I really hope the $1,000 I just spent on a 1964 F350 with the 223 CID I6 and 4 speed transmission turns out to be a good idea. The engine turns over but has no carb (can anyone help me find a carb - update I found one)? How important is it for me to fit the truck with a factory carb - the same model it started with?

Thurston seems to be just getting into a similar project so maybe he can help. But after just reading his posts about rear tires and their spacing, I have no confidence I will get this truck driving down the road again.

 

Post info from your VIN plate so one of the gurus here can decode to determine what your truck was equipped with when built. I am not too familiar with the I-6 engines, but thought the 262 was for larger trucks, although it may have been an option in the one ton. Either way, I would guess it came with an autolite 1100 carb which should be easy to find as it was used over a long time span.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...n3JBhp8w%3D%3D

here is a carburetor listing based on 1964 F350 262 Manual transmission from rock auto, so they are available

 

Thanks both of you for your help so far. I'll post photos once the truck arrives. I'm wondering what the difference is between Autoline and Autolite? Or are they the same? The Autoline C805 is recommended by RockAuto ($207.99), but I found two other carbs:

Carburetor Center recommends an Autolite 1100 ($344.95) and provides two different models for my year and model. https://www.carburetorcenter.com/ford-autolite-1bbl

National Carburetors recommends an Autolite 1100 ($219.95) Carburetor Lookup

Too many options! Carburetor Center's website makes them seem like the best option because they are dedicated to carbs and do the work in the USA?

 

Autoline is most likely a re-builder.

Autolite is a FORD marketing term for the period.

These things must be mage of gold. Hopefully Number Dummy will be along and give you some numbers to look for take-offs.

 

My cousin told me the correct part number for the carb is C4TZ-9510-G, and neither he nor his friend know whether its a Holley or a Motocraft. I've called around and am not having any luck yet. Anyone know where I cam find a C4TZ-9510-G? Much appreciated.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...arburetor.html

 

Thanks! I called Daytona Carburetors and spoke with Tim. He said the correct part number is C4TF-9510-G. He said the C4 means 1964, the T means truck, the F means motor part, the 9510 means carburetor, and the G is the date within the year it was produced (A being early in the year). He said he has a C3TF9510A, but no 64 carbs. Should I keep calling around or go with the 1963? If I’m hell bent on getting the exact carb, what should I do?

 

My '64 has a 292 V8, the shop manual says the correct carb is a C3TF Autolite with a 1.02" venturi etc. Somebody here at FTE once said there's a lot more going on inside a carb than it looks like on the outside, and I think they're right.

Gearing, weight, transmission, differential, they had a gazillion different combos of internal parts they would use from the factory. In most cases the average person who just wants a good running reliable engine will not be able to improve on their overall selection.

Basically so long as the venturi size and booster cluster, power valve, jetting, is the same, should be in real good shape. The shop manual will list all that stuff, match it up or bounce it off the '63 carb and see.

 

C = 1960's decade
4 = 1964
T = Truck
F = Fuel (Engineering PN Only)
9510 = Basic Part No ( Carb)
G = PN Suffix - Which will positively ID Carb Calibration and Application

AUTO-LINE -

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): C3AF9510A, C3AF9510C, C3AFA, C3AFC, C3TF9510A, C3TF9510E, C3TF9510T, C3TF9510Z, C3TFA, C3TFE, C3TFT, C3TFZ, C4AF9510L, C4AF9510S, C4AFL, C4AFS, C4TF9510A, C4TF9510AV, C4TF9510BD, C4TF9510BE, C4TF9510BF, C4TF9510BK, C4TF9510BL, C4TF9510E, C4TF9510K, C4TFA, C4TFAV, C4TFBD, C4TFBE, C4TFBF, C4TFBK, C4TFBL, C4TFE, C4TFK, F11100, F11101

As you can see above, a re-builder will rebuild a carb to cover many applications. If there is any signific changes between applications, how to adjust will be in the INSTR SHEET. Same with a rebuild kit, it will cover several different applications. You use all the original hard parts, replace the soft parts with the kit and then adjust/calibrate the carb to your specific calibration.

NUMBER DUMMY will hopefully be along as he has the period cataloging to hopefully ID the type of carb the engine came through with.

 

I think she isn’t a 262. But here are the photos. If she isn’t, I think I’m happy about it because after reading about them for days they sure seem tough to work with. Does anyone think those Zellner sticker are factory?

Throwing in a pic of me and her, since I know ya’ll are interested.

 

Shows 2 ribs along the pan rail. 262 has 3 ribs along the pan rail. 262 valve cover has 2 bolts to hold it on. Your fuel pump is in the wrong place for a 262 as well. My sons F350 has a 262 in it. We don` think it was in there originally, as the guy who had it rebuilt the truck and used a Clark 5 spd OD tranny too. The truck was a 6 cylinder truck from the factory and looks like his under the hood. One question, is that a 16" radial front tire? The rims look my 16" wheels.

 

Pretty stout looking steed.

Just take your time, buy a gallon of Marvel's Mystery oil, a MoToRs Repair manual and/or the Ford Shop manual.

Before buying a bunch of tune-up and replacement parts clean everything up with the cables and starter and perform a cylinder compression test. Get a baseline going on the basic engine health. Somewhere in there drop the oil pan to inspect the oil screen and general engine cleanliness, evict any rodents that moved in. Pull the valve cover and make sure the pushrods aren't bent, valves aren't sticking etc.

 

Thanks for the guidance. I still need to determine the right carb and purchase. I’d prefer one that was made in 64 for these trucks!

 

Well ... yes and no.

What if, for the sake of argument, the engine is completely lunched? How long has it sat without a carburetor, the intake open to every critter, by the way?

Let's say you do a cylinder compression test and come to find that there's a head gasket leak, three burned valves, one holed piston, several broken rings and a partridge in a pear tree. Not trying to be a Debbie Downer here, but there's a reason the Tune-Up manuals all pretty much say exactly the same thing, in exactly the same order.

So if the engine is unserviceable, you want to know that now, before buying a carburetor (or anything else) - then the question becomes "do I want to rebuild this particular engine" or, maybe find another donor - a completely different engine type, whatever. I'd kind of want to know the condition of the low end if possible too, whether excessively worn main & rod bearings & oil pressure. Compression is only part of the equation.

It's also easy to slip over the line into silliness on this stuff too, and go too far in the "replace everything as long as I'm in there" direction, but it's important I think to hit on the major points first. Just make sure the engine is suitable for even a simple backyard overhaul before spending any money on it.