I took my 90 off the road a few years ago. I cut down on employees and didn't need to spend the money on insurance etc. Now I need to start using it again and can't find the key. Since I can't get the ignition switch to turn and push the button in, is there a way to get it out to put in a new switch, short of a slide hammer?

 

I'd think most local locksmiths could pay you a visit and have this sorted out in no time. Maybe get a new lock cylinder with key and have it replaced by the same guy?

I think the ignition cylinders are drilled out---slide hammer removal might damage the column housing. When thieves do this it seems to make quite a mess, often times requiring replacement of the entire column.

I've taken to keeping extra keys for my two vehicles readily at hand---have been known to misplace them myself!

 

Have a look at my pics from my 97, not sure if it it is the same.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - PStruwing's Album: Multifunction Switch Replacement

 

Have doubts 90 & 97 "is the same" but likely similar, maybe similar enough?

Although '90 is getting up in years & "short of a slide hammer" trike1946 might try asking FORD dealer. Many 2 sided 'either way' FORD keys had a Key Code. At 1 time you could get dealer to look up Key Code from VIN & use special key cutter to cut blank. Expect to show title & see exorbitant cost.

About 4 years ago wanted an original GM spare key made for car. OEM keys stamped GM or Chevy & made of German silver, a hard nickel brass. Got w/only 1 cheap, plated soft brass copy w/it. Nearly fell over when warned it would cost nearly $80! Key blank was ~$60 & they charged $5 to cut each side of 'either way' key!

Note: If it can wait & dealer is possible, still far less than mobile locksmith. In some cases may be cheaper to tow to locksmith.

 

Thanks for the replies. I always had extra keys but I put them away so I wouldn't lose them. I have trouble remembering last week let alone what I did with keys last year. My mind is too full of useless information to remember anything good.

The picture of the 97 is more complicated than mine. I was going to take the column apart to see what I can do. What about a bone yard? If I could get mine out, even broken, maybe I could get a replacement with a key from them.

But isn't there another part of the ignition behind the key part?

 

I was charged 12 bucks last time to get a Key cut by Code. Call a ford dealer before you go too nuts.

Also, most older ford keys had very few combinations. I find that most of my vans can be started with one of the other keys if you jiggle them, trying keys from other vehicles. Once you get the key turned, pull it and swap in a new cylinder. Still costs more than getting the key cut by code.

Last time i went to get code cut keys, they didn't ask for a title, ID, or crap. just money.

 

Procedures from FSM for a 92:

Key Lock Cylinder Assembly

NOTE:
The following procedure applies to vehicle that have functional lock cylinders. Lock cylinder keys are available for these vehicles, or the lock cylinder key numbers are known and the proper key can be made.


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. Turn lock cylinder key to RUN position.

3. Place a 3.17mm (1/8-inch) diameter wire pin or small drift punch in hole in trim shroud under lock cylinder. Depress retaining pin while pulling out on lock cylinder to remove it from column housing.




Installation

1. Install lock cylinder by turning it to RUN position and depressing retaining pin. Insert lock cylinder into lock cylinder housing. Make sure cylinder is fully seated and aligned in interlocking washer before turning key to OFF position. This will permit cylinder retaining pin to extend into cylinder housing hole.

2. Rotate lock cylinder, using lock cylinder key, to ensure correct mechanical operation in all positions.

3. Connect battery ground cable.

NOTE:
On vehicles equipped with EEC, when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the EEC processor relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.

NOTE:
The following procedure applies to vehicles in which the ignition lock is inoperative and the lock cylinder cannot be rotated due to a lost or broken lock cylinder key, unknown key number, or a lock cylinder cap that has been damaged and/or broken to the extent that the lock cylinder cannot be rotated.


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. Remove steering wheel as outlined.

3. Using channel lock pliers or vise grip pliers, twist lock cylinder cap until it separates from the lock cylinder.

4. Using a 3/8-inch diameter drill, drill down middle of ignition lock key slot approximately 44mm (1-3/4 inch) until lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of lock cylinder. Remove lock cylinder and drill shavings from lock cylinder housing.

5. Remove retainer, washer, ignition switch and actuator. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings and other foreign materials from casting.

6. Carefully inspect lock cylinder housing for damage from the above operation. If damage is apparent, housing must be replaced.


Installation

1. Replace lock cylinder housing, if damaged.

2. Install actuator and ignition switch as outlined.

3. Install trim and electrical parts.

4. Install new ignition lock cylinder as outlined.

5. Install steering wheel as outlined.

6. Connect battery ground cable.

7. Check lock cylinder operation.