Hey HIO, how close to Cupertino, CA are you? My brother is doing a big mining job out there and is looking for a few good men to operate heavy equipment.

 

About 50 miles...I'm east of SF. Cupertino is south bay. That's around an hour on a Sunday and about 1.5 hours on a weekday . I've got a 9-mile, 15-minute commute - that's driveway to driveway. That's golden.

 

Nice, you are "living the dream" haha!! If you know anyone shoot me a PM---they work about 60-70hrs/wk at very good pay!!

 

HIO I love the job on the brakes, but I have a question for you regarding the proportioning of the system. Obvious the balance is factory set with the use of OEM valve... How are you going to set this balance with this? I would think that you would lock out the rear and do a test stop from a fixed distance, and increment adjustment of the rear valve open, repeating the stop test until the shortest distance is achieved. Does that sound correct?

Also, your inbox is full and I have another PM for you

Looking really great man!

 

So far, so good...as I like your choices...Keep up the good work and take your time as it doesn't happen overnight...lol...

 

Thanks... that's close to the procedure except that the rear isn't locked out at initial setting. Ya adjust the bias until the fronts lock up a tad before the rears do.

I'll clean out my PM box when I get home.

Believe me, I am taking my time and being very methodical but I am trying to outrun mother nature!

Thanks for the kudos.

 

Reverend HIO Silver: " Do you Ford FE take Miss TKO-500 to be your worthy transmission? Do you promise to deliver torque and horsepower?"

Ford FE: "I DO"

Reverend HIO Silver: "Do you Miss TKO-500 take Ford FE to be your worthy engine? Do you promise to provide five forward gears, more miles per gallon in overdrive at 2000 RPM, and smoky, billowing burnouts?"

Miss TKO-500: "Sure do"

Reverend HIO Silver: "May I have the bellhousing bolts please"



Reverend HIO Silver: "I am happy to present Mr. & Mrs. FE-powered TKO-500"


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Off to the honeymoon...






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Whew!.. installing the engine and trans as an assembly was a total production!! Took me an hour angling, tilting nudging, tilting, and nudging but it's in... I was really careful and experienced only one scratch and that was the clutch level contacting the leading edge of left engine perch. Otherwise, that's it!

A couple of tips....... lay cardboard in select places will stave off contact. The power brake booster contacted the valve cover a couple of times but I draped the fabric cover over it and it came out unscathed. I also recommend installing the tilting engine sling close to the intake so it clears the firewall's upper seam with the cowl assembly. The sling cleared but leaving the chains long would not have provided vertical angle to set the engine its the perches.

A cold one because this is a milestone.

 

Looking great there Silver, love the Tremec

 

That's great! I had to call my wife and daughters in to see it, they got a laugh.

 

Quick question HIO, is the "MDL" plate, one of the shift lever locations? just curious about using the original mounting position for the old shifter piece. Very jealous now!!!

Ok two. Could you please get me a pic or measurement of where the tail piece sits under the cab,

 

RD the shifter cant be moved locations , that plate provides access when working on the transmission ....

 

A definite thing of beauty.

 

The ceremony? I came up with that during the process and started laughing out loud by myself. Even introducing them to each other when I wheeled Miss. TKO down the yard...

The shifter is in its only location but can be turned around. MDL recommended a "candy cane" shift lever (Hurst PN 4331). I may turn it around depending on how the bucket seats work out.

I'll post a measurement later today.

 

I won't even ask what the honeymoon was like, I just hope the "bride" used lube.

Stellar work Hio, your attention to detail is second to none.

 

This may seem out of sequence but before taking your truck apart....

ALIGN THE BODY PANELS!

When you're satisfied with gaps and positioning, drill 1/8-inch alignment holes at hood and door hinges, brackets, and at body panel overlaps and flanges.

For example, this is the cowl to inner fender bracket and it is adjustable vertically and horizontally. Therefore two holes are required. The same applies to the hood hinges. Insert the drill bits to index the part and bolt it down... it is EXACTLY where it was before removal.

If you don't like random holes, the hole(s) can be hidden under the washers. I just dab and wipe a lil black RTV to seal it up.