Same thing happen to me,

Flushed (drain and filled) the coolant hoping to get a better ECT/EOT spread. Before the flush the differnce was between 11* to 13*, sometimes it went past 15* but came down within a few minutes.

I did used 1/2 gal of restore and 1/2 gallon of restore plus. Coolant back in is 3.5 gallon of Zerex G-05. I used about 35 gal of distilled water to clear the old fluid.

Now the ECT hoovering around 184* to 190* and the EOT went to 220*, sometimes more. I change the thermostat from Tousley Ford, same temp. Switch the ECT/EOT sensors, same thing. Await new sensors to see if the sensors are bad. Doesn't look like the sensors are bad since the cold soak temp were +/- of each other.

I will have to try the back flush to see if it helps. So far, I do not see many successful back flush that last long enough on this forum.

I am preparing myself that a new EGR cooler and Oil cooler maybe needed soon.

Question:

- If I buy oil cooler from Tousley Ford, what bullet proof EGR cooler do I buy from Bullet Proof Diesel? There are two list on the web site for engine build after 9/22/03.

I don't know for sure my excursion engine was build after 9/22/03 since the FICM sticker is gone. But the VIN sticker is June 04.

-Does the oil cooler came with everything needed to do the replacement?

-What about the EGR cooler, which one to buy and does it come with all the gaskets? or pay another $134.95 for the gaskets?

-How much if the factory EGR cooler anyway? Can't find it on Tousley web site.

Sorry for the long post

 

if ur gonna buy the egr cooler from bulletproof diesel, call them and enquire about it. they'll help u pick out the right one. also enquire if it comes wif the o-rings and all the other good stuff. lol.

 

I know that! Need to know/learn a little more on these subject before calling them. Don't want to call them and say hey I need the best EGR cooler you have. How much? Here my credit card number.

I like to know what's so special about the bullet proof? Are there any other after market EGR cooler? What about after market oil cooler? general consent so far is no after market oil cooler that's better that the factory sand casting, correct? Which I will have to replace it again...

 

i tink they're welded egr coolers on the inside, so everything passes easier. them ones dont have the beehive plates inside the egr cooler tat the stock ones will have.

i believe bulletproof diesel also makes an aftermarket oil cooler as well.

 

Snuggy,

I saw that bullet proof web site has bullet proof oil cooler too. But how come not too many on this forum recommend it?

How much work involve in doing this? I have discovered that my tools box, which can handle a tear down of a chevy V8 and rebuild, don't have enough tools for this 6.0L diesel. And I have not touch/use any tools for at least 8 yrs. It is tough working on engine again after so long, especially had to climb up a latter to se the engine

 

Peek under the intake manifold on the passenger side and you can tell if the EGR cooler is round or square. That's the only difference.

AFA the Bulletproof oil cooler it requires the removal of the factory oil cooler which is a water to oil exchanger and is replaced with an air cooler that mounts to the front of the condensor. I highly recommend it, but it's a little expensive for most folks. You can read more on the bulletproof website what's involved in changing it. They are extremely knowledgeable folks there.

 

I bought the bullet proof oil cooler and wouldn't do it any other way. So +1 on it. I also deleted my egr cooler while I was in there. The kit they sell is only lacking the miscellaneous gaskets and such, either buy them separate or purchase their "professional kit" that comes with the intake gaskets,egr gaskets, oil filter, fuel filters upgraded oil turbo line drain tube. The bullet proof products are highly recommended, it's more of a price point thing, most people opt to replace the oil cooler for a couple hundred over the 2k for the bullet proof one

 

I ended up with the same scenario as your's. EOT was up in the 20 spread after coolant replace. I did a backflush through the oil cooler plate and I now have 3 to 5 spread not pulling, steady drive on highway. It has been over 2000 miles now. The most crap I had was in the radiator, I could not see the end of flakes comming out.

Now the rad is clean, BUT, it leaks now from the plastic to rad joint, do not know if the cleaner screwed up the rad seal or too much pressure from back flushing. I will order a Bullet proof aluminun radiator.

Maybe I was just lucky, maybe it will not last, but I tried it and it work for now. When I backflush, I let the big rad hose disconnected, let engine plug removed, right block heater removed (so you do not have to remove the starter, thanks Mike Chan) and I jerk the water line with and open/close valve quickly.

I always flush the rad with bottom line disconnected so no crap goes back in the engine, and plug the bottom rad outlet fill up/let go, fill up/let go, ect.

If things start to go bad again, it will defenitly be a bullet proof EGR cooler and oil cooler. I also switched to Rotella ELC, no more silicate in my engine.

Good luck

 

Raptor131,

Bullet proof oil cooler and delete EGR cooler. Does this menat you have to delete the EGR also?

Thanks,

 

npccpartsman,

Does the bullet proof oil cooler require any modification to the installation or is it a direct bolt in?

Thanks,

 

Kiddoo,

That's what I am afraid of, doing a full blown back flush require a lot of time and additional parts; which has to be done anyway before replacing the oil cooler...

I was counting on my mechanic (my brother) to help me work on replacing these parts. I told him before I bought the Excursion and he said Ok (this is my first diesel). After he saw that you have to climb up a latter to work on the engine, he told me good luck working on your new toy

 

No you do not! You can keep the stock egr cooler if you desire, the bullet proof oil cooler they sell is designed to replace only the defective design of the oil coolers in stock form from a coolant conduction type to air conduction type, the egr solution is a separate issue For your consideration, but should be made prior to the work as the same amount of labor is required to get to the egr cooler. There are several options available for the egr solution: a modified fortified stock unit deemed bullet proof that has a lifetime warranty IIRC then they have a "stock looking" welded delete that is welded internally but from the outside it looks stock, then they have kits at separate sites that you remove the up pipe that directs the exhaust to the egr cooler called the scoop for a replacement pipe that is solid with no scoop. Then once you remove the egr cooler it has plugs to cover the openings in the intake manifold and a hose that routes the coolant back to the motor from the oil cooler


Hope this clears it up for you.

 

It is a direct replacement, once the stock unit is removed. And you remove the stock resivoir screen and clean it all up the BPD unit just bolts right up and be sure to follow their instructions carefully, the passenger side hose must be connected to the replacement oil cooler prior to starting the install of the intake manifold

I have some pics in my gallery from my job

 

They have complete installation instructions on their website. BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0. I urge you to read those and consider your level of mechanical experience before you tackle it.

 

Thanks npccpartsman,

I printed out the instructions, seem like a lot of work. I wouldn't do this alone but with other people I know with more experience can help me with this if I ever go to route.

Still contemplate on why Ford/Navistar couldn't or wouldn't design this for all this years in production of 6.0L.