I plan on changing out my heater core, thermostat, and all my coolant friday. I have all the supplies I need. My biggest question is this, for those who have replaced your heater core (mine has a small leak) I need to remove the 2 hoses on the firewall side. It look very hard to get my hands in there and also to even see the clips i have to remove from the core tubes. So how did you remove the hoses? Or can they be cut off and enough length left to clamp it? I would prefer to remove it the proper way, and reinstall it. It just getting in there and seeing where to compress the 2 tabs etc to remove the hoses. I have the link to the removal of the lines but just would like some experience point of view. thanks Jeff

 

It's a pain in the a$$ . Take a pilars whatever type u comfortable with and wiggle the clips down a but maybe 4 or 5 inches ... Then a took a heat gun for a few mins to the hoses where they meet the firewall and wiggle the heck out of them and pull too that helps lol I suggest you have a beer handy cause it sucks ... The beer motivates

 

Hear ya go.Napa sells the tool.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...with-pics.html

 

They suck. When I replaced the heater core lines, I simply snapped the black fitting that holds white clip in and slid the hose off. Even then, it was still difficult because the o-rings were stuck to the core. Once you have the clips pushed in, twist the hose, it'll help break the seal. Since you'll probably be laying on top of the engine to do this, lay a piece of plywood on top of your engine. Your chest will appreciate it. When you go to reinstall them, a dab of oil or wd-40 on the o-rings will make reinstalling them easier.

 

This link is part of the other link posted. Look at it and get the tools from the parts store. They are affordable!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ore-hoses.html

 

So as a fail safe to have if I have problems getting them off will cutting the hose at the crimp and band clamping to the new heater core work fine? I was thinking of adding some permatex inside the tube a little then clamping if I go that route. I don't want to spend all day on this part. Im sure this is the hardest part of the entire job. As long as the band clamps can hold the coolant in and not leak i'm happy if i need to do that. thanks

 

That should work, but might drip since they're not made for that. Plus do you really wanna try tightening a hose clamp back there??

Napa sells adapters that have the quick connect on one end and a barb on the other. Break the old ones to get them off and put these on in their place. One is 3/4" and the other is 5/8" I think they go by the tube size on the heater core. http://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...RecType%3aA%29 http://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...RecType%3aA%29

 

hopefully I can get these connectors at my NAPA near my house. It sure is a tight place to get into to remove the hoses. Thanks for the info, ill follow up after the job is done. Im also replacing the degass bottle, t-stat & housing and total flush and refill with concentrated pre charged Coolant from fleet pride. (I do have plenty of distilled water to flush with etc.)

 

Break the heater core tubes and pull the hoses out. Connectors are easy once you can reach them.

 

[QUOTE=critterf1;11733185]Break the heater core tubes and pull the hoses out. Connectors are easy once you can reach them.[/QUOTE

I have to agree with this one. I removed my heater core by fiddling with the tabs with pliars. The Chilton says to discard the clips, but none of the parts stores in my area had them. Being that I was really wanting my truck back on the road asap, I cut the hose ends off as close to the sleeve as possible and used the wide band over the counter clamps. Just make sure the clamp is on straight and either on or past the QDC ridge on the new heater core tubes. Yuo can either see the clamps or touch them, not both at the same time.
I spent more time trying to take the hoses off, trying to keep the clips than the rest of the removal took. Knowing now what I didnt then, CUt or break the core tubes and deal with the QDC's where you can at least see 'em.
I had to pull the MAP sensor off the ac box to get my arm in and the intercooler tube on that side. Inside the cab, just take off the glove box, and blend door mechanism and then its base. The base of it has "fingers" on it that keep the core tubes up against the firewall.
Have a few beers and some fun!

 

Ok ladies and Gents i am having an issue and this forum has been very helpful so far.. i have a coolant leak and coolant smell in my cab as well nothing is leaking inside the cab so i check arould see leakage passenger side wheel well.. so i check around the engine feel around a lil bit to check for any damage to the gaskets or water pump i find nothing around there the leak is coming from some where close to where the heater core is or at least i think it is ... i will post up some pics on this soon just to show u guys whats wrong but just in case it is the heater core is there away to bypass it til i could fix the issue with the heater core.. if any?

thanks guys in advance

F250 7.3 power-stroke Diesel 2001 no engine mods just lifted... my dad saved it from some nut ball that crashed the poor thing it was sitting for 2yrs i check it out before i started driving no issues til now

 

Welcom Robert, You are with the best forum on thw web IMHO.

SOunds like the heater core to me. Yuo will have no antifreeze in the cab, it drains at the rear of the Passenger wheel well. Open your glove box and push in the sides to allow it to swing completely down. You will see a 8x8 inch plate with serews around it. Take it off, there is the heater core. You will notine the lovely puddle of coolant at the bottom.
It is easier than it looks to replace. Have fun with the disconnects!

Doug

 

If you can't get the quick disconnects to release, or just get fed up with them, you can simply cut them off and get replacement ones to clamp on at napa. As for the bypass, you could disconnect the heater hoses and install caps on the connections, or a length of hose between the two. I'd say cut and install a ball valve in one of the lines, but I can't remember which one is the send and which is the return.

 

For $18, I bought, and have received this tool:

Amazon.com: HEATER HOSE DISCONNECT TOOL--FORD & CHRY.: Automotive

I haven't removed it from the packaging and tried it yet, though. However, it looks like a pretty good-quality product, especially for the price.

Not crazy about the idea of tugging on heater core connections.

 

do you have to take the dash out to get the heater core out?