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Almost 400,000 miles. Help me keep it going.

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  #16  
Old 04-21-2012, 09:27 AM
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You have a vacuum leak somewhere, that is causing both codes.
And roger. Will diagnose and repost. Thank You.
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  #17  
Old 04-21-2012, 11:46 PM
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So I found some leaks on he intake manifold gasket. I torqued everything to spec but it all came loose, I even found spark plugs loose. So I took everything back apart and reassembled all of it. I put a smidgen of rtv on everything this time as insurance so in the morning I will fire it up and we'll see.
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  #18  
Old 04-22-2012, 09:29 AM
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RTV might help for now, but RTV should not be used except where specified. The correct procedure is to disassemble the intake and replace the gaskets. RTV, even sensor safe RTV releases chemicals that can etch metal and cause issues with sensors. I have bought cars that were repaired using RTV, it does not seal long term. When you tightened down the gaskets cut it, as the intake expands and contracts as it heats up and such, it wears through it. You really need to replace the faulty gaskets.
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  #19  
Old 04-22-2012, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by KhanTyranitar View Post
RTV might help for now, but RTV should not be used except where specified. The correct procedure is to disassemble the intake and replace the gaskets. RTV, even sensor safe RTV releases chemicals that can etch metal and cause issues with sensors. I have bought cars that were repaired using RTV, it does not seal long term. When you tightened down the gaskets cut it, as the intake expands and contracts as it heats up and such, it wears through it. You really need to replace the faulty gaskets.
I agree and I'm tracking like a tow missile. But I am at a loss as to what to do. I replaced all the gaskets once and torqued to spec. They came loose. I have NEVER had that happen. It started leaking every where. I only put enough rev to basically color the gasket grey, not even a hairs thickness. This time I still torqued in order but I torqued it to about 55 instead of 22 like the manual said. Man I torque my spark plugs and they came loose.

What do you think?
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:55 PM
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so everything is back together and It seems not to have a vacuum leak anywhere. I sprayed TB cleaner everywhere and it didn't noticeably idle higher anywhere. I mean I thought maybe for a second but its supposed to be really noticable right? I sprayed everything.

I replaced the IAC valve and I still am getting Idle Air Overspeed P1506 but I'm not getting the lean code anymore. Idles at about 1000 at a stop light and when I'm rolling and take it out of gear it stays at anywhere from 1500-2200 RPMs. I'm watching all of this via live data from my Craftsman ScanTool. The STFT is within normal ranges now.

Where do I go from here?
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  #21  
Old 04-22-2012, 09:01 PM
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this stuff might help anyone who is listening. The TPS says it is at 17% at idle and 93% when I push the pedal to the floor. It passes all the KOEO and KOER tests along with the continuous memory. If there is any other stuff I can get off the live data that will help anyone smarter then me figure this out please let me know I will post it.
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  #22  
Old 04-22-2012, 10:02 PM
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Ok so I'm researching and I am finding more and more about this problem. I have a small exhaust leak. where the header meets the downpipe. I got the gasket but can't get the bolts to break loose. SO....I'm soaking that with oil and we will see when I can actually get that one fixed and as mention I also have the filler neck leaking.

AND! I have a problem with the blend door. Didn't think it would effect idle much but that valve that is supposed to close the heater valve and shut off hot water to the heater won't close. At what position will it shut off water to the heater? If this thing is not shutting and it runs off of vacuum then maybe I do have a leak somewhere on the HVAC side of things.

Any Ideas?
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  #23  
Old 04-24-2012, 02:04 AM
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AND! I have a problem with the blend door. Didn't think it would effect idle much but that valve that is supposed to close the heater valve and shut off hot water to the heater won't close. At what position will it shut off water to the heater? If this thing is not shutting and it runs off of vacuum then maybe I do have a leak somewhere on the HVAC side of things.

Any Ideas?
That's easy to check, just unplug the vacuum hose from the HVAC and plug it.
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  #24  
Old 04-24-2012, 09:11 AM
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The valve that turns off the heater core shuts off in the MAX AC position.
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  #25  
Old 04-24-2012, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by copracr View Post
That's easy to check, just unplug the vacuum hose from the HVAC and plug it.
Did what you said and isolated the leak on the hose that connects to the hot water valve for the heater.

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The valve that turns off the heater core shuts off in the MAX AC position.
Instead of doing that it was drawing in air and causing a slight increase in the rpms. After fixing this and cleaning the throttle plate while the engine was running it finally idled down to about 850-900.

So why can't I get it down to 650-700? I think I might have the answer. LOL this thing is driving me mad so let me check something and I'm going to post back in just a few.
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  #26  
Old 04-24-2012, 08:09 PM
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OK so no vacuum leaks. Im gonna get a propane bottle to double check, but I'm pretty sure. Throttle body cleaner isn't finding any and I sprayed that stuff everywhere.

SO... I opened up the throttle body and when its about 1/2 open it has play back and forth. from the outside I can push the shaft in about an 1/8 of an inch, but this is only open as it closes this slack goes away and there is no play when its closed. Will that play affect anything.

Its idling at 900 and won't go down. So thats where its supposed to idle when the power steering/ AC high idle kicks in. GUESS WHAT? when i turn the wheel and hold it it idles at 700.

My AC doesn't kick on, I haven't got that far into fixing this truck up yet, I figured AC last right. Well I jumped that sensor on the AC Can right next to the blower in the engine compartment with the inside on MAX AC. the compressor kicked on and the engin when down to about 700 RPMs. No I think the AC compressor is broken cause LOL its rattling when the clutch engages and started smoking almost immediately. LOL I don't know how long its been since that thing kicked on. Probably not this decade. LOL

OK, so is whatever makes it idle up a couple hundred RPMs when the AC/Steering is engaged is stuck on right?

Maybe I'm blowing this out of proportion but I think I'm on the verge of getting this thing to idle right. I felt like Dr. Frankenstein when the AC compressor kicked on. I started laughing and my kids in the yard where just staring at me. My 1st Grader rolled her eyes at me and said, "daddy, your weird." They don't know, I'm almost there.
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  #27  
Old 04-29-2012, 10:50 PM
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The codes are all gone except idle air over speed. The truck is running great except for the high idle...
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