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Is this normal or am I in big trouble - ball joints?

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Is this normal or am I in big trouble - ball joints?

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  #16  
Old 04-04-2012, 12:55 AM
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If you do the ball joints you should do the axle U-joints while you have the front apart.
 
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  #17  
Old 04-04-2012, 05:28 AM
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i just got brand new Raybestos Professional grade tie rods from carquest. they cost $400 there or you can get them from rock auto for $260.
 
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rolape2 View Post
If you do the ball joints you should do the axle U-joints while you have the front apart.
On a 2wd? U-joints are the + shaped bearing assembly in the drive shaft or (front axle on a 4x4), right? I'm still learning about these things, so I am not 100% sure.
 
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  #19  
Old 04-04-2012, 10:13 AM
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Ya eaton no u joints on the twin i beam. Only two on the rear axle and probably a carrier bearing seeing as you have the extended cab.
 
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  #20  
Old 04-04-2012, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Onus View Post
Ya eaton no u joints on the twin i beam. Only two on the rear axle and probably a carrier bearing seeing as you have the extended cab.
So how do I check the U-joints and carrier bearing to see if they need to be replaced? I should probably lube everything with a nipple at the very least. I have some lithium grease I can put in my grease gun if that is the right stuff. It is yellowish in color if that helps.
 
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  #21  
Old 04-04-2012, 10:36 AM
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I use high temperature grease its red. The u joints you will know if your getting clunking in the rear when driving, or vibration coming from the rear too. I just replaced my u joints they cost 5 dollars or so for the premium greasable types on rock auto. Not sure how to check the bearing.
 
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:46 AM
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I don't recall any clunking but then again I don't notice a lot when driving an old, loud truck. I'll have to look for the red grease, then. Thanks for the tip.

On Rockauto.com, I see this: Up To 4200 Lb Front Gross Axle Wheel Rating. Is that what I am looking for? Also, what is a good brand they have. I see Raybestos but I have never heard of them but one or twice.
 
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  #23  
Old 04-04-2012, 12:02 PM
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Raybestos professional ball joints at least are spicer products. Good stuff. I believe the oe ball joints were also spicer. Check you door jamp. I know mine is rated at 3500 or something. I think the cutoff is 4200 at that point the tierods change atleast by parts.
 
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  #24  
Old 04-04-2012, 02:15 PM
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The front GAWR says 3965. It's pretty close but I guess I am looking at the under 4200 GAWR parts then.
 
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:06 PM
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Yup thats what you need then. If you have a trouble getting all the parts matched up sometimes its easier just to search on raybestos's website and it will show the parts for your truck and you can then put them into rock auto.
 
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:22 AM
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Looking on Raybestos' website, I see service grade and professional grade parts. What is good? It's $43 versus $12 for a tie rod end. Does anyone know what the difference is? Cash is a bit low right now. I could probably swing the service grade parts but I will need to wait a few weeks before I can afford the professional parts.
 
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:55 PM
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i heard that the professional grade is MUCH better than the service grade. that is why i went with prof grade. they look nice to (quality).
 
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  #28  
Old 04-05-2012, 06:01 PM
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I don't know, but 12 bucks for a tie rod end sounds to good to be true.
Wonder what the mark up is on those. Usually, it's at least 50%.
Something to think about.
 
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  #29  
Old 04-05-2012, 06:37 PM
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i can understand not having the money to make a purchase but.......

there are two things you ABSOLUTELY NEED on any vehicle, brakes and steering.

as my teacher in school says, there are no C brake and steering jobs. it is either right or wrong, no in between.

so that being said i would go professional grade. if you have another vehicle to drive until you get enough money to get the professional grade tie rods, the DO SO. the front ends on the trucks carry a lot of weight.


DO NOT SKIMP OUT!
 
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  #30  
Old 04-05-2012, 09:31 PM
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If you go with the service grade, they had better be lifetime warranty.

Cause Schucks/Oreilly's are, that way if it dies you can get a new one for free with a receipt.

OR you can spend the same amount on genuine Moog parts as on "pro grade" something-rather from Rock-Auto. Who makes those? If it's not Moog, I'd say 90% of the members here would go find the Moog parts.

I had a tie end rod POP OUT of the socket while driving last fall. Thankfully what caused it was slowing into a corner(hitting a drain cover dip), and heading uphill so it was easy to slow down while my whole front end jumped side-to-side.
BTW if that happens to anyone some rope or in my case 2-gauge battery cable will tie that sucker back on good enough to get home.
Before that I was doing 55 mph, could have been a whole different story.

Listen to '94IDITurbo7.3, brakes and steering are all you NEED. Just make sure you grease them or they will end up just like the ones you have now!

Anywho that's my $0.02. We just wanna keep you and your IDI safely ON the road!

-Joshua
 
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