That clear heat shrink looks like it comes in handy. I have been digging through a wiring thread on another forum getting ideas. Some of those guys make wiring an art form its really impressive.


Nice updates HIO.

 

I myself am not bad at wiring. What ever it is always works, and I try to route the wires the best way possible. But there are definitely more talented people(or ****).

 

aaaahhhhh hahahah
You may be onto something there.

 

That's the fun part, ayyyy.

 

Double entendre? That's French.

I like doing household wiring.. well, except for snaking around in my dirt crawl space... One time I shined a flashlight in there and two glowing orbs were staring back at me. Luckily it was my cat Buster who snuck in through the garage cuz I left the door open.

... I am actually getting giddy with anticipation about working on the LBB this coming long weekend.

 

BUSTER!??! That's my dog's name! I got the idea from my Mom's cocker spaniel when she was a girl.
Who'd a thunk? I repeat,this forum is one heck of a brotherhood.
Looking forward to your accomplishments Monday morning Hio.

 

Buster was a cat that showed up.. I think he got left behind by some folks down the street who got foreclosed. He was coming over to eat my outdoor cat's dry food and one day I said, "Hey Buster who are you?" and answered my own question. Neat cat.. almost like a shop dog.

 

FTE Moderator "Ford_Six" recommended four-note (A,C,D, and F) Cadillac horns as an upgrade over the OEM hi/lo horns. These holidays is another half-off time at Pick N Pull so I figured I'd see what all the hoopla is about with these things sounding like a train horn.... After some research before heading to PnP, it turns out that other GM models also used a four-horn system... namely their "high end" models.

I scoured the 'yard and a 95 Buick Park Avenue gave up its four-horn system for a measly $12 - and they all tested good and yes, they do sound like a train horn albeit at a lower volume. Each pair, A&C and D&F, is split among the front fenders. You'll need a 10 mm socket for the grounding eyelet, a 1/2-inch socket for the mounting bolts, and dikes to cut the signal wires. Take the hardware with you.... and weatherpack connectors are a good thing...

I hit the note designations with a silver Sharpie so ya know where to look....



Also picked up a baggie full of clips for the convoluted tubing and also some spark plug wire looms... $4.

 

Somehow I invisioned a "cow catcher" in-between those fog lamps........

 

..... it's a comin'... patience!

Well, today was spent on little things - installed the speedo gear into the trans, adapting the back up light pig tail, cleanly routed, zip-tied, and trimmed the fuel pump wiring, mounted the headlight relays, and cleaned and wrapped up the ignition wiring harness. Only a few more leads like the tach signal and cooling fan signal wires so not much more time needed under the dash.

Depressing the clutch revealed that the arm comes too close for comfort to the ECU harness so it needs to me moved over. Grrr. ......



Adjusted the clutch and installed the 'candy cane' Hurst shifter. It's almost perfect.... It'd be nice if it were canted to the left a few inches but the throw is better than the NP435 which used to put the shift ball almost up to the dash. Five gears is gonna be fun with a first gear at 3.27 and fifth at 0.68.

Yeah, the steering wheel needs to be clocked........ tomorrow.

 

Man I wish you and your clutch pedal were here in Arizona. I like that control box right where it is. Between the park brake Ka-Ka and the clutch pedal. My Buddy Stewart up in Camp Verde is a Welder and Blacksmith. If you and the pedal were here I'd offer to have Stewart heat that pedal up in his forge and put a mellow zig-zag in it. Going around the wiring but the foot pedal ending up in same spot.

 

No biggee... more trimming on the firewall pad to move over. I thought I had enough room going off of the depression on the firewall pad. Oh well. I spied Mike's carpet and it appears to go over the firewall pad where the ECU is mounted.

I've been wondering where to tap for an ignition-on signal and it turns out Ford provided a three-hole female connector behind the dash.. the feed is black with a green trace (Circuit #297). One bullet connector and the ECU has power. With the cluster out, I neatened up the wiring as good as possible and cut the cooling fan signal wires to length, soldered, and heat shrink. Also hooked up the tach signal wire.

The Grant horn's grounding terminal broke off the horn button... . I'm in the house to take a break, have a cup of coffee, and to solder it back on.

 

Doesn't matter. With those horns and a cow catcher you need a School Bus steering wheel.

 

I gots power steering... cow catcher? I do have a set of horns from an 8-pointer laying around. Close enough?

Dang stupid azz horn button... the terminal post in the button is aluminum and the contact is copper. Solder won't stick to aluminum....It appears to have been crimped on and the solder was there only to lock the flared head.

Enter "MacGyver"......

'found a teensy brass screw and a small nut for a spacer. Drilled a pilot hole and "fixed it". It Ohms out good.

 

plus..........
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