1999 to 2016 Super Duty 1999 to 2016 Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 Super Duty with diesel V8 and gas V8 and V10 engines
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Extra factory hitch wirings already under 2012 F350 bed? See photo

  #1  
Old 04-17-2012, 07:53 PM
nswilliams's Avatar
nswilliams
nswilliams is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Extra factory hitch wirings already under 2012 F350 bed? See photo

I ordered a "Y" kind of hitch wiring from e-trailer web site to put on driver side bed wall for 7 pin connector. It will use the bumper connector for connection.

Great, I now realized that I need to put cigarette lighter socket in bed too as well LED lights in bed for easy seeing at night under hard cover. I try not to slice any wirings. So, I found some extra connectors (see 2 green & 6 blue pin covers) on the driver side of bed near spare tire. Do you know what they are? Hitch wiring? Any links I can use? I can't find them in Google.

I do not have 5th Wheel prep kit from factory.

 
  #2  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:59 PM
Kajtek1's Avatar
Kajtek1
Kajtek1 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: CA Bay Area
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Even my 99 model did not have trailer charging wire hooked up to the plug it come from the factory, the wire was there capped off as in the era they did not use quick plugs.
So my guess is that it is charging wire and maybe back up wire.
 
  #3  
Old 04-17-2012, 09:08 PM
B&LLandscaping's Avatar
B&LLandscaping
B&LLandscaping is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by nswilliams
I ordered a "Y" kind of hitch wiring from e-trailer web site to put on driver side bed wall for 7 pin connector. It will use the bumper connector for connection.

Great, I now realized that I need to put cigarette lighter socket in bed too as well LED lights in bed for easy seeing at night under hard cover. I try not to slice any wirings. So, I found some extra connectors (see 2 green & 6 blue pin covers) on the driver side of bed near spare tire. Do you know what they are? Hitch wiring? Any links I can use? I can't find them in Google.

I do not have 5th Wheel prep kit from factory.

I'm pretty sure those are the connectors I used for adding a second trailer wiring outlet in the box.
 
  #4  
Old 04-18-2012, 04:48 AM
nswilliams's Avatar
nswilliams
nswilliams is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by B&LLandscaping
I'm pretty sure those are the connectors I used for adding a second trailer wiring outlet in the box.
Great. Do you know pin assignments? Or any place that sells end wiring kit?
 
  #5  
Old 04-18-2012, 06:46 AM
ruschejj's Avatar
ruschejj
ruschejj is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Greenwood, SC
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
There should be a harness that can be purchased from ford parts that simply plugs in there and gives you a 7-pin socket in your bed. Basically it's the Y thing you already bought so you should take it back.

Cig lighter socket deal can be sourced from under the rear seat, it will always have power even without the key in.

LED lights can be powered from the trailer charge circuit or an up fitter.
 
  #6  
Old 04-18-2012, 06:57 AM
nswilliams's Avatar
nswilliams
nswilliams is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ruschejj
There should be a harness that can be purchased from ford parts that simply plugs in there and gives you a 7-pin socket in your bed. Basically it's the Y thing you already bought so you should take it back.

Cig lighter socket deal can be sourced from under the rear seat, it will always have power even without the key in.

LED lights can be powered from the trailer charge circuit or an up fitter.
Thanks!

Remember I want to avoid slicing truck's wiring. So, I think I ll go ahead use the "Y" cable from e-trailer. And get bare bone plug from Ford or local auto part store and use it only for the LED light. That is, whenever I press remote unlock, the LED will light as long as the markers are on. No need to use switch.

And wiring to the back left seat cig light (guess I ll have to slice the wire?) to the bed. Is there other plug in I can use without slicing for the bed cig light?
 
  #7  
Old 04-18-2012, 08:52 AM
richsoucie's Avatar
richsoucie
richsoucie is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
use quick taps then you wont have to cut the wire
 
  #8  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:26 AM
B&LLandscaping's Avatar
B&LLandscaping
B&LLandscaping is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I don't know the pin assignments, it's plug and play.

The Ford part number for the second wiring outlet is BC3Z-13A576-A. It's a complete kit to install a second trailer plug in the box for a 5th wheel application. I'm not sure if that helps you or not for what you're trying to do.
 
  #9  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:59 AM
nswilliams's Avatar
nswilliams
nswilliams is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great. That part number is exactly what I need. I just ordered this from partsguyed.com and I will return the "Y" cable to etrailer.com. And I plan to wire from rear seat cig light to the bed cig light and add switch for LED so I can use light at anytime.
 
  #10  
Old 04-18-2012, 11:03 AM
droldsmorland's Avatar
droldsmorland
droldsmorland is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Land of Taxes
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Just a suggestion and not to contradict Rich...but...In the great white north/salt belt quick taps or scotch locks are frowned upon up here. They more or less cut into the wire casing too. That wouldn’t be bad if they sealed up water tight once closed down over the wire. Down south or out west you can get away with them. We have to seal things up tight here in NY or you'll be redoing it after one winter Butt splices and crimp on terminals now come with a shrink tube feature. Whereas the plastic that encases the terminal is actually shrink tube. Crimp, heat and seal good to go. Don’t over crimp them and bite through the shrink tube. NAPA carries them as "weather tight" crimp ons or Stake ons. AMP has them too. After making that connection I put regular shrink tube over all of it. The shrink tube with the glue inside works the best. Also, I find the factory connectors/harnesses, if available, are far superior in quality compared to the offshore crap even though they’re Mexican.
 
