Just spent the entire evening researching this here and elsewhere, so I'm looking for verification...

MY TRUCK- early 99 extended cab, rwabs, manufacture date of 2/98. Hub bearings are shot and I am planning to replace the rotors while doing this.

Numerous searches say I can use the post-3/99 hub assemblies if I also use later rotors (say, from a 2000). If this is correct, this is the route I want to take.

Autozone says the Timken 515021 hub assembly fits post-3/22/99 SRW trucks with 2-wheel ABS. Is this what I am after?

This is a no-modification process, right? Just bolt in the 515021 hubs, slap on some rotors for a 2000 and call it a day, right?

 

You are correct, part number and all. My early '99 hub bearings were going out and that's what I did. Bought the "late '99" hub bearings and brake discs and they bolted right up without any problems.

From what I understand the later hub bearings have a different offset on the flange then the earlier ones, so the later disc rotors simply compensate for that fact and allow the brake disc to be positioned in the same place as before. There are a few other differences as well, such as flange thikness. If you put them side by side you can see the difference between them and how putting the old brake disc on would cause problems with clearances with the caliper brackets.

BTW, if you want to save some money, order your bearings from stockwiseauto, that's where I got mine and they were about $60 cheaper per side than autozone or any other brick and mortar parts store in my town.

 

Thanks for the verification. This is the way I'm going then! Also, thanks for the link.

I can get the "Precision" brand a little cheaper, but everything in my gut says to go with the Timkens.

 

Could I get a verification that the correct rotor would be the 13-ish inch rotor? Apparently there is a 14 1/2 inch rotor too.

Again, thanks!

 

Don't go with the Precision brand rotors, I ordered those at first but Amazon couldn't seem to get me a matching pair after 3 tries, they sent me one precision and then the other one was some other even cheaper brand. I found out later that they are fairly cheap and not the best quality. Also, they don't come with the replacement hub bearing to knuckle studs and the yellow seal like the Timkens do.

The 13 inch rotors are correct. The 14" rotors were used on F-450s and 15" rotors were used on the F53 motorhome chassis.

 

RockAuto Auto Parts is another place for good prices and parts.

 

Agreed! And they have a very helpful parts finder, I used them to find a lot of my parts when I did my ball joints/hub bearing replacement.

 

I went with the Timkens. I did the same thing when I was doing the tie rods & steering linkage- I'd say "I can get (insert store brand here) for this much cheaper" then ended up going all Moog anyway. I'm still researching and buying parts- I'm pretty much replacing all the wearable stuff on the front end before getting an alignment and new tires.

So far, Amazon has been cheapest on most of the parts.

 

Parts already on: Moog tie rod ends, Moog steering arm ends and Moog adjusting sleeves.
Parts ready to go on: Timken hub bearing assemblies, rotors and pads (haven't decided which yet), axle U-joints...

Anyone know the part numbers for the seals while I'm in there (not the ones inside the diff)? I may as well do it complete and do it right...

 

What's the advantage to going to the late model hubs?

-Ryan

 

The later model hubs are MUCH cheaper than the early '99 hubs. I was able to get two late model hubs and the required late model brake rotors for less than the cost of one early '99 hub. Now in the future if I have a another hub bearing go out I can simply replace it with an easy to find, and cheaper, late model hub and not touch anything else.

 

Ok. Thanks. How can I tell if I already have them on my truck (late 99 hubs)? I think I may bc my e99 rotors are hitting my caliper brackets and not allowing the rotor and hub to spin. I wanna be sure that what is going on though so I know I don't have a other problem elsewhere. Is there a different measurement or something I can check? Thanks

-Ryan

 

You can tell by the flange thickness, if my memory is correct the old hubs were 10mm while the later ones were 13mm. It does sound like that is your problem though if your caliper brackets are hitting the rotor.

 

Just to clarify. The flange that bolts to the knuckle correct?

 

I can't remember to be honest, I'm at work though right now so I can't really look it up since all my references are at home.