I have a 1987 Ford Ranger I'm restoring and I'm looking for information on how to replace the anti-rattle pieces in the door window. I don't have the body manual and would like to know what the steps are on how to replace these and if any special tools are required. I do know from the new pieces that there are clips involved. Thanks.

 

Welcome to the Forum. I'm sure you'll find a lot of good information from our members that will be helpful with your Ranger projects.
From most of the window weather stripping work that I have been involved with, the most used tool is a smaller flat blade screw driver. A right angle pick and maybe a cotter pin extracter can also help at times. Duck bill pliers and long nose types also help along with regular pliers. An inspection mirror and a flash light can also help you see into some blind places to help get things taken apart. Probably the biggest help is to have the window out of the track, so you have room to work around the guide channels and don't have to pry the seals past the glass. When you look at most of the weather strips or anti-rattle strips as you take them out, you should find that most of them are held in place by metal clips that are molded in to the strip. Some parts of the rubber felt weather strip may only be held in place by itself where it is a tight fit into the channel that guides the window. This is usually in the vertical portions of the window guide, but there may also be a clip at the top and or bottom of guide to help keep it in place. Most of the horizontal strips will be held in place with clips or even screws along the length of it, so it will stay in place. Some of the screw heads may be covered by the strip so they won't contact the glass, so you may need to look under the outer edges of the strip to check for them. Some screw heads may also be found inside a strip that has double edges. Save your old weather strips so you can compare them to the new pieces to make sure you have the correct parts. As for a starting point, it may be easier to start on the horizontal strip on the bottom of the window opening in the door, right where you would rest your arm if the window was open. With the glass out, you can pry the strip away from the door a little and see where the clips or screws are that hold this strip in place and then start the removal. There should be an inner and an out strip at this position. Once they are both out, it may be easier to remove the longer window channel strips. Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks! I have also noticed on the passenger side that it is now harder to roll down that it use to. I'm trying to see if there is a piece of plastic that has broke and making it tight. I was wondering if it would help to spray the glass with WD40 to help ease it down. I'm paying close attention to where I have scratches on the glass to see if this is where the problem is. The glass run is so bad it is coming down by itself. The anti rattle is crack and broken so bad I'm pretty sure it will come out in small pieces. I just received the anti rattle pieces yesterday from LMC and looks like the original with clips. Or at least what is left of the original. I have already had the glass run for a couple of years. Its going to take a lot of patience for sure. Once again thanks!

 

Yes it can take quite a bit of patience at times. I'm not sure that the long term effects of spray lube are good for the window rubber. But I know it can offer some quick help at least. If the window won't go down very easily there could be a few reasons. One is that the felt surface is worn away and the glass is trying to slide on the bare rubber seal. Another is that the metal guide channel is bent slightly and not as straight as it should be. This is something you may need to adjust. And another is like you said, it has broken pieces and I imagine they are helping bind things up a bit. Another one is that the window is not going down straight or evenly. That is, one end of the window may start to come down before the other end and kind of bind on the way down. This is probably also because of wear on some of the window regulator allowing it to be too loose or it may have loose hold down hardware.
Some times the scratches in the glass are from small stones or sand that gets caught or imbedded into the rubber and felt. I've had some success of cleaning sand or small rocks from the felt by putting a small thin strip of metal between the glass and seal, and running it across the seal side to side so it pushes the debris out.
Thanks for the update. Maybe it won't be all that bad doing the replacement. Just keep plenty of patience on hand.

 

It looks like I got the first one done. I used the better of the two doors as a model for the first one. I didn't know the window has a bracket built onto the glass itself. I had to remove the two front screws and the screw at the bottom to the door that holds the vertical track the window slides up and down on to move the window glass forward towards the front of the truck to remove the anti-rattle pieces. I used a putty knife to as to apply pressure along a greater area so I could pop more of the clips as this stuff was pretty brittle. From what I can tell of the better door, the glass run goes in first then the anti-rattle on top of that. You just about got to have very small hands and arms to work the run into the track that extends below the door opening. But I got that in. I'm taking pictures as I go so someone else will have something to go by it the future. Probably me for memory sakes. Anyway I'll keep everyone posted on how it turns out. Thanks. Don

 

It looks like I now have a working window with new glass run and anti-rattle pieces. I now hope the other goes smoother and faster than the first one. Got a question. Is there something I can put on the channel where the plastic sliders are so it doesn't catch like white lithium grease? Also, is there something to clean it with first to remove what looks to be grease? In the past one window glass was replaced.When I removed the door panel on the first door there was some sort of black paper that had to be removed before access anything in the door. The other door which had the glass replaced does not. Is that some sort of moisture barrier and is it better to have that? Also, what can I do to put something in its place if needed. Thanks.

 

Sorry I didn't get back earlier. Yes you can use some white lithium grease in where the sliders go. You could also ask at some of the better auto parts stores for a grease that would be good in there if lithium isn't available. Some of the newer synthetic grease has some silicone in it which makes it very slippery and it stays the same consistancy in hot and cold weather, so it won't be more difficult to move in the winter. If the sliders catch on something in the track or rail, try to see if it's something that can be smoothed out to help it work better. Could be a glob of sealant or some rust that could be removed. About the black paper, yes it's a moisture barrier and it can be reused if you're careful. It's held in place by some gummy putty that lasts a long time and isn't affected by rain or cold. You could use some double sided tape to hold the barrier in place if you can't reuse some of the old putty. You could also replace the barrier with some heavy weight plastic if the original is gone or too damaged to get reused. Just try to have it cover the same areas that the original paper did. Most newer vehicles have plastic in them now.

 

I found some general purpose lithum. The windows roll a whole lot better. I used some visqueen for moisture barrier. I used a can of Loctite glue spray and went on real good. I now need to find some upholstery plugs to re-mount the door panels. While I had them off I cleaned and sprayed them with vinyl protectorant. Making all this look good now makes the dash look really bad. I haven't found a padded dash replacement but I have seen where LMC has a moulded dash cover. I wonder how good they are? Can't tell much from the catalogue pictures. Thanks.

 

thanks for sharing this. i am looking at doing the same on my 86 ranger. first i need to find that plastic piece that the glass bolts to. mine is broke.

 

Shouldn't be much difference between the 86 and 87. I don't know how hard they are to find. You can probably check with your local auto glass guy to get an idea of availalbility and price and find out exactly what that piece is called and do a search on the internet. Mine look different on both doors and I know the one on the passenger has been changed out. I don't know if it is on this forum or another where someone has shared how to replace these step by step. Mine are pop riveted on like his. He tells of how to user a dremel tool to grind off part of the rivet and or drill out the rest. Then you turn the glass and lift that piece out. I think gettting the plastic piece that holds the glass out of the tracks is a little tough but can be done. Then you reverse the process and pop rivet it back on. I'm extremely pleased with the results. This whole thing looks and operates like brand new. It does take a lot of patience. I also replaced the windshield and gasket and the back glass. I tinted the back glass while it was out. So much easier with it out. Again pleased with the results. I'm going to try and post pics of the truck and window work later this weekend after I figure how to upload. Oh yeah. I also painted the metal windshield trim while it was out. Lots of luck.