of a screw drivers or piece of wood to pop them into place?
2. So the door/division bar runs- do they require any adhesive or so they slide into place? If so, should a lubricant be used to help?
3. For the vent window seal- I don't see the need to replace the hard black trim that holds the window, I just got the rubber weatherstripping. Does that piece need adhesive, or is it just a friction fit?

Final question:
Both my manual window regulators work fine, but the driver's side the pin the holds the crank is loose. Is there a way to fix that without getting a new regulator?

Hope you make it this far, this is a long read. Thanks for any help!

 

I bought the stuff from LMC and I'm waiting for it to stop raining to install. I don't recall seeing any instructions either. I'll add to this post when I install mine.

 

No, there is no instructions. When you take your doors apart, and pull out the old stuff, you will see how it goes in, it is VERY intuitive. I also did a write up with plenty of pictures if you care to look it up. I am sure it would answer ANY question you would have.

 

On pages 130/131 of Carpenter's 1967/79 truck repro parts catalog (2011 paper version) are pics with step-by-step instructions on how to replace vent window seals.

When available from Ford, some w/strips came with instruction sheets on how to install them, as they did not match the factory installed w/strips, that were not available at the parts counter.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pin made as part of window regulator, cannot be replaced by itself.

D8TZ-1023201-A (replaced D3TZ-1023201-A) .. Left Window Regulator / Obsolete ~ AFAIK not reproduced / Applications: 1973/79 F100/880 & 1978/79 Bronco.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 3 = 800-543-4959.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 22 = 800-476-9653.

 

Thanks for pointing out your write up on the install, I missed that while searching. Good to know the runs just pop right in.

And advice on fixing that window crank shaft, I don't want to get a new unit.

 

Tees,

Do you have a link to your write up about and your pics?

Thanks,

Lax

 

Lax,

The thread is a few years old so not sure if Tees is active on the site still.

I did a search and I think this is his weatherstripping thread though:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...tallation.html

Hope that helps.

 

twofifty,

Thanks brother appreciate all the help!

Cheers,

Lax