  #11  
Old 04-18-2012, 04:39 PM
nswilliams's Avatar
nswilliams
nswilliams is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Just a suggestion and not to contradict Rich...but...In the great white north/salt belt quick taps or scotch locks are frowned upon up here. They more or less cut into the wire casing too. That wouldn’t be bad if they sealed up water tight once closed down over the wire. Down south or out west you can get away with them. We have to seal things up tight here in NY or you'll be redoing it after one winter Butt splices and crimp on terminals now come with a shrink tube feature. Whereas the plastic that encases the terminal is actually shrink tube. Crimp, heat and seal good to go. Don’t over crimp them and bite through the shrink tube. NAPA carries them as "weather tight" crimp ons or Stake ons. AMP has them too. After making that connection I put regular shrink tube over all of it. The shrink tube with the glue inside works the best. Also, I find the factory connectors/harnesses, if available, are far superior in quality compared to the offshore crap even though they’re Mexican.
My goal: Add cigarette socket -and- LED lights around the bed for night view.

I just looked at the truck. I can purchase "Y" cigarette light adapter (two females and one male) from Radio Shack and will not need to tap or slice the truck wires to be used in rear seat cigarette socket.

Great.

But how do I route wire from bed to the inside of the truck. I see there are two covers. One is soft on the bed front wall and one is stiff behind bed front wall to rear seats. The biggest problem is how to route wire inside the truck's back wall which will go to rear seat on driver side.

Taking bed out temporary would help to manage the stiff cover for routing but it is lot of work. How can I drill that one and make sure it is waterproof from raining?

Or maybe I should route the 12v wiring directly to the engine fuse box area? If so, exactly where are the free connections? If using up fitter connections, will it work without key in ignitor?

Suggestions?
 
  #12  
Old 04-18-2012, 05:43 PM
Kajtek1's Avatar
Kajtek1
Kajtek1 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: CA Bay Area
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I've been dealing with lot of 12V hookups and beware that lot of those splitters are so cheap that they will slide off the socket with the truck vibration and disconnect. The best working for me was 4-socket with pigtail plug where the weight of the extensions would not affect the main plug. Than you have to calculate load.
LED lights take next to nothing, but real cigarette lighter not only take lot of current, but gets pretty hot.
Than I have triple 200 amp plugs for my toys under the bed of F450.
 
  #13  
Old 04-18-2012, 05:52 PM
nswilliams's Avatar
nswilliams
nswilliams is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bowie, MD
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Kajtek1
I've been dealing with lot of 12V hookups and beware that lot of those splitters are so cheap that they will slide off the socket with the truck vibration and disconnect. The best working for me was 4-socket with pigtail plug where the weight of the extensions would not affect the main plug. Than you have to calculate load.
LED lights take next to nothing, but real cigarette lighter not only take lot of current, but gets pretty hot.
Than I have triple 200 amp plugs for my toys under the bed of F450.
Where would you connect the bed cigarette socket to? Upfitter wires in engine area? If to rear seats, how?
 
  #14  
Old 04-18-2012, 07:07 PM
ruschejj's Avatar
ruschejj
ruschejj is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Greenwood, SC
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Wherever you decide to source your power for the lighter socket, you can run the wire though a pass thru by the front steering column, or there are rubber plugs under the floor carpet. Then you can run the wire along the inside of the frame rail to the back. When you come up into the bed, you can fish the wire up through those holes in the four corners and exit right under the bed rail.

You could solder right onto the 12v socket under the rear seat. You could use an up fitter switch which has the power feeds under the steering column. You could also install a fused line right to the + on the truck battery, the ground (-) can be achieved anywhere but it would be good for it to be dry.

12 gauge Romex works great because it is rigid and likes to stay in place when you tie it but can be hard to work with in tight spaces. It's easy to find 10-12 gauge wire in spools too.

I'm no expert so I hope that everybody will correct anything I type here that does not make sense....
 
  #15  
Old 04-19-2012, 12:05 AM
richsoucie's Avatar
richsoucie
richsoucie is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Just a suggestion and not to contradict Rich...but...In the great white north/salt belt quick taps or scotch locks are frowned upon up here. They more or less cut into the wire casing too. That wouldn’t be bad if they sealed up water tight once closed down over the wire. Down south or out west you can get away with them. We have to seal things up tight here in NY or you'll be redoing it after one winter Butt splices and crimp on terminals now come with a shrink tube feature. Whereas the plastic that encases the terminal is actually shrink tube. Crimp, heat and seal good to go. Don’t over crimp them and bite through the shrink tube. NAPA carries them as "weather tight" crimp ons or Stake ons. AMP has them too. After making that connection I put regular shrink tube over all of it. The shrink tube with the glue inside works the best. Also, I find the factory connectors/harnesses, if available, are far superior in quality compared to the offshore crap even though they’re Mexican.
i always fill them with silicone before i crimp them on and wrap them in electrical tape i am in massachusetts and learned early on that they dont do well by themselves had to replace all the wiring on my running lights i have along the bottom of the cab. but they seem to do well if you fill with silicone first. been there for about 5 years
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Extra factory hitch wirings already under 2012 F350 bed? See photo



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:36 AM.