to rebuild or not to rebuild
#1
to rebuild or not to rebuild
Ok here is my dillema......
My 66 f100 has the original 352 and the original carb...
the carb leaks like a boat with a hole in it,
I know the carb has been rebuilt a couple of times,
is it really worth rebuilding it again or should i just get
a new one?
I know i cant make up my mind
So you tell me what would you do ???
My 66 f100 has the original 352 and the original carb...
the carb leaks like a boat with a hole in it,
I know the carb has been rebuilt a couple of times,
is it really worth rebuilding it again or should i just get
a new one?
I know i cant make up my mind
So you tell me what would you do ???
#2
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Sun River St. George
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 0
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6 Posts
to rebuild or not to rebuild
I like Edelbrock and now JEGS sells a rebuilt for less than 200 bucks. I also like 4V manifolds, Ford or Edelbrock. The biggest problem with the Ford units is weight, 77 pounds. I use an engine hoist to remove or install these manifolds. They are plentiful and work really well on truck motors. I found a 4V truck manifold laying on the ground at my local pull-a-part and snagged it for 30 bucks. It is on my truck today with my 1405 Edelbrock and this combination pulls like a "Hoss".
#3
to rebuild or not to rebuild
Hey William:
If I am not mistaken, the E-brock is built on the basis of a Carter??? Was there any special tricks you had to apply to get it dialed in? The one I had on an old muscle car was kinder than the Holley that drowned it out... I have just picked up an "S" code manifold myself and looking for the perfect 4-brl to top it off.
--MG
If I am not mistaken, the E-brock is built on the basis of a Carter??? Was there any special tricks you had to apply to get it dialed in? The one I had on an old muscle car was kinder than the Holley that drowned it out... I have just picked up an "S" code manifold myself and looking for the perfect 4-brl to top it off.
--MG
#4
to rebuild or not to rebuild
Edelbrock AFB's are breeze to dial in.They usually run right out of the box and only require an idle speed adjustment.
To tune the carb, warm engine, and attach a tachometer to the engine.
Now adjust the idle speed as low as it will go. Adjust the left mixture screw until the highest idle is reached.
Readjust the idle speed to the lowest it will go and repeat the procedure on the right mixture screw.
Readjust idle to the final idle speed to the specs in your manual.
To adjust thottle response and the high speed circuit, remove the two small screws located on the top of the air horn and remove the small metalpates. Remove the metering rods and springs and replace with parts from Edelbrock. They offer several different rod sizes and springs to dial the carb in.
To tune the carb, warm engine, and attach a tachometer to the engine.
Now adjust the idle speed as low as it will go. Adjust the left mixture screw until the highest idle is reached.
Readjust the idle speed to the lowest it will go and repeat the procedure on the right mixture screw.
Readjust idle to the final idle speed to the specs in your manual.
To adjust thottle response and the high speed circuit, remove the two small screws located on the top of the air horn and remove the small metalpates. Remove the metering rods and springs and replace with parts from Edelbrock. They offer several different rod sizes and springs to dial the carb in.
#5
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Sun River St. George
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 0
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6 Posts
to rebuild or not to rebuild
Absolutley Great advice! My Ebok has not been touched since I put it on over 30K miles and now sits on my new engine. Never needed to mess with this carburetor. I really appreciate stuff that works like it should and does that for a long time. I do use a coolant heated spacer instead of the poly spacers and I also use a exhaust heat riser. No special tricks with this carb, honestly it does what it should.
#6