2001 Crew Cab and 2010 jumpseat
#1
2001 Crew Cab and 2010 jumpseat
There seems to be a plentiful enough supply of 2010 jumpseats on ebay, I picked one up in grey cloth for something like $165 I think. It has a built in headrest and shoulder belt.
This was a bit of a leap for me, it was obvious they didn't mount exactly the same way as the 2001 jumpseat. The front doesn't have the wings that come out and get into the same mounting position as the driver and passenger seats. The rear holes are the same width.
So with a 19mm socket and a T55 torx I got the entire front row out. I had to work passenger towards driver as they overlapped in the front. Then three of my 5 bosses (4 kids, wife) inspected the progress.
Now you see my son there, holding the plug for the power drivers seat? That plug is round, the studs sticking up from the floor are round... When your kids get into that and introduce the two as it seems so inviting to do, there is a 30A fuse in the engine compartment fuse block you will need to change before your seat will work. And if your seat wont work, you can't put it back in all the way because you need to run it front/back to get at the mounts. Ask me how I know.
So anyway, since the middle no longer overlaps the driver/passenger you can work on it by itself without putting the driver/pass in and out over and over.
The rear bolts in just as the stock one did, no problems there, but the front needs some rigging.
What I did was to put it in place, tighten down the rear bolt/nut, and drill through the floor for bolts. If you grab the front skirt and pull a bit it will come free and the entire cushion will swing up, giving you access to the front bolt holes.
I ran the bolts up from below with a large washer, then a large washer on top of the carpet, nut. I tightened all this down and basically made more studs like for the other seats. If you let the seat set this way, its got nearly a vertical back, so I stacked washers under the seat to give it some recline, then put the seat, then washer, then nut. All grade 8, 3/8". Orscheln farm store sells them by the lb, was like $3 in hardware, good times.
You can just see the washer stack in this shot:
Then the final washer/nut in the seat:
Done mounting:
So now you have the middle seat all squared away, but you quickly find that the driver/pass seats wont fit, there is a plastic shroud over the rear mounts which needs some hacksaw loving.
Its not the structure of the seat, just that shroud thats in the way. The seats don't touch (they come real close) when they are all in, nothing is in the way. You can't get onto the bolt/nut for the center rear with the driver/pass in place though.
So the color isn't the same, didn't care. The seat width is a tad narrower, but no complaints from the front/center kid so far.
At the back of my stock jumpseat I had installed a lighter plug style 12v outlet for a rear dvd player. This one is a bit different and wasn't quite as good a mount at the same location. And also the plug flush with the back of the seats meant whatever was plugged in was then sticking out to be stepped on. So I mounted the plug mid way under the seat. With the cushion so easily lifted up by grabbing the front skirt I can put my splitter in there, plug the dvd and the IR headphone transmitter in, and all the plugs stay hidden and out of the way of stomping feet.
Those are powerpole connectors, I run that back to a block under the steering column with fuses and 12v distribution. Also has usb plugs for power we use to run ipods and charge phones with a run coming out in the glove box. Run my XM radio from it, and my 2M ham rig too.
Seems to work, this along with my rear headrests in a post a few minutes ago, all the kids have headrests and will have shoulder straps soon.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...headrests.html
This was a rare "hope this works" with a non-trivial amount of money for me, and it seemed to work. Hope this helps others.
This was a bit of a leap for me, it was obvious they didn't mount exactly the same way as the 2001 jumpseat. The front doesn't have the wings that come out and get into the same mounting position as the driver and passenger seats. The rear holes are the same width.
So with a 19mm socket and a T55 torx I got the entire front row out. I had to work passenger towards driver as they overlapped in the front. Then three of my 5 bosses (4 kids, wife) inspected the progress.
Now you see my son there, holding the plug for the power drivers seat? That plug is round, the studs sticking up from the floor are round... When your kids get into that and introduce the two as it seems so inviting to do, there is a 30A fuse in the engine compartment fuse block you will need to change before your seat will work. And if your seat wont work, you can't put it back in all the way because you need to run it front/back to get at the mounts. Ask me how I know.
