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99 F350 Super Duty Build

  #16  
Old 09-27-2012, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Adventure Rider
Very nice Linne

Looks like it will come out great

Awesome work area too

Glad you noticed the work area I try to keep it as clean as possible there cleaning the space takes almost as much of my time as my projects
 
  #17  
Old 09-27-2012, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Linne
I never got any measurements so I started to build my Road Armor look bumper from cardboard boxes.



Are you going to paint the cardboard to keep the rain off the cardboard?


I cut up my bumper this spring. It was a fun time!



Here is the whole speal if you want to take a look: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-stuff-3.html


Excited to see some metal work going on here!
 
  #18  
Old 09-27-2012, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Are you going to paint the cardboard to keep the rain off the cardboard?


I cut up my bumper this spring. It was a fun time!



Here is the whole speal if you want to take a look: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-stuff-3.html


Excited to see some metal work going on here!

I will not let it get wet

Really clean job you don there on you front. It look really good.
 
  #19  
Old 09-27-2012, 02:11 PM
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I like the conceptual design so far.

I have quite a bit of respect for people that have the talent and know-how to do this stuff. I don't possess the skills to fab items, so I overpay for someone else's work. Fortunately I know how to turn a wrench at least so I save a small fortune on labor at times...

The fact that you're posting pics makes it even better, love these threads (plus it's a change from "will these tires fit, which shocks, etc" threads).

 
  #20  
Old 09-28-2012, 10:38 AM
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Should I change the topic on this thread to something like -99 F350 crewcab build?

I did manage to get hoses and fittings for the ram assist today, hope I have time to start the install project now on the weekend and drill the steering box...

 
  #21  
Old 09-29-2012, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000silverbullet
I like the conceptual design so far.

I have quite a bit of respect for people that have the talent and know-how to do this stuff. I don't possess the skills to fab items, so I overpay for someone else's work. Fortunately I know how to turn a wrench at least so I save a small fortune on labor at times...

The fact that you're posting pics makes it even better, love these threads (plus it's a change from "will these tires fit, which shocks, etc" threads).


I agree! Many times I wander over to the pirate 4x4 forum just to look at some of the fab work going on. I as well get a bit tired of seeing the same threads posted over and over again. I just weed threw them to find the more interesting ones.

Anxiously awaiting fab pics!
 
  #22  
Old 09-29-2012, 10:10 AM
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I will try to get something done tonight.

I have started cutting the bumper parts out of steel now, and right now I am trying to fab the places for the hydro assist. Hope I can give you some more pics today.



 
  #23  
Old 09-29-2012, 06:44 PM
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Here is some more pictures, I did get the cylinder mounts done today.
Tomorrow I hope I have the time to drill and tap my steering box.















I did put some primer on it also







And then some TecTyl



 
  #24  
Old 09-29-2012, 07:41 PM
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Your PS pump is going to appreciate this mod. Lookin' good.
 
  #25  
Old 09-29-2012, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000silverbullet
You're PS pump is going to appreciate this mod. Lookin' good.
*Your*
 
  #26  
Old 09-29-2012, 08:18 PM
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I think my PS pump has been begging for this mod
 
  #27  
Old 09-30-2012, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by gr8scott72
*Your*
Seriously??

It's corrected (auto correct did that initially BTW)...
 
  #28  
Old 09-30-2012, 09:27 AM
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Nice job!

Just a tip, make sure you are cleaning the metal very good before welding. A tiny spot of paint/dirt/what have you, the size of a pin head is enough to cause a contaminated pin hole in the weld. A contaminated spot in a weld even smaller than the eye can see will be the root to a crack and cracks lead to broken off parts normally at the worst time.

In this pic you posted you can see the paint/dirt lines yet in between the grinder passes you made. That should have been cleaned perfectly to metal at least half way around the bar. Use the flappy disc on the grinder, it works much better at taking everything but the actual base metal off. It also looks like in the pic, the forward weld is completely off the cleaned area. That is also why your final welds look brown, from contamination.

The pic:
 
  #29  
Old 09-30-2012, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Nice job!

Just a tip, make sure you are cleaning the metal very good before welding. A tiny spot of paint/dirt/what have you, the size of a pin head is enough to cause a contaminated pin hole in the weld. A contaminated spot in a weld even smaller than the eye can see will be the root to a crack and cracks lead to broken off parts normally at the worst time.

In this pic you posted you can see the paint/dirt lines yet in between the grinder passes you made. That should have been cleaned perfectly to metal at least half way around the bar. Use the flappy disc on the grinder, it works much better at taking everything but the actual base metal off. It also looks like in the pic, the forward weld is completely off the cleaned area. That is also why your final welds look brown, from contamination.

The pic:
x2, give that bracket a good hammer test, those welds look very dirty
 
  #30  
Old 09-30-2012, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
Nice job!

Just a tip, make sure you are cleaning the metal very good before welding. A tiny spot of paint/dirt/what have you, the size of a pin head is enough to cause a contaminated pin hole in the weld. A contaminated spot in a weld even smaller than the eye can see will be the root to a crack and cracks lead to broken off parts normally at the worst time.

In this pic you posted you can see the paint/dirt lines yet in between the grinder passes you made. That should have been cleaned perfectly to metal at least half way around the bar. Use the flappy disc on the grinder, it works much better at taking everything but the actual base metal off. It also looks like in the pic, the forward weld is completely off the cleaned area. That is also why your final welds look brown, from contamination.

The pic:
Thank you, that's alot to think about. I do understan the basics, but did not think it was that important.

The funny thing about this is that I did hear from a friend today that in Finland it is illegal to weld on this tie rod so I probably have to cut it loose and only try to bolt it with some type of pipe clamps
 

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