Hi,

is there anyone who modified his 4.9 with a 500 Edelbrock, Offy DP and EFI haeders, NO heatplate, and got power gain ? A lot of sixbangers absolutely recommended the heatplate. Will fab one if there`s no way without it.
Who was successful without it ?? Why are they not available on the aftermarket if they are so important ?? Please don`t kill me for my request, I`m just a clueless Kraut looking for some support from specialists
Here in germany just very few mod. their straight six4.9 so it`s hard to get informations. (If they have a straight six at all, most prefer V8`s and laugh at us "little sixbangers" cause they don`t know anything about the "power from the basement machine"
My ignition is duraspark II and the module has a yellow strain relief.
Ignition works but I don`t know does a module with the blue relief work better or any different ?? Cheers to ya all
Scott

 

It's not an absolute necessity, but my truck runs significantly better now with heat to the bottom of the intake plenum. Not more power, per se, but smoothed out some flat spots I was never able to tune out before.

 

Have you tried the heated carb spacer?

 

Allright, that's all I wanted.
I just have to fab one ;-)
Thank you very much.
Scott

 

No not yet, is it an aftermarket part ?

 

+

I used a carb spacer like the one in this thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-please-4.html

Ordered mine from ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thunderbird-...sories&vxp=mtr

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-tricks.html

There are pictures of a heat plate posted in that sticky. JMO, the heated carb spacer heats the carb but does little for heating the manifold. In a warm enough climate one might get along without either. It takes very little to fabricate or have one fabricated compared to the grief of trying to get a carb dialed in to overcome the problem...it just can't be done that way.

 

A clueless Kraut? And here I had hoped that my Kraut ancestry (a Schmidt from Frankfurt, about 175 years ago) would someday assert itself and make me LESS clueless. Dang!!

I'm with Harte, and don't see how a heated carb-spacer could be nearly as good as heating the bottom of the manifold, plus it might aggravate any tendency to vapor-lock during hot summer operations. I have fabricated and welded water-jacketing to the bottoms of two manifolds now, for two local guys with Jeeps and aftermarket manifolds (but not a D-P, yet). Bolt the aluminum intake manifold to a head, preheat the whole assembly in an oven to 175-200F, weld with TIG or a spoolgun using 4043, let slow-cool, test for water leaks, and finally, re-machine as necessary. The water jacketing is basically a shallow box made from a length of aluminum rectangular tube, 1/8" wall, with one side cut out of it, and with a couple of dividers tack-welded inside to make the water flow through a circuitous route, staying in the manifold longer. I told the owners to experiment with different sized inlet/outlet fittings for more or less water flow. Only one guy has tried his manifold at all. Says he likes it, but of course has no hard numbers before-and-after. I expect to do more of these, might come up with numbers. No, I don't know how to do pictures yet, and always forget to take any during the interesting projects (see "clueless," above.

It is certainly possible that adding a carb-spacer might improve some aspects of engine performance even without it being heated. That would be something the owners of such spacers could test for us . . . . BTW, Clifford Reseach ("6=8") used to be the chief vendor of those heated spacers, which Jack Clifford might have invented.

 

[quote=sunnybottomboys.de;11632521]

A lot of sixbangers absolutely recommended the heatplate. Will fab one if there`s no way without it.
Who was successful without it ?? Why are they not available on the aftermarket if they are so important ??

On the bottom of many aftermarket intake manifolds, there is an area designed to mate with the original Ford exhaust manifold. The two manifolds were to be joined together with a gasket between them, just like the original intake/exhaust manifolds. The heat from the exhaust helped keep the intake charge in a gaseous state inside the intake manifold, prior to being burned.

The aftermarket manifold has much more volumn, since designed for a 4 barrel carburetor, which causes the velocity to greatly decrease. This, combined with no direct heat [when using EFI manifolds or headers] allows the incoming charge to condense on the intake manifold walls and bottom which causes havoc with the air/fuel mixture. Remember, drops of gasoline do not burn like vapor.

The newer Clifford manifolds offer a built-in tube where hot water is routed to heat the intake manifold. Older Cliffords and Offenhauser manifolds do not have this feature.

The manifolds were originally designed prior to the introduction of fuel injection, so the exhaust was not separate from the intake manifold.

As suggested, the addition of the heating plate [mounted to the bottom of the intake manifold] will enhance drivability on an otherwise good running engine.

You are on the right track, but it will be good when someone can give a definitive answer regarding the use of your present yellow vs. blue module. Everything I have ever read states to use the blue [but, I can't remember why, unless it has to do with calibration and emissions].

 

Raso Enterprises Auto Parts

That outfit makes them but I think they are only for MOPAR applications. The price would indicate to me that they are quite proud of them.

If carb icing is a problem the heated spacer might be called for. In my area the conditions for carb icing are prevalent but I have yet to have a problem using manifold heat with a 360* open air cleaner and no heat stove. My carb is bolted directly to the DP manifold without any spacer.

 

I want some of what those folks at Raso are smoking. I had a local welder fab up a plate for me out of a piece of 1/4" aluminum and a couple of heater elbows I got from a local rod shop. Total cost was $30.



Never used a carb heat plate, but I'm in Texas and don't have to worry about the carb icing. Even in summer the manifold heat helps.

 

That looks really good, Baron. I'm still on the fence on to make my own or to order one from truckmeblue.com. However, I just visited that site and it isn't up again. So, I'm not sure what is going on there. Your build looks great and I might just have to copy it. ;-)

 

Look up F-250 restorer...he is intimately acquainted with truckmeblue.com. Send him a message...he may be able to help.

 

Thank you for that tidbit of information!

 

On the Duraspark, read down near the bottom about the dual-mode Duraspark. I have not run across one myself, but you may have sensors hokked up I know nothing about. Not susposed to be interchangable, all I have ever used is the blue module. Jeep CJ Duraspark Ignition Module
Yes, I know it's a Jeep forum, but it is talking about the diff modules.