I started a thread on it and made 22 videos of me rebuilding mine. It's not really that hard.

 

yeah.the turbo is in 2 halves.i dunno why.
hey,i see it in the pics too! so i must have it.cool! see it in the 4th pic down.looks like the band all the way over on the right.
iv seen the #16 DP clamp when i was checking things out.i could tell where that one went,that's why i remember it.it's in the pic second one in from the right.
iv been busy and haven't looked in the box again yet,since my last order lol.but iv no doubt now that if Jayme shows it in the pic,then she's in the bag of clamps iv got.i'll double check tomorrow,but not worried now.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...idewinder.html

i bought this a little while ago now,but iv just been busy doing other stuff to the truck first.i had this planned after the body work/new paint,but i didn't want to pass a good deal by,so i grabbed it back then.

 

This F'ing turbo install is pissing me off. It seems like every step requires some kind of modification from the instructions to get it somewhat right. I got the return hose re-routed today which wasn't too bad but getting this F'ing GP controller harness done is a PITA. It really does need to be extended somehow. I am thinking either bullet connectors or cut and splice in a piece of wire.

I would say give this a few extra days if you don't have a job and about 3-4 weeks if you do have a job. I'm assuming you have crap for tools and no garage, etc to work on it, just like me.

 

Yeah, you have all the clamps you need. It looks like a very complete kit. You may only need to replace a few washers if they are bent/damaged but it all looks to be there.

Not to rain on your parade but I paid $400 for my banks kit. The owner and I pulled it off his truck. It took two whole days but I got the turbo, tranny, and a bunch of other accessories, wiring and interior parts. The hardest part was getting the up-pipe and down-pipe out.

When I get this thing installed, I will go to an exhaust shop and have them make a 4" straight pipe that exits out the side behind the cab. I hope that won't be too expensive. All I have is the down pipe for my Banks kit. We couldn't get all the exhaust off without chopping it up.

 

oh i remember that thread when you scored yours too,you lucky dog! (and the deal on the spare E40D too! even more impressive $ for $.)

hey,check this out for your current issue.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9654154

 

hey my banks parts came today.
im gunna go out and join ya on the miserable step of moving the GP relay Eaton lol.

 

oh i see the trouble your having now.it looks like you need to unhook the two returns at the back eaton so you can swap the wire over,so it runs directly behind the intake opening.that's the only way you'll have enough wire.
so i see now is the time to reroute the return line first.AND the gp wire will be going directly in place of where the stock CDR is.
so im not sure why i was told i could do this yet.
i can't very well ditch the CDR,block it off and run around without it lol.
hmmm.now im wondering if i should get into this and go ahead with the install.it appears iv done everything i can ahead of time.i hadn't really planned on this,this weekend.
well.off to the store i go i guess for some return line.what the heck.lets get 'er done.
i predict a long night ahead.

 

anyone know why the o-ring for the CDR block off plate appears to be too large for the recess slot in the plate?

this is what i feared.what should be obvious small bs stuff and getting stuck.i foresee an oil leak using this supplied o-ring.i don't even see how anyone even bothers trying to use it,it's obviously the wrong size.
what am i missing here guys?

haha.banks made a mistake.the o-ring that came with the block off plate was the wrong size.the one in the #93312 kit fits.what a mess lol.

 

I was gonna say, my block off plate O-ring fits fine.

I'm not sure I remember saying you can do the GP harness yet but if I did, that's not what I meant.

I'm still trying to get that F'ing stud out of that F'ing up-pipe. The two bolts idea did not work. Both bolts just un-thread. I have a feeling I'm going to have to pay someone to get it out for me. That or cut it off and just say screw it and let the tubo flop all around. So much for the "put anti-seize on the studs" instructions. Some people just don't care.

I don't see this being a 2 day job unless you are 100% prepared with all the parts needed, all parts straight from the factory not installed before and a workshop full of professional tools.

 

well im caught up to ya now i think eaton.iv got the top end all prepped now and some exhaust doubled wrapped and sprayed.thought id have to work through the night,but so far so good.i dunno if i can wrapped it up tomorrow or not.
pretty much iv just got to unbolt the exhaust now,cut off an ear on the E40D when that's out,stick in the new dipstick tube,and start bolting her in.
i feel for ya on the exhaust there eaton.no way id touch it if i didn't have the torch.i'll heat them nuts up cheery red first thing tomorrow and hopefully my custom Y pipe is out within the hour.
can't find someone around to lend ya a hand with acetylene uh? too bad we didn't live close by.we could give each other a hand and both have whistling diesels before midnight tomorrow lol.

 

so your issue right now is not being able to fit the down pipe on the studs because the firewall is so tight?
you bent the seam all the way back and still having the issue? by how much is it? can't beat it a bit with a big hammer to provide enough room? or just not going to happen with the studs still in?

past/off topic;
that heater hose clamp replacement must have something to do with the older 6.9l engines.cus that clearly doesn't apply to the 7.3l.
i spun the thing around a bit for nothing lmao.it's wide open.on the 6.9l it probably bumps the oil fill neck when sticking out so far with the adapter i guess.

 

Yeah, I don't know anyone with that kind of equipment. I'm going to have to pay a shop to remove the stud. If it weren't for the stud on the passenger side of the up-pipe casting, it would fit through the firewall. I have the firewall lip cut and bent back pretty well but because the up-pipe has to be rotated for it to fit past the firewall, the stud sticks out too far. I probably could have had this done last weekend if it wasn't for this problem. It might fit if I removed the transmission but I don't have the equipment to even do that.

 

Wow, glad I got an ATS. You guys are makin the banks sound like a real pain!

 

I went down to Midas this morning and had them get the stud out. It only cost me $20, so I think it was well worth the money. If the weather dries up today, I'll continue the turbo install.

 

i found your issue today Eaton.both that stud for the mount bracket and the EGT probe have be removed first for sure.even then the thing just barely fits! what a pain that was fishing that up through!

i was making great strides........until it came time to fit the turbo.there isn't enough room for it to sit on the 4 studs of the up pipe because it sits way too far back against the firewall,and the cowl of the cab doesn't let it go back.
i checked to see if i could ditch the studs and set the turbo on first,you can do that,except for the pass side upper.that stud won't fit in after,so i left that one on,and she still hits the firewall hard and wont slide down on.


what a POOR fitting turbo kit.glad i didn't pay full $ for this thing!
not only that,but if i do somehow beat the firewall back enough for the turbo to finally sit on the pedestal (iv dented her in considerably already) ,i see no room at all left for the down pipe to fit down in there on top of the up pipe and between the cab/trans tunnel anyway!

man i was so close i could taste it.if this thing was built to fit correctly,id be turbocharged for sure right now.
i would have then put on the cross over pipe and fitted the goods up top and been done,minus gauges and my exhaust to dp connection probably.
how frustrating.


yeah!
if i knew this kit was such poorly designed i would have went ATS for sure.
i seriously have no clue how im going to fit the turbo and DP in my truck.
it looks as if with a 4" body lift (lmao.not gunna happen) they "might" fit.