I stole the wiring from a OBS F-150 that came equipped with a 3G. Makes it pretty much plug and play except for splicing that one green wire off of the original voltage regulator.

 

One thing I have noticed on mine though, the volt meter on my truck does not reflect the actual voltage being put out by the alternator. When I kicked on the heater, lights, and wipers the gauge goes down lower than 14 but the VOM I had connected at the battery showed full 14.79VDC coming in.

 

Kickin this back up to the top since a good majority of folks are begining to thaw out and will be once again roaming the junkyard

 

Could we get a how to section? Or maybe add this to the FAQ, great info

 

Just want to say thank you. Your write up made this a easy conversion. Wish I would have done it years ago. Power is no longer an issue.

 

Great write up. Just got to find time and get this done.

 

Thanks for all the information. I tried to complete this swap today and came across a few issues, perhaps someone who has finished this successfully can give me a few tips.
I pulled a 3g from a Taurus in the scrap yard and it tested good (my 1g had tested bad and had been putting out 11.6v/not charging the batteries enough to start). First problem I ran into was reclocking the 3g-- it moved maybe 20 degrees, then got stuck and I ended up having to tap it back to where I started with a wood block+hammer. Any tips on freeing it up?
I ended up connecting everything then bolting it in, not a long-term solution but I wanted to know if it would work.
Start up the truck and check the voltage, 11.6v on both my multimeter and the dash gauge just like the old, bench tested bad 1g. Very confused. I did re-use the alternator-starter solenoid cable and the old wire from that cable to the voltage regulator. I'm thinking that swapping to new cables and a fuse will fix it, is there anything else I should check? Waiting on a 175amp fuse+holder to come in the mail, sadly no one local had the holder. Thanks in advance for any help and to OP for the excellent write up.

 

So 93 n 94 F series 7.3 already have it ?

 

Sarco3. Breakout a test light and or a vom Y/W wire should have B+ voltage all the time. G/R will have voltage with the key on but not much 2-3 volts. The W/B I haven't measured. Large stud should have Battery voltage all the time. When running voltage should be above 14 volts. See where you are not seeing voltage.

 

I may be reading this wrong--

Are you using the stock regulator still or just the wire itself?

 

Just the wire from the alternator stud to the starter solenoid. Not the stock regulator, wish all this was something that easy/stupid!

@wtroger: Will check all those this weekend. I measured the voltage at the batteries (11.6v) and at the starter solenoid where the cable comes in from the alt (11.6v). The weird part is that the batteries read higher, around 12.4, with the truck off...

What exactly do you mean by B+ voltage?

 

B+ is battery voltage. You need the green/ red wire that went to the original voltage regulator extended to the new alternator. The yellow/white wire can be hooked to the big stud on the alternator. the white/black is just a loop from the S connector on the ivoltage regulator to the single spade connector on the alternator.

 

Yeah, and 92.5

 

Just sharing my experience, I just put one in my 89, picked up a 130 amp 8.25 spacing 3G from a 95 windstar. Did not have to grind or file anything, took the old pulley and shim off the 1G, took the old pulley off the 3G, put the shim on, then the pulley and torqued it down good, plenty of shaft sticking out of the nut, no need for loctite. used an extension, and had to re pin 1 wire in 1 plug for it to be plug and play, used a harness from a 95 7.3 truck with fusible links on the charge cable. Re-used the metric upper bolt, reused the belts, they fit fine. I did not have to cut a single wire, I did have to re-clock it though.

 

Removed due to inaccuracies.