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Bought a 6.0L with 212k miles...need some advice

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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Bought a 6.0L with 212k miles...need some advice

 
  #16  
Old 04-20-2012, 11:19 AM
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15* delta is max temp difference between Eng Oil Temp and Eng Coolant temps. EOT/ECT Get a Scangauge II or borrow one. Real peace of mind with SC II
This is checked after warming up the engine and running highway speeds straight and level for 5-10 minutes. Oil temp reads higher once warmed up. You can also check for head studs vs head bolts by looking just underneath the drivers side valve cover. You'll know when you see them.

Try Reese hitches on-line (shop around too) for an adjustable height hitch. You can get load distributing hitches and I use one with my toy hauler. Although my 06 Dually doesn't even touch the overload springs at 9K. Don't need sway control with a dually.

It's also recommended that you work the truck. Load it up, hook up the camper, tow a bobcat. If you look at servicing intervals extreme duty for oil changes includes driving daily less than 10 miles at a time. It's really not a daily driver unless used as a work truck. Your mileage my vary but don't expect good mileage. That's the nature of the beast.
 
  #17  
Old 04-20-2012, 11:30 AM
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and a five gallon bucket fits under the truck for the oil change

Originally Posted by armyman20057 View Post
I spent 60 on oil and a new filter last week from autozone. For the two fuel filters you're looking at 40 and a new air filter is around 50 bucks. These are close to prices I have seen online as well. I haven't personally changed my trans transfer or differentials as of yet so I can't speak on those. I would be curious to know if anyone knows off the top of their head. Also I seen you ask if you can change the oil yourself. I am a mechanic and I have changed the oil on lots of vehicles and I think the 6.0 is one of the easiest. I love the fact that the oil filter is on top. Makes for replacing it very simple. Also if you look on amazon there is a special socket for the fuel filters and oil filter for like 10 dollars. Instead of using a crescent wrench or something that will damage the plastic.

makes it soooo easy..
 
  #18  
Old 04-20-2012, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dlibson View Post
STC fitting is on the HPOP, not the turbo...
Ouch, caught me typing with my brain in neutral <----dunce hat (again).
 
  #19  
Old 04-20-2012, 10:37 PM
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Thank you so much for all the advice....keep them coming...

who else has over 200K....

Is it possible this struck went out this far with no issues?...

Today I pulled close to 10k# and it was a breeze. I noticed the turbo psi went up at times (what's the normal psi range when pulling loads?)....I had it on cruise control (one hour trip) ....it went around 14, less than 20..

For the first few miles I forgot to use the haul/tow control...right after i had it 'on' I noticed the the tranny do its thing..smooth all the way (what does it really do? after the tow/haul is on?)...wow..I think am falling in love with this truck.

Im changing fluids this weekend and eventually will follow up with all the advice given so far. Thank you again for all the info.

cla,cla,cla,cla,cla,cla,cla,cla,clac,,clac,clac,,, ,love it.
 
  #20  
Old 04-23-2012, 09:00 PM
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what size fuel tank do I have?

I got the scangauge2 today. Plug and play. awesome.

So what is exactly that II need to track/watch for again? ...
what is ECT EOT and delta mean?...


What temperature FWT/CWT does it need to be before I hit the road?


Also could anyone tell me what size fuel tank do I have?...super cab (extended cab) XLT 8' bed.

one more question, can I get the oil (only the oil,not the filters) at Advanced auto parts, Orailey's or NAPA... these are close to home. Ford dealer is about 25 miles each way.

and finally, what is the blue spring upgrade consist of?.

Thank you all for your help.
 
  #21  
Old 04-23-2012, 09:24 PM
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Only use ford filters the blue spring upgrade makes sure you have plenty of fuel pressure
 
  #22  
Old 04-23-2012, 09:35 PM
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i get my oil and motorcraft filters at advance the oil filter is 20 bucks
 
  #23  
Old 04-23-2012, 09:48 PM
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ECT= engine coolant temp
EOT= engine oil temp
Delta is the difference between the two.

Wal-mart often stocks filters for our trucks. Motorcraft and Fram. The Fram is ok if it has the patent #'s stamped on the filter base. Be sure you have the shorter Ford oil filter cap as mentioned earlier.

