Anyone Got Any Bench Build Plans/Ideas?
#16
#17
i took a sheet of 3/4 in plywood and rip in half
then a sheet of 1/2 in plywood rip in half
took the 2'x8' tops and ran 2x4s lengthwise down them standing them on the 2"side
attached ends to them and crosses down them like a ladder 5 total including ends
10 2x4s 3' long in the corners of the crosspieces of each
then made another 2x4 ladder frame and attached the 1/2 in plywood shelves to it cutting out the corners where the legs will be
then slid the shelf down the legs to a preset higth and screwed them in
if its all screwed together you flip it over and have a 2'x8' bench with 3/4"top braced every 2' with a 1/2" plywood topped shelf halfway down
works good cost about 45$ per bench and will hold my engine or tranny just fine
then a sheet of 1/2 in plywood rip in half
took the 2'x8' tops and ran 2x4s lengthwise down them standing them on the 2"side
attached ends to them and crosses down them like a ladder 5 total including ends
10 2x4s 3' long in the corners of the crosspieces of each
then made another 2x4 ladder frame and attached the 1/2 in plywood shelves to it cutting out the corners where the legs will be
then slid the shelf down the legs to a preset higth and screwed them in
if its all screwed together you flip it over and have a 2'x8' bench with 3/4"top braced every 2' with a 1/2" plywood topped shelf halfway down
works good cost about 45$ per bench and will hold my engine or tranny just fine
#19
#20
I used a 1/2" sheet of plywood. Ripped in half for a top and a middle shelf. Used 2x4's for legs and supports. Lower plywood notched to clear legs at the corners and middle. Bolted to the wall studs, it's pretty secure. I added a square piece of 2x12 under one corner to help give my vice a solid base.
No plans, I just kind of threw it together. One thing I paid VERY careful attention to was to make the height exactly where I wanted.
Worked out so well I made four more. One I hung rollerized drawers under for small part storage. Another bench has a salvaged formica countertop which is nicer for carburetor building and such than plain plywood.
For the price they suit me better than anything else I've seen. There sure are nicer ones but they cost.
One I'm considering ripping out in favor of a draining type metal bench for transmission rebuilds. Or I may just transplant a metal top on to it. Haven't decided.
No plans, I just kind of threw it together. One thing I paid VERY careful attention to was to make the height exactly where I wanted.
Worked out so well I made four more. One I hung rollerized drawers under for small part storage. Another bench has a salvaged formica countertop which is nicer for carburetor building and such than plain plywood.
For the price they suit me better than anything else I've seen. There sure are nicer ones but they cost.
One I'm considering ripping out in favor of a draining type metal bench for transmission rebuilds. Or I may just transplant a metal top on to it. Haven't decided.
#21
I'm a bit late to this thread but recently saw several of these in a customers new shop: https://www.sevilleclassics.com/comm...bench_ultra_hd They're stout as can be, nicely finished right outta the box too.
IIRC customer bought them (and some accompanying open shelving too) from Sam's Club, under $200 each. Nice alternative to self-built if in a hurry.
IIRC customer bought them (and some accompanying open shelving too) from Sam's Club, under $200 each. Nice alternative to self-built if in a hurry.
#22
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago and Mt Carroll IL
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How large is your vise? And what kind of "anything" are you thinking of?
I've built a lot of workbenches over the years, and my preference is for using cast-off cabinets from kitchen remodels or other uses for the base, and a solid-core door for the top. The average door is 80" long, which is good for most home shops, but you can find longer ones, or butt two end to end and cover with Masonite or plastic laminate or sheet metal. If the bench is against a wall, I always lag-bolt it to the wall, which makes it that much more solid, especially if I've got a heavy vise on the top.
Right now, my main workbench is 108" long (9' x 3' solid-core door), cut down to 30" wide (so I can reach over it to the tool panels I have on the wall). The bench has an 85 lb swivel-base vise mounted on it. The bench base is an old laboratory bench I bought at an auction, which gives me nine drawers and a cabinet underneath for tool storage, and it's very solid.
Covering the top with sheet metal--either stainless (expensive) or galvanized of at least 18 gage thickness makes an excellent durable surface for automotive work or other metalworking, but not a good idea if you do any electrical troubleshooting or bench testing. In that case, either stick with a Masonite or plastic laminate top, or get a heavy rubber mat to put over the metal top when you play with electricity. I use a big 5/8" thick anti-fatigue floor mat for that purpose. Carpet would work too, but it gets dirty too easily IMO. Plus, the rubber mat stays in place and doesn't slide around, yet can be easily lifted off when working on greasy dirty non-electrical things.
Joe
I've built a lot of workbenches over the years, and my preference is for using cast-off cabinets from kitchen remodels or other uses for the base, and a solid-core door for the top. The average door is 80" long, which is good for most home shops, but you can find longer ones, or butt two end to end and cover with Masonite or plastic laminate or sheet metal. If the bench is against a wall, I always lag-bolt it to the wall, which makes it that much more solid, especially if I've got a heavy vise on the top.
Right now, my main workbench is 108" long (9' x 3' solid-core door), cut down to 30" wide (so I can reach over it to the tool panels I have on the wall). The bench has an 85 lb swivel-base vise mounted on it. The bench base is an old laboratory bench I bought at an auction, which gives me nine drawers and a cabinet underneath for tool storage, and it's very solid.
Covering the top with sheet metal--either stainless (expensive) or galvanized of at least 18 gage thickness makes an excellent durable surface for automotive work or other metalworking, but not a good idea if you do any electrical troubleshooting or bench testing. In that case, either stick with a Masonite or plastic laminate top, or get a heavy rubber mat to put over the metal top when you play with electricity. I use a big 5/8" thick anti-fatigue floor mat for that purpose. Carpet would work too, but it gets dirty too easily IMO. Plus, the rubber mat stays in place and doesn't slide around, yet can be easily lifted off when working on greasy dirty non-electrical things.
Joe
#23
#24
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About 5 years ago, I bought the remaining stock from a millwork shop at auction. Part of it was 50 3'0"x 6'8" SC Birch for 15 bucks each. New stock but pre-drilled for 2 3/4" bs entrance/deadbolt in each so I ripped the doors down to 30". These were real doors with dense cores and .125" veneer. Properly supported they would probably support a car. I've also used sc doors for counter substrates when doing custom laminates, they're dead flat and the hardwood veneer grabs the contact cement nicely.
#26
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Even on a better quality door, you should always seal all 6 sides (2 faces, 2 edges and top and bottom.
Keep a keen eye when looking too. Better doors have a slight bevel on the closing edge...you would want to put that edge against the wall side, high side up.
#27
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