Nope. Plus you have to run different rods, like Mopar 360's bushed down. Then there's the question of "will the transmission work?"

Perry - Please enlighten us on why you are considering this. You obviously know something we don't.

 

I smell an adapter, or a 1973 FMX 400.

 

Thanx for your fast responses, Glad my insomnia isn't as bad as yours. My project is to put my 78 f350 on a 89 F350 chassis. Thee reason involves shorter wheel base, sway bars and parts availability options. I've been forced into retirement and I'll be using this unit to pull a 32' 5th wheel RV for about 35 - 50,000 miles over 3 years.
Originally I was going to use my 400 (sentimental reasons) and mate it to a zf 42 that I had attached to a buggered 460. I then read your thread and realized that this was somewhat of an exotic idea and I didn't want to take a chance with reliability issues or break downs, especially if it happens in an area where the most popular word is "wwhaat". I already have a 351w and zf combination from my 89 which is fuel injected, which is something I wanted to do with the 400.
Going this way really saves me money which is in short supply around here. So I gave it a thought of putting the 400 crank into the 351w so that I could gain back the torque I'll lose using the 351w. 18 years ago, the last time I did a project, stroking a 351 involved ordering a 400 AMS raw forging and having it cut to fit the 351w. I figured that having this crank would save me some scratch as long as the crank would be able to recieve the front shaft from the zf 42. But if theres a crank kit that actually will be a true replacement including the flywheel end of it I agree that I'll be better off with it. I guess my next step for me is to contact Scat and find out the specs to see what my options are, plus the prices sound a lot better now than they were 18 years ago.
Thanx again for the info, it's been a blessing. I'm like a broken clock, there are times when I'm right but it seems like it's only twice a day.

 

The internal concentric slave of a Windsor pattern ZF precludes adapting a mechanical setup like Gary did.
What are you going to do to get a hydraulic pedal assembly into a '78 cab?

I'm sure this is well known, but I've never looked into it...

 

I've keeping the 89s cab around until I'm completely done, that way if I see that it's easier to change pedals I'll just do that. The 89 dash has controls that are easier for me to operate and it's not that hard for me to adapt my gauges, my metal fab skills are strong, plus I'm keeping the 89 wiring harness. That way I'm not figuring how to splice old into new. Less thinking, less mistakes, less stress and that keeps the girlfriend happy. Me happy then to. I'm trying to keep a hard job easy, that should keep you laughing for a while. Got to work on stripping and cutting up deck, buyer pulled a no show yesterday and won't answer or return calls. Guess he loses his $50 deposit. back after 6 mst.

 

Sounds like quite a project, so you sure don't need the complications of putting a 400 crank in a W block. Try Jegs or one of those for a stroker kit as well as Scat. Good luck!

 

Thanx for the leads and info Gary and ArdWrknTrk, I really like the idea that scat sells the rotating assembly in a kit and ballanced. That way I'm not chasing & matching parts and I won't have to worry about the machine shops here screwing up. I'm old school and only trust commercial engine shops to work on my block. If it's not good enough for a tow truck it aint for me. I've got a thread in the dentside forum under "retirement project" and update once a week. I work outside & have to deal with weather/health issues. Shoulda quit smokin 35 years ago, I'd LoL but it makes me cough. Keep up the projects, I like looking in on dads truck. Thank you again guys.
I'll put pics in my library when I get to the pedal, clutch, gas and brakes issues, about 2 weeks away.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Found a coolant leak today. One of the Mopar spring clamps apparently isn't tight enough on the heater hose and it was leaking slightly. Given that I replaced all 6 of those clamps on the heater hoses - 6 because of the shutoff valve.

And, I got the over-the-top, literally, tarp installed with 20 rubber bungee cords, 4 ratchet straps, and half a roll of duct tape. (In the attached picture there are just three straps, but we added one and adjusted the back one after taking the picture.) So, all in all there are 8 ratchet straps holding the load in and the tarps down - 4 under the top tarp criss-crossed from the stake pockets, and 4 from the frame on each side and over the top tarp.

