Extra factory hitch wirings already under 2012 F350 bed? See photo
#1
Extra factory hitch wirings already under 2012 F350 bed? See photo
I ordered a "Y" kind of hitch wiring from e-trailer web site to put on driver side bed wall for 7 pin connector. It will use the bumper connector for connection.
Great, I now realized that I need to put cigarette lighter socket in bed too as well LED lights in bed for easy seeing at night under hard cover. I try not to slice any wirings. So, I found some extra connectors (see 2 green & 6 blue pin covers) on the driver side of bed near spare tire. Do you know what they are? Hitch wiring? Any links I can use? I can't find them in Google.
I do not have 5th Wheel prep kit from factory.
Great, I now realized that I need to put cigarette lighter socket in bed too as well LED lights in bed for easy seeing at night under hard cover. I try not to slice any wirings. So, I found some extra connectors (see 2 green & 6 blue pin covers) on the driver side of bed near spare tire. Do you know what they are? Hitch wiring? Any links I can use? I can't find them in Google.
I do not have 5th Wheel prep kit from factory.
#2
#3
I ordered a "Y" kind of hitch wiring from e-trailer web site to put on driver side bed wall for 7 pin connector. It will use the bumper connector for connection.
Great, I now realized that I need to put cigarette lighter socket in bed too as well LED lights in bed for easy seeing at night under hard cover. I try not to slice any wirings. So, I found some extra connectors (see 2 green & 6 blue pin covers) on the driver side of bed near spare tire. Do you know what they are? Hitch wiring? Any links I can use? I can't find them in Google.
I do not have 5th Wheel prep kit from factory.
Great, I now realized that I need to put cigarette lighter socket in bed too as well LED lights in bed for easy seeing at night under hard cover. I try not to slice any wirings. So, I found some extra connectors (see 2 green & 6 blue pin covers) on the driver side of bed near spare tire. Do you know what they are? Hitch wiring? Any links I can use? I can't find them in Google.
I do not have 5th Wheel prep kit from factory.
#4
#5
There should be a harness that can be purchased from ford parts that simply plugs in there and gives you a 7-pin socket in your bed. Basically it's the Y thing you already bought so you should take it back.
Cig lighter socket deal can be sourced from under the rear seat, it will always have power even without the key in.
LED lights can be powered from the trailer charge circuit or an up fitter.
Cig lighter socket deal can be sourced from under the rear seat, it will always have power even without the key in.
LED lights can be powered from the trailer charge circuit or an up fitter.
#6
There should be a harness that can be purchased from ford parts that simply plugs in there and gives you a 7-pin socket in your bed. Basically it's the Y thing you already bought so you should take it back.
Cig lighter socket deal can be sourced from under the rear seat, it will always have power even without the key in.
LED lights can be powered from the trailer charge circuit or an up fitter.
Cig lighter socket deal can be sourced from under the rear seat, it will always have power even without the key in.
LED lights can be powered from the trailer charge circuit or an up fitter.
Remember I want to avoid slicing truck's wiring. So, I think I ll go ahead use the "Y" cable from e-trailer. And get bare bone plug from Ford or local auto part store and use it only for the LED light. That is, whenever I press remote unlock, the LED will light as long as the markers are on. No need to use switch.
And wiring to the back left seat cig light (guess I ll have to slice the wire?) to the bed. Is there other plug in I can use without slicing for the bed cig light?
#7
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Just a suggestion and not to contradict Rich...but...In the great white north/salt belt quick taps or scotch locks are frowned upon up here. They more or less cut into the wire casing too. That wouldn’t be bad if they sealed up water tight once closed down over the wire. Down south or out west you can get away with them. We have to seal things up tight here in NY or you'll be redoing it after one winter Butt splices and crimp on terminals now come with a shrink tube feature. Whereas the plastic that encases the terminal is actually shrink tube. Crimp, heat and seal good to go. Don’t over crimp them and bite through the shrink tube. NAPA carries them as "weather tight" crimp ons or Stake ons. AMP has them too. After making that connection I put regular shrink tube over all of it. The shrink tube with the glue inside works the best. Also, I find the factory connectors/harnesses, if available, are far superior in quality compared to the offshore crap even though they’re Mexican.
