So I got this ranger with 389,999 miles on it an there was a lot wrong with it but I got it all fixed up now. Wanted to get most of the stuff done before I started posting.

So here's what's left. I disassembled and cleaned the entire top end, iac, throttle body, both intake manifolds, everything. Did spark plugs, wires and replaced PVC valve. It purrs now, but it purrs too much I guess.

It idles at 980-1050 at idle. When I'm driving it stays at about 1500-1800 until I come to a stop then back to 980-1050.

And.. When I filled up today is started leaking from somewhere around the top of the tank. I'm sure it's the filler neck leaking cause it stopped after about a quart leaked out.

And I have P1443 evap control valve low or no flow.

Where do I start?

 

Don't have an answer to your question but if you don't have evidence of the timing belt being changed in the last 70 or 80k, I'd definitely do that and the water pump while youre at it.
I gave my 97 2.3/2wd to an employee over a year ago and he's working toward 300k, they last forever if maintained. There's a guy on here who has 414k on his the last time I checked, might be a V6 though.

 

I think I would start with the filler neck - leaking fuel is never a good thing - especially at today's prices...

 

Agreed. Any idea where the leak could be? Just trying to get good info before I crawl under there.

 

Judging from your description, I'd probably start at where the filler tube connects to the tank then work my way up...

 

Roger Wilco

 

your idling issue sounds like a vaccum leak to me, sometimes they are tough to find. could possibly be a idle air control valve issue though.

 

Also, an evap code can be caused by a vacuum leak in the evap lines, which are connected to a vacuum source.

My Dad's '96 Ranger is a little over 364,000 miles. It has been very trouble free over the years.

Some trouble areas though, most are covered above, any vehicle with high mileage will often have vacuum leaks, bad gaskets, etc. The timing belt needs to be changed. Its not an interference engine, so if the belt breaks it won't cause any bent valves, but it will still leave you stranded. Make sure you replace ALL the fluids, not just the oil. The power steering takes MerconV ATF, if it gets too old the seals tend to go bad, resulting in whining, and will eventually destroy the rack and pinion, so replae that by disconnecting the return line and turning the wheel to its limits while adding new fluid to the reservoir. Try not to let air get in, it is a pain to get out. The M5OD manual trans needs regular fluid changes, roughly every 60,000 miles. It takes MerconV as well, not gear oil. Replace the fluid in the diffs, the manual will tell the correct fluids for everything. Don't use any special oil, high mileage oil has seal conditioners that make seals swell, an ill attempt at making old leak seals reseal, but in reality all it does is make them soft, so they wear out faster, just using regular motor oil of the factory specs (5W30) is the best protection. You can use a synthetic if you like, just make sure you don't change the oil to a heavier weight. All to many people do so with the thinking that as the engine wears the clearances between the moving parts increase. Some do, but the critical parts, the bearings namely, do not significantly wear over time. The lifters and stuff can wear down over time, and a heavier oil might help them perform properly anyway, but if they have worn to the point where they don't work properly, its not a good idea to change the oil to better protect them at the expense of the bearings. Heavier oil slows more slowly, so at startup, it takes longer to build pressure, which in turn increases startup wear. The correct approach is to use the proper factory spec oil regardless of mileage.

It sounds like the truck just keeps on ticking so you must be doing some things right.

 

I have a 4x4 ranger 1999 with nearly 300,000 filler neck rusted out very expensive from ford (or anybody). I wrapped mine with fiberglass applied epoxy and no leaks.

 

The evap code was a pinched vacuum line. Replaced iac valve and still idles high. Where is a manual 2.3 supposed to idle?

 

And Roger. Doing all of that already. Running motor craft oil and just trying to keep up with all of the little maintance missed and get it squared away.

 

I am the guy with 422,000 miles on my Ranger.........

Keep oil and coolant in it always..........That's my secret.

 

My previous Ranger rubber hose that went from the filler neck in the fender to the top of the tank cracked out - smelled and leaked somewhat. It is a double-wall and form-fitted. Had to get one from Ford. As I recall fuel went through the center part of the hose and the emissions and fumes were through the outer portion. It was not cheap but replacing it solved several challenges.

Russ

 

Ok so I don't know I don't know if it's trying to adjust itself or what but now it idles at about a thousand and when I pop it out of gear while rolling it goes back and forth from 1200-1600 and does settle at 1000 til I stop. While its surging the fuel system goes back and forth from closed loop to open loop drive as well. At least that is what my live data from the scan tool is telling me. At idle it is also throwing the code IAC OVERSPEED and FUEL LEAN BANK 1

 

You have a vacuum leak somewhere, that is causing both codes.