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1994 F-150 4.9 E40D SD to MAF

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Old 04-03-2012, 03:49 PM
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1994 F-150 4.9 E40D SD to MAF

First let me introduce myself. I live in Fort Worth Texas and bought my truck used in 1995. About 3-4 years after I bought my truck I started having all the tranny problems and being young I just flushed the fluid regularly to prolong the inevitable rebuild. So now fast forward after years of torgue converter shudder I decided last year with my son starting college I would fix up the old Ford. I rebuilt the Tranny with all the upgrades and WOW what a difference. I have started doing the body work getting her ready for a fresh skin and now am working my way into the motor.

OK so I have been doing a ton of reading to the point my eyes are hurting from looking at computer screens. I would preferr a conversion kit to convert from Speed Density to Mass Air Flow. I have seen kits for 302, 351, and 460's but no kits for the 4.9. If a kit is non existent is there a detailed write up that any of you know of for this conversion?

My reasons for swapping and correct me if I am wrong are slight improvements in fueleconomy and I am also looking at a cold air intake with Cat back performance exhaust. I just bought a 24' fifth wheel trailer and want the best I can get from my big six.
 
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:50 PM
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OMG please delete this one I feel like a retard. My internet is spotty today with the tornados and storms all around and I double posted. What a way to enter a new forum.
 
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:01 PM
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There is no kit that I am aware for your 4.9L engine. It is going to be a homebrew at best. In reality you are not going to see much if ANY change in performance or mileage IMHO by switching to MAF.

On a stock engine, even with a free-flowing exhaust, you are not going to be outside the pre-programmed parameters of the factory PCM. I say forget the cold-air (most are actually hot air) intake. Stick with the factory setup that actually pulls in air from behind the grille.

Your biggest gains could be found by replacing the factory converters with an aftermarket high-flow system.
 
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:23 AM
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Well maybe you can help me out. I am in the process of fixing up this truck and am replacing the exhaust (either cat back or complete haven't decided). It is entirely original with the exception af gaskets that have been replaced over the years. The exhaust is black as though it has been running rich for a long time but there is no smoke. After reading this and alot of other forums I xcame to the conclusion it was the result of inefficiencies in Speed Density and the way the injectors are bank fired. Is there anything I can do to improve this. I haven't checked the fuel economy on this truck in 10 years so I have no idea but I can do a quick check on the next tank of gas if that helps.

I would also entertain suggestions on exhaust replacements. I'd rather change from the manifolds back and have a bolt on system. I have a great mig welder in the garage and can tack whatever I need to.
 
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:15 AM
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The only reason you would need to change to a MAF setup is if you had more extreme mods than the stock system could handle, namely the cam. The exhaust is going to get black over time and with miles and that's any type of setup. The later model manifolds like you have are pretty decent and if they're good, id leave em alone. Catalytic converter efficiency has come a long way and the stock cats are usually the biggest bottleneck in the system. Id change those out, high flow are best, but a brand new standard one will flow better than the stockers. If you can get away with it go without, if you live somewhere where all they do is look to see that you have em but don't do an emissions test this guy sells strait through cats cheap High Flow Cat as far as mufflers go again, almost anything you buy today will flow better than what came stock. If you like it loud and with that classic inline six sound, id go glass packs, they're cheap and straight through. Some guys like flowmasters, some dynomax, each model of muffler should give you an idea of sound deadening vs. flow. then make sure you're going larger on the pipes, 2.5" would be the smallest I'd go, some guys like duals, that's all up to you. If you live in an area where there are still craftsmen, a local muffler shop should be able to bend you up a decent system. Some places like California, there aren't many craftsmen and muffler shops charge big money to do anything that isn't a bolt up system capitalizing on the idea that its "custom" like you have some kind of exotic. Maintenance here is your friend, an engine that is properly maintained and tuned up with quality parts, will be more efficient and powerful than one let go or rigged or with cheap parts used on it. Kepp your oil changed, maybe go synthetic, definitely a Motorcraft filter, some wal marts even have em. Spark plugs, a good set of wires, cap/rotor and check the timing, change the diff fluid while you're at it. Definitely synthetic on the tranny and a big cooler if you're pulling.
 
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Intimnasc1
Well maybe you can help me out. I am in the process of fixing up this truck and am replacing the exhaust (either cat back or complete haven't decided). It is entirely original with the exception af gaskets that have been replaced over the years. The exhaust is black as though it has been running rich for a long time but there is no smoke. After reading this and alot of other forums I xcame to the conclusion it was the result of inefficiencies in Speed Density and the way the injectors are bank fired. Is there anything I can do to improve this. I haven't checked the fuel economy on this truck in 10 years so I have no idea but I can do a quick check on the next tank of gas if that helps.

I would also entertain suggestions on exhaust replacements. I'd rather change from the manifolds back and have a bolt on system. I have a great mig welder in the garage and can tack whatever I need to.
It's not really a function of Speed Density or bank firing that causes the black exhaust coating. It's the programming in the PCM for open loop operation. During warm-up, full throttle and other conditions the PCM drops out of closed operation and relies on a look up table for supplying fuel based on various inputs. This is typically where the rich condition comes into play. The short and long term fuel trims do have an effect as well, but the factory errs on the side of caution and tends to dump in a little more fuel to prevent a lean condition and possible engine damage.

It's this look up table that gets manipulated when you have a custom tune made for your vehicle.

As noted previously most of the aftermarket y-pipe/converter combos will flow much better than the factory pieces. After that you can use a muffler of your choice. Tailpipe is easy too. That mig will come in handy.
 
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:16 PM
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I too say keep the stock intake. Its already cold air and flows more air than the 300 can use.

I've not seen MAF conversions for it either. I'm going to agree that for your application, there would be little or no difference anyway.

I guess you could use a 1996 parts truck to convert to OBDII. That would give you mass air. I wouldn't go through all that trouble.

Maybe Magnaflow makes a catted Y pipe for your truck. As for the muffler, I'd suggest Dynomax super turbo. It'll be kind of mellow. Trust me, you don't want a loud I6.
 
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:28 PM
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What gears and tire size does the truck have? If they're anything bigger than 31" and less than 4.10 you're going to have a lot of trouble hauling a 5th wheel so that's where you should spend your money.
 
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:52 AM
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I just put American Racing Outlaw II Mags on with a set of Kuhmo 31x10.5 tires. As far as the rear axle ratio I am not sure. When I say pulling a 5th wheel let me explain only around Texas and local lakes and campgrounds. I have no intention on trailering on long trips until my kids both get the heck out of college and I can afford a 3/4 ton diesel. This is temporary (like 5-7 years) until I get my kids education taken care of.
 
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