I usuially let my ECT (fWT) get up to 85 before leaving the driveway, and then go easy on her until it gets to 170+.

Here's a discription and some pics of my blue spring install:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ue-spring.html


Fuel capacity (2006) 29.0 gallons with 141.8, 156.2 wheelbase, 38.0 gallons with 137, 158 and 172.4 wheelbase.
 
  #24  
Old 04-24-2012, 11:47 PM
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O'reilly stocks the Motorcraft filters too...
 
  #25  
Old 11-13-2012, 02:30 PM
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Back in April I bought this truck and been watching the sgll l very closely ever since.

I have changed all fluids including gold antifreeze...also found a fuel leak. Fuel pressure regulator Fi was exchanged and leak stopped.
Fcm fluctuates from 48.5v to 49.5v
Vlt (alternator) is reading 13.6.
Had both batteries tested and they say this 3 year old batteries arevstill good.
Also did tranny fluid and change ll filters including motor oil. Now delta's are closer and haven't seen anything over 15 degrees difference.

However , I'm having cold starting issues. This morning was 49F and I had to cycle the key three times. To get it going....I knew it was colder than usual so that's why I cycled the key three times putting the batteries at 11v 11.6 ....it idled rough till it warmed up some... Also noticed some black smoke coming out the exhaust for a few seconds.
The last month or so the truck is stallin/jittering some when I hit 45/55mph. What do u think that is...injector going bad maybe?

I want to take the egr and clean it which by the way I wanted to ask you where I can buy
The tool to.take it out. Also where is the best place on line to buy OEM ford. Parts...I want to get a block heather cord and some o rings as well.

Truck runs great , I pull trailers and tractors and it seems to run better when so.. ...
I love it.
Any help realated to the symptoms mentioned above is gtreatly appreciated
 
  #26  
Old 11-13-2012, 02:54 PM
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no need for tool to pull EGR, after it is unbolted twist it so bolt hole are accessible to put a wire through them. make a handle with the wire and pull straight up. When i did mine not to long ago, I just twisted it as I said then a couple of light rocks while pulling and it came right out (no wire used).

side note: I have similar experience bought my truck w/ 204k in April 227k now. no MAJOR issues, a few minor but expected type parts to wear out with age. Did you ever get that OASIS report from dealer? Plus as I have been working on truck I've noticed a few bonus upgrades that were done.
 
  #27  
Old 11-13-2012, 07:26 PM
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If youve never pulled the egr valve its probly gunna b a pain to pull w your hand. I always use a crowsfoot pry bar. Its perfect. Do you get smoke while accelerating or just on start up? Any lack of power? Definitely get OASIS report from dealer. Youll probly learn that your trucks had some injectors already replaced. I was always worried about upgrading to the lastest 'flash' for my computer modules, got OASIS and my FICM TCM and PCM were done a year before i got the truck(3 yrs ago).
 
  #28  
Old 11-13-2012, 08:59 PM
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should I just go ahead and replace the EGR valve? or just clean it out and replace O rings.... at what point do they need replacement. Thank you all for the help.

also whats the PSI should read for your coolant cap...? (testing it)
 
  #29  
Old 11-13-2012, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Abram View Post
should I just go ahead and replace the EGR valve? or just clean it out and replace O rings.... at what point do they need replacement. Thank you all for the help.

also whats the PSI should read for your coolant cap...? (testing it)
IMHO just cleaning should do the trick. After cleaning check that it does not stick when you move the "plunger." The real "need" to change the egr is when the electronics become nonoperational. Reality though is when it becomes electrically nonoperational you have a free EGR delete.
 
  #30  
Old 11-13-2012, 11:36 PM
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Coolant cap should hold pressure up to 16psi, and maybe fail at 19psi? I don't remember the fail point, but 16psi is where it should hold. If you haven't already, get on youtube and watch videos from powerstrokehelp.com! That guy is awesome and helpful and has videos about almost EVERYTHING related to this engine. And also he has a couple good videos specifically about the coolant cap. Watch the $5 part that will save your truck or something like that, and the volcano effect.
 

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