So anyway, since the middle no longer overlaps the driver/passenger you can work on it by itself without putting the driver/pass in and out over and over.
The rear bolts in just as the stock one did, no problems there, but the front needs some rigging.
What I did was to put it in place, tighten down the rear bolt/nut, and drill through the floor for bolts. If you grab the front skirt and pull a bit it will come free and the entire cushion will swing up, giving you access to the front bolt holes.
I ran the bolts up from below with a large washer, then a large washer on top of the carpet, nut. I tightened all this down and basically made more studs like for the other seats. If you let the seat set this way, its got nearly a vertical back, so I stacked washers under the seat to give it some recline, then put the seat, then washer, then nut. All grade 8, 3/8". Orscheln farm store sells them by the lb, was like $3 in hardware, good times.
You can just see the washer stack in this shot:
Then the final washer/nut in the seat:
Done mounting:
So now you have the middle seat all squared away, but you quickly find that the driver/pass seats wont fit, there is a plastic shroud over the rear mounts which needs some hacksaw loving.
Its not the structure of the seat, just that shroud thats in the way. The seats don't touch (they come real close) when they are all in, nothing is in the way. You can't get onto the bolt/nut for the center rear with the driver/pass in place though.
So the color isn't the same, didn't care. The seat width is a tad narrower, but no complaints from the front/center kid so far.
At the back of my stock jumpseat I had installed a lighter plug style 12v outlet for a rear dvd player. This one is a bit different and wasn't quite as good a mount at the same location. And also the plug flush with the back of the seats meant whatever was plugged in was then sticking out to be stepped on. So I mounted the plug mid way under the seat. With the cushion so easily lifted up by grabbing the front skirt I can put my splitter in there, plug the dvd and the IR headphone transmitter in, and all the plugs stay hidden and out of the way of stomping feet.
Those are powerpole connectors, I run that back to a block under the steering column with fuses and 12v distribution. Also has usb plugs for power we use to run ipods and charge phones with a run coming out in the glove box. Run my XM radio from it, and my 2M ham rig too.
Seems to work, this along with my rear headrests in a post a few minutes ago, all the kids have headrests and will have shoulder straps soon.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...headrests.html
This was a rare "hope this works" with a non-trivial amount of money for me, and it seemed to work. Hope this helps others.
#4
If you were starting with a console and seats with arms next to the consle then yes you have a bracket and hole in the side of the seat to deal with.
#5
Yes I had a console, so I had to cut the arm rest stop posts off, and I have holes in the leather where the arm rests were, but I'm good with it. Maybe some day I can find a leather place that can cover the holes.
Since this was a swap from an original jumpseat (low back and lap belt) to a newer model jumpseat (high-back/headrest and shoulder belt) there weren't any arms to deal with.
If you were starting with a console and seats with arms next to the consle then yes you have a bracket and hole in the side of the seat to deal with.
If you were starting with a console and seats with arms next to the consle then yes you have a bracket and hole in the side of the seat to deal with.
#7
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#9
3cv thank you so much for this write up I just removed my center console and put the newer style jump seat in just like yours. I had to take off the armrest and cut the stop pins off but now I can seat me the wife and 4 kids if we need to. That way we aren't stuck always
having to drive the wife's expedition. Again thank you
having to drive the wife's expedition. Again thank you
#10
3cv thank you so much for this write up I just removed my center console and put the newer style jump seat in just like yours. I had to take off the armrest and cut the stop pins off but now I can seat me the wife and 4 kids if we need to. That way we aren't stuck always
having to drive the wife's expedition. Again thank you
having to drive the wife's expedition. Again thank you
#11
Long since lost to time for those details, but the washers were just stacked until the orientation looked right. The length isn't critical as its just up into an empty space under the cusion, longer better than shorter is better of course.
#12
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