#11
Just a suggestion and not to contradict Rich...but...In the great white north/salt belt quick taps or scotch locks are frowned upon up here. They more or less cut into the wire casing too. That wouldn’t be bad if they sealed up water tight once closed down over the wire. Down south or out west you can get away with them. We have to seal things up tight here in NY or you'll be redoing it after one winter Butt splices and crimp on terminals now come with a shrink tube feature. Whereas the plastic that encases the terminal is actually shrink tube. Crimp, heat and seal good to go. Don’t over crimp them and bite through the shrink tube. NAPA carries them as "weather tight" crimp ons or Stake ons. AMP has them too. After making that connection I put regular shrink tube over all of it. The shrink tube with the glue inside works the best. Also, I find the factory connectors/harnesses, if available, are far superior in quality compared to the offshore crap even though they’re Mexican.
I just looked at the truck. I can purchase "Y" cigarette light adapter (two females and one male) from Radio Shack and will not need to tap or slice the truck wires to be used in rear seat cigarette socket.
Great.
But how do I route wire from bed to the inside of the truck. I see there are two covers. One is soft on the bed front wall and one is stiff behind bed front wall to rear seats. The biggest problem is how to route wire inside the truck's back wall which will go to rear seat on driver side.
Taking bed out temporary would help to manage the stiff cover for routing but it is lot of work. How can I drill that one and make sure it is waterproof from raining?
Or maybe I should route the 12v wiring directly to the engine fuse box area? If so, exactly where are the free connections? If using up fitter connections, will it work without key in ignitor?
Suggestions?
#12
I've been dealing with lot of 12V hookups and beware that lot of those splitters are so cheap that they will slide off the socket with the truck vibration and disconnect. The best working for me was 4-socket with pigtail plug where the weight of the extensions would not affect the main plug. Than you have to calculate load.
LED lights take next to nothing, but real cigarette lighter not only take lot of current, but gets pretty hot.
Than I have triple 200 amp plugs for my toys under the bed of F450.
LED lights take next to nothing, but real cigarette lighter not only take lot of current, but gets pretty hot.
Than I have triple 200 amp plugs for my toys under the bed of F450.
#13
I've been dealing with lot of 12V hookups and beware that lot of those splitters are so cheap that they will slide off the socket with the truck vibration and disconnect. The best working for me was 4-socket with pigtail plug where the weight of the extensions would not affect the main plug. Than you have to calculate load.
LED lights take next to nothing, but real cigarette lighter not only take lot of current, but gets pretty hot.
Than I have triple 200 amp plugs for my toys under the bed of F450.
LED lights take next to nothing, but real cigarette lighter not only take lot of current, but gets pretty hot.
Than I have triple 200 amp plugs for my toys under the bed of F450.
#14
Wherever you decide to source your power for the lighter socket, you can run the wire though a pass thru by the front steering column, or there are rubber plugs under the floor carpet. Then you can run the wire along the inside of the frame rail to the back. When you come up into the bed, you can fish the wire up through those holes in the four corners and exit right under the bed rail.
You could solder right onto the 12v socket under the rear seat. You could use an up fitter switch which has the power feeds under the steering column. You could also install a fused line right to the + on the truck battery, the ground (-) can be achieved anywhere but it would be good for it to be dry.
12 gauge Romex works great because it is rigid and likes to stay in place when you tie it but can be hard to work with in tight spaces. It's easy to find 10-12 gauge wire in spools too.
I'm no expert so I hope that everybody will correct anything I type here that does not make sense....
You could solder right onto the 12v socket under the rear seat. You could use an up fitter switch which has the power feeds under the steering column. You could also install a fused line right to the + on the truck battery, the ground (-) can be achieved anywhere but it would be good for it to be dry.
12 gauge Romex works great because it is rigid and likes to stay in place when you tie it but can be hard to work with in tight spaces. It's easy to find 10-12 gauge wire in spools too.
I'm no expert so I hope that everybody will correct anything I type here that does not make sense....
#15
Just a suggestion and not to contradict Rich...but...In the great white north/salt belt quick taps or scotch locks are frowned upon up here. They more or less cut into the wire casing too. That wouldn’t be bad if they sealed up water tight once closed down over the wire. Down south or out west you can get away with them. We have to seal things up tight here in NY or you'll be redoing it after one winter Butt splices and crimp on terminals now come with a shrink tube feature. Whereas the plastic that encases the terminal is actually shrink tube. Crimp, heat and seal good to go. Don’t over crimp them and bite through the shrink tube. NAPA carries them as "weather tight" crimp ons or Stake ons. AMP has them too. After making that connection I put regular shrink tube over all of it. The shrink tube with the glue inside works the best. Also, I find the factory connectors/harnesses, if available, are far superior in quality compared to the offshore crap even though they’re Mexican.