There is a fusable link that runs from block to post at the wiper motor on the firewall. This circuit is drawing 3 Amps while ignition switch is on and 1 Amp after engine is running. Current however seem to be flowing to the block( ground) , not from it. Been having trouble with truck starting after shutting it down for a short time (10-15 min) and then trying to restart. Does'nt want to restart until after it cools. Anyone know the purpose of this fusable link in the wiring system and if the direction of current flow is correct? Could this possibly contribute to the starting problem? All major electrical components have already been changed. All help or ideas are appreciated. Invader

 

That's not a fusible link - it's just a ground strap. Since the alternator is on the block, it's not surprising that current is flowing that direction, but how did you discover that? By disconnecting it and using an ammeter? There should be several other grounds, so the current thru that one should have been negligible. If the other grounds are damaged/deleted, you'll definitely have starting problems.

 

It seemed to me it should be a ground strap, but had fusable wire.. I did disconnect and put amp meter in series to measure. Had 10 Amp max on meter, and meter ran off scale during actual starting cycle. I am baffeled as to any current flow at all, but is there. As I mentions before, this line over heated and insulation melted. Replaced with a 14 gage fusable link and 14 gage leader. Melted again while trying to start with a Jump. Then remembered I think I read that fusable link leader should be a size larger than fusable link, so replaced leader with 12 gage. It did not over heat yet, but still has current flow. Also measured current flow with and without wiper moter plugged in for informational purposes, but not change in readings. Still have question on current flow. Also when this line is discoinnected, truck will not start. It kicks over la little at first like battery is dead( 13v on bat). still hoping for answers. thanks Dick

 

I forgot to mention, Battery neg cable has been replaced.

 

Where does the battery (-) cable go? It should have a small bare area with a clip soldered onto it bolted to the frame beside the coil tower, and then continue unbroken to the starter mounting bolt or a stud at the front of the block. Obviously, your block isn't grounded and all the power is trying to flow thru that little wire into the sheet metal & somehow back to the battery. You need to give it a GOOOD solid HEAVY path (wire) straight from the block or starter to the battery (-) post.

 

If you haven't already fixed the problem, check your ignition control module and/or coil. I had the same problem with my 88 bronco. Shut it off and would have to wait about a half hour or so before it would start again. Ford put out about 20 million vehicles in the 80s with bad ignition modules. I replaced both the coil and module because my coil had excesive resistance in the secondary coil and I still had the original ingition control module.

Runs like a champ, now if I could just get the back window open.....


Dan

 

Thanks for all the input. Replaced regulator again and solved the problem. There may hve been more than one bad box in this whole process. happy trucking. invader