I have a 87 f150? 302 efi. I replaced the EEC due to it not relaying power to fuel pump. Now the fuel pump comes on fine. I have fuel pressure on the rail and spark from the coil. But it still doesn't want to start.

 

Check the control/TFI module on the distributor. Autozone should be able to check I wouldn't doubt this is your problem. At autozone for me it is $50 but has a lifetime warranty so worth every penny.
Trav

 

I just went thru the same thing, I had replaced my EEC, truck was working fine for two weeks. my truck just died, on the road. I pulled my ICM had it tested, it was dead, I have another one on it way.

might want to check you ICM

 

If you have spark I would think the ICM on the side of the distributor is OK.
Maybe low fuel pressure or bad spark plug wires or you may even have fouled spark plugs now.
You need to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail with the key on and pin #2 shorted to pin #6 of the self-test plug.
Also you need to see what codes you have.

 

That's right, there is a spark.

how would you jump pin#2 to pin #6 you are talking about the EEC pins right?

 

I wouldn't rule that out being our 89 F250 was getting spark but wouldn't run. I replaced the ICM as y'all call it and ran fine. I did replace a few other small parts but that was for safety reasons and I wanted to be sure (fuel filter and ignition switch (old ignition switch was broken.).
Trav

 

Not shure if these trucks have them but could it possibly be the hall effect sensor located in the distributor?

 

Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I'm headed home to take the icm off and have it tested. I've heard of it needing a special tool to take off?

 

It's a standard bolt, but its recessed pretty deep and clearance can be tight depending on what engine you have. A socket with walls that are too thick might not be able to squeeze in.

 

yes the tool can be bought from the parts store. it is easer to pull the distributor to get the ICM off.

the first time I pulled the ICM I cut the tool half why so I could get a 1/2 open end on it. I used my cut off wheel.

other words you will have to pull the distributor, be sure to mark with a sharpie

 

No, talking about the EEC self-test plug.



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When I remove it on my trucks I had to pull the dizzy up as some other things are in the way but all you need tool wise is a 9/32 or 7/32 (I can't remember exactly) deep that is small enough to fit in there and take the bolts off then disconnect the wirring harness. There is 2 small bolts be very very careful not to loose them I lost one on our 89 F250 and had to have a small magnet find it I was lucky not to drop it in the engine.
Trav

 

Correct to both #8 and #9. There is special tool a skinny nose socket of sorts. This tool comes in different configurations. The size is 7/32 or 4.5mm if I remember correct. But a special tool is needed. Most sockets don't have a skinny enough nose.

 

I had to grind down the sides of the 7/32 1/4" drive socket to get it to work on the screws heads.

 

How it go?

I got my new ICM in fired right up.

I would like to know if you get it fixed