Okay, I have a 2008 F250 2WD 6.4L. I have been reading and watching videos trying to learn about this Diesel guff. I want to take every preventative step to ensure the life/longevity of my truck. Having said that, I understand changing the oil, fuel filters, removing water from the fuel, etc...all the easy to get stuff.
Here is where things get a bit confusing for me, KEEP IN MIND THAT THIS TRUCK IS NOTHING MORE THAN A DAILY DRIVER FOR ME. I bought this truck because its the only truck out there that actually looks like a truck, and has the amount of room that I like. I will be using this for moving common stuff in the bed. Okay, back on track. As I understand it, in order to improve life expectancy, I need to do EGR delete with a good tuner? Whats a good tuner for my applications? Also, I need to do the DPF delete? Like I said, Im trying to understand all this, just need a little guidance. Thanks all for your help and understanding.

 

ATX, I've had my 08 (first diesel too) for a year now. Haven't deleted, but i really want to. As I understand it you would want to delete the DPF/CAT and add a tuner. I also understand that the tuner will shut down the EGR function so you may not need to delete the EGR it simply will stop functioning.

This forum has endless posts on tuners and which is best. From my reading on this forum it comes down to H&S and Spartan, and I believe H&S tends to be the recommendation on here. I personally would add the H&S Mini Max and a DPF/CAT delete, keeping the stock exhaust tip to keep folks from knowing what I had done (unless they peek under the truck).

 

Thanks for the info. I probably wouldnt do anything until my 5/100 warranty runs out which is May of 2013, even still I may end up going with an extended warranty with USAA, which is a full comprehensive 4/48 warranty with zero deductible.

 

I have 10k left til 100k miles. My biggest hangup on doing the delete and tune is emissions. I am not the guy that can jump under a truck and throw an exhaust on and off when needed (even every other year gives me anxiety). BUT, damn do i want to add that power and get rid of the regens.

 

If maintaining your warranty is an issue or consideration, then out of an abundance of caution you probably shouldn't do a DPF and/or EGR delete/disable and tune.

These trucks, bone stock, will run great if you drive them like you "should". Short trips around town where everything can't get up to operating temperature don't help. Stay on the severe maintenance schedule, use Motorcraft parts/fluids (or those specifically approved by FMC) and you'll be good to go. Because you're required to use ULSD fuel you should absolutely be adding 4 ounces of Ford (diesel) Fuel Treatment with every fill up and make sure to drain your fuel/water separator at least once a month.

Track your mileage carefully with Fuelly(.com) and seriously considering a Fumoto valve during your next oil change so you can send samples to Blackstone and see how your truck's running...

When/if you do decide to tune, there's no going back and there's a lot of supporting vendors here who can help, but don't expect an 5-6 MPG increase in mileage or your dealer to cover your powertrain when you've added 150-300+ HP over stock!

 

Well put....where ya been haven't seen you around in a while?

 

Thanks for the reply. About the draining of the fuel/water separator, should I drain once a month if it needs it or not? Reading the manual there is an indicator that notifies when to do so.

 

Always once a month and be sure to change the filters every 10K with OEM only filters.

 

Been around like a donut...and Battlefield 3 came out!

Sometimes I read more than post too, and that's not a bad thing...

 

^^^ WHS, verbatim! Bad/watery/contaminated fuel in a diesel (especially in a high pressure/common-rail system like we have) can be very damaging and get real expensive, real fast. There's plenty of stories of members with fuel system related horror stories and Ford won't hesitate to take a sample of the fuel or check the filters (and the factory installed ones have a special stamp on them so they'll know if they've been changed...at least once!) and deny warranty for bad maintenance, crappy fuel or both...

If you can get your fuel from a truck stop or a station where there's a lot of fuel turnover, even better. I typically fuel up at the oil/fuel company which also has an inline filter on the pump and changes it when needed 'cause I'm the guy who always reminds them to!

Did I mention to use Ford Fuel Treatment RELIGIOUSLY?! Buy a case and always have a bottle handy, the lubricity of ULSD is horrible and the FFT works (and will help your mileage a lil bit and every lil bit counts).

 

Funny you mention that, I was talking to them today about a change on my auto policy and they mentioned that they were offering those warranties, and I just started laughing...my first mod to ANY vehicle typically involves directly voiding the warranty!

 

Their warranties may be a lil higher, but they are second to none I tell ya. They are full bumper to bumper warranties, minus the nit noid stuff. If you break down out of town, they put you in a hotel, and allowance for food, etc. They are the bees knees

 

I got the kit from spartan, came with tuner, exhaust, intake, and it is the best.

Truck runs absolutely better, mileage up a bit, and definately recommended.

It sounds like you don't really run you're truck hard, so you'd benefit even more than I, so you really should get on it.

 

Your correct Parkland...I don't run it hard at all. I want to get all my options laid out when the factory 5/100 runs out. Spend the money on deletes/tuner or pay 5K for 4yr/48,000 full coverage extended warranty. They seem to get ya comin or goin!

 

I'd go the tuner route.

The way you're driving the truck, you will always have issues with the emission parts.

Warranty is overrated, IMHO. 5000$ is a lot of cash for warranty for only 48,000 miles.

The tuner will disable the EGR and DPF system, but it would be nice to actually remove the junk from under my hood one day.

Even with the tuner, You should get it out on the open road now and again to get it working hard and hot, get any moisture boiled out of the oil.