I took it for a drive today and my wife followed in her car so she could check out each side. Everything was good with exception that we needed the 4th strap just above the axle to keep the tarp from flapping there. And, the truck handles the load very well even with the wind gusting to 40 MPH. However, that wind also requires the engine to work a bit harder as the vacuum was down significantly. Luckily the wind is to drop tonight and tomorrow should be fairly calm.

We'll be off early in the morn and y'all will have to hold the fort for a fortnight. (If you don't know what that is ask Chris.) I'll try to post after we reach the destinations, the first of which is Nashville for tomorrow, then Delawhere on Friday. Ciao.

 

Shoot, just jump on some of these mustang forums and look at the classifieds. The Corral or Dead Horses are a couple of good ones. You can buy stroker motors or all the parts necessary to build whatever you want at flea market prices. So I don't even see the point in buying scat or whoever new.

 

Absolutely Bruno.
But a lot of people don't trust raced parts, or the unknown person that built those engines.
It seems that Perry is looking to build a torquer, but a balanced rotating assembly is a balanced rotating assembly.

 

Wow great write up, been reading every thread I can about the 400/zf swap the last 6 months and this one is by far the most detailed.

With that being said whatever happened to having those adapters made? I'm definitely interested in picking one up - just for spline engagement peace of mind

Was there ever a concise list of parts for this swap? at least the swap done in this thread, I understand there are a few ways to go about it but with my TMI build I would like to get as much spline engagement as possible. In addition I would like to reuse as many parts from my current 400 as possible.. everything has less than 1500 miles on it since the frame off and there are some expensive parts on here that I would rather re-use.. centerforce clutch, flywheel, starter etc etc..

I recently picked up a 460 zf-5 and will be swapping out the NP435 in my Early Bronco (yes its stuffed in there) for the ZF so would like to get my parts together very soon. I will be re-using the zf-5 external hydraulic clutch setup as well if that makes a difference... thanks again for the detailed write up!

 

Glad to help. There haven't been any more of the adapters made, although I could provide you with the drawings if you want to have one made locally.

As for a parts list, there hasn't been one put together because it depends on the individual's starting point. In my case I was using a 351M flywheel which was drilled for the smaller pressure plate so I had to find a small 460 clutch disc to fit in it. But if you are starting with a 400 flywheel then you can go with the larger pressure plate and, therefore, the larger clutch disc. But, you will need:

• The 460 version of the ZF5
• A pressure plate that works with your 351M or 400's flywheel
• A clutch for a 460 (because the 460's clutches had the larger splines) that will fit under your pressure plate
• The adapter to space the flywheel back
• 7/16-20x1.375 place bolts to hold the adapter and flywheel to the crank. I got mine from Wilson Garner, and the quote is available via a link below the picture of the throwout bearing
• A pilot bearing for a ZF's input shaft
• Move the ring gear on the flywheel forward as far as it will go
• Use a 351W auto trans starter as it has the longest throw
• A throwout bearing that will work with the release arm. I used the Dodge unit show in the picture below
• Either headers to clear the ZF on the passenger's side or a groove ground in the ZF's meaty flange that will let you get an Allen wrench on the inside bolt on the passenger's side. And, if you use the exhaust manifolds you will need to remove the inside stud on the passenger's side exhaust manifold and replace it with an socket-headed cap screw

Hope that helps.



https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1345733637

 

Ah indeed. thanks so much. If it's not too much trouble to send over the drawings I'm sure I can find someone in the denver area to make a spacer.

So using the 400's stock exhaust manifolds I will have to replace the stud with a socket cap on the passenger side.. I wonder If I will have any other clearance issues on an early bronco. Guess I will find out

 

Hadn't thought about an early Bronco's clearance. Good question! I was told that I couldn't use factory manifolds, that I'd have to use headers. But, if headers clear the tranny better then you will be better off with factory manifolds as they are obviously hugging the tranny closer.

It'll take me a bit to pull the file. It is currently in TurboCAD format, but I can send it as a pdf of the drawings.