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Excursion No Cruise Control!

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Old 04-06-2012, 10:33 PM
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Excursion No Cruise Control!

I have a 2002 Excursion Limited V10 with 90K. I bought it with the cruise control not working. I found the "cruise control self test" that runs through a sequence of tests pressing each button. After the last button was pressed "Set/Accel" the cruise light would flash once, then 1sec. later 2 additional flashes occurred.
2 flashes- BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

My truck as LED tail lights including the center light. I found info linking the center light to the cruise as a "deactivator". I replaced the center with a "912" bulb, still no cruise. I then placed in a 25-OHM Resister in series with the LED, and still no Cruise.

Any Suggestions??
 
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by westcar360
"cruise control self test"
...whuuua?
 
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by robert_l_ross
...whuuua?
It only applies to the 2002-2005 trucks with at new fangled electronic instrument cluster.

Us 1st Gen Excursion owners don't have that...

If you look near the brake fluid resevoir, you should see sensor at the very end of it with a connector going to it. It's a sort of brake switch that the cruise control uses to know when you step on the brakes. Make sure that connector is fully seated. If it's fully seated, head to the Ford house and get a new one.
 
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:26 PM
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I found the connector for the brake switch on the master cylinder. My truck has had the recall done to it with the additional wiring and fuse between the original connector and the brake switch. I bypassed the "recall Wiring harness" and connected the original connector.
Now, my cruise passes the "Cruise self test" but, when u go to turn the cruise on and hit the set/resume button the cruise light flashes and turns off.
 
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:36 PM
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I had to replace the micro switch that goes into the master cylinder and the recall wiring. Cruise worked to a couple of months then went out again. This time I replaced the cruise control module that hooks to the throttle body. Its all good now. By the way check your salvage yards for that module because it expensive. I got mine for $35 bucks at a salvage yard. Good luck, John
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:59 AM
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Sorry to bump and old thread, but I'm troubleshooting the cruise on my '00 and I wanted to say something.
Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel
It only applies to the 2002-2005 trucks with at new fangled electronic instrument cluster.

Us 1st Gen Excursion owners don't have that...
Yes we do.

I'll be posting a diagnostic writeup in the near future when I get this thing all figured out, and in that writeup will be a video of my use of the diagnostic mode on my 2000. This can be verified by anyone watching the video because I don't have the electronic odometer, but the diagnostic mode most certainly does work with a 2000 Excursion.

Originally Posted by Torreador_diesel
If you look near the brake fluid resevoir, you should see sensor at the very end of it with a connector going to it. It's a sort of brake switch that the cruise control uses to know when you step on the brakes. Make sure that connector is fully seated. If it's fully seated, head to the Ford house and get a new one.
Seems like this is the most common cause for cruise control failure. My brake pressure switch was bad, but it wasn't the only thing. There was brake fluid in the harness so I replaced the sensor, but still no cruise! Between the diagnostic mode mentioned above and testing the resistance of the different switch positions it looks like I have a bad switch. More to follow on that one.
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:26 AM
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How do you access this diagnostic mode/cruise control self test?
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BEARDOWN
How do you access this diagnostic mode/cruise control self test?
Here are the instructions:

Self-Test Diagnostics - Excursion, Super Duty

WARNING: THIS TEST IS A KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST ONLY THAT IS CONDUCTED IN PARK ONLY WITH EMERGENCY BRAKE FULLY ENGAGED.

Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart for trouble codes:
2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
Return ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures\Diagnosis By Symptom

 
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:39 AM
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Wow that was quick ...Thanks
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by BEARDOWN
Wow that was quick ...Thanks
Yeah, I'm a nerd and I haven't finished my coffee yet. Which places me on the computer until I finish the pot!
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:48 AM
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x2 on looking at the pressure switch - I replaced mine and fixed the leak and my CC at the same time.
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:13 AM
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I had a link to the way you test your circuit starting at the master cylinder and working your way to the cruise control servo with a volt/ohm meter. Maybe Crazy001 has the link or someone else. In my case it was the cruise control servo
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Treker58
I had a link to the way you test your circuit starting at the master cylinder and working your way to the cruise control servo with a volt/ohm meter. Maybe Crazy001 has the link or someone else. In my case it was the cruise control servo
Not sure about the link, but the shop manual I subscribe to provides lots of great info. I don't want to post the exact text for copyright concerns, but I will be putting together a troubleshooting thread once I get mine working. Pretty sure it's the switch, and so my new one is coming in on Tuesday!
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:05 PM
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I had the same issue. it was the brake pressure switch in the master cylinder. mine was leaking. replaced it and everything worked great!
 
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:21 AM
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Bit of an amature here, so please be kind... wondering if anyone can suggest what might be the problem. I did the self test (off and cycle key), and the single flash of the speed control indicator flashes once signaling it is going into the self test mode. No 5 flashes, so take that to mean the servo is ok. true? The first button I push is the "on" button.... no flash.... This is leading me to believe the in steering wheel switch is bad. Any thoughts?

Would other bad parts cause cruise self test not to work when getting to the on button?

I am not able to turn cruise "on" while driving. The lights in the steering wheel switch are on indicating there is power and the radio/fan control on the right works. I am told both sides (on excursion limited) in the steering wheel is one part. That part is $500 at the dealer, so want to be sure I am accurately diagnosing it.

Any thoughts?
 


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