78 Bronco Build/Resurrect
#16
#17
You don't have to go to gear drive to get "straight up" timing. Cloyes, Edelbrock & some others make chain timing sets that can be timed for 4* retard like original, or straight up to give a boost to power.
#18
I know it doesn't have to be the gear drive but I always liked the sound of the noisy gears. I know it serves no purpose. I would probably get irritated with it anyways. I'll probably just get to that one later. I want to get this thing running driveable again and start getting to the axles which should be my next big project as soon as the motor is running.
#19
I think the radiator, the bigger one might have been with the towing package where it is required for more cooling, i don't know about supercool name but it is probably the heavy duty one. Just make sure it isn't leaking. I like the green on the motor is that a 400? I planned on painting my valve covers and oil pan green but a bit darker than yours. I also did my track bar for steering green
#20
I think the radiator, the bigger one might have been with the towing package where it is required for more cooling, i don't know about supercool name but it is probably the heavy duty one. Just make sure it isn't leaking. I like the green on the motor is that a 400? I planned on painting my valve covers and oil pan green but a bit darker than yours. I also did my track bar for steering green
#21
Good good, wish i could pull my 400 and rebuild it but that is a project i don't want to take on... I love this truck but man after the tranny ordeal pulling a motor doesn't sound fun. The only better parts are that i am pulling the motor up rather dropping it down to the floor with a scissoring tranny jack.
#22
Great Thread. I will be following and ready when you start getting rid of parts as my 79 is missing a few things here and there.
The larger radiator looks just like the one from my old 78 460 with A/C, so I guess that would be the super cool?
Good luck and keep posting the updates.
The larger radiator looks just like the one from my old 78 460 with A/C, so I guess that would be the super cool?
Good luck and keep posting the updates.
#23
I spent about 6 hours today with the bronco. It's amazing what you can get done in such a short amount of time.
I started today with the transmission. I dropped the pan and realized the PO used a bead of RTV on the trans pan that protruded about half an inch into the pan. There was quite a bit of sludge in there. I cleaned it thoroughly and replaced the filter and gasket. (no rtv of course).
I moved on to the modulator. There was trans fluid all the way up the vacuum line so I know it went bad. Plus, it wasn't even hand tight. It got replaced.
The last thing was the pump seal. I don't think it was bad but I was already in there and its a cheap seal to go out. It was easy anyways. Here is one of them in case anyone wondered what they look like:
After the trans was serviced, I decided to drop in the motor. I have a few tips for those who haven't done it. First of all, ask a friend to come over and help. I was alone and it sucked. Second, get a load leveler with the four chains with tabs on them. I couldn't have done it without it. Third, with an automatic, use the bolts with the heads cut off to align the motor to the trans. Put them in the top two bellhousing holes. Fourth, make sure that you have the studs from the torque converter almost aligned with the holes in the flex plate. I turned the crank so that I could view the bolt hole through the opening from the starter. Don't force it in, you will be sorry. If everything is lined up and you used the headless bolts on the top two bellhousing holes, it will just drop right in. Four of the bolts are accessible through the wheel wells. This can be done with one person but it sucks. Get help if you can, even if they have no experience, they can at least raise and lower the motor with the cherry picker while you get everything aligned.
Here is how she sits now. It was getting dark so its a little grainy.
The "Still To Do" list:
*Install the new and improved larger radiator
*Add the extra electric fan, (pushing)
*Go to the parts bronco and steal the transmission kickdown stuff and put it on this one
*Mount carburetor
*Install new radiator hoses and fill cooling system with distilled water
*Find a nipple for the lines going to the heater core. (this motor is missing the one that attaches to the block right below the thermostat housing.
*Mount new battery brackets and new battery cables
*Wire alternator
*Re-attach headers and exhaust
*Hook up all 642 vacuum lines. (not really that many, I got rid of all the tree hugger stuff)
*Re-attach power steering pump and top it off with fluid.
*Install flex fan and new drive belts
*Wire up new tachometer
*Get rid of the bad electric fuel pump that left me stranded twice and replace with in-line fuel filter.
*Index and install new spark plugs. (easier to install the headers without the plugs in place)
*I think I need to replace the oil pan. I sort of had an "oops" with the engine on the lift.
I think that just about covers it. Any wisdom or advice is welcomed.
I started today with the transmission. I dropped the pan and realized the PO used a bead of RTV on the trans pan that protruded about half an inch into the pan. There was quite a bit of sludge in there. I cleaned it thoroughly and replaced the filter and gasket. (no rtv of course).
I moved on to the modulator. There was trans fluid all the way up the vacuum line so I know it went bad. Plus, it wasn't even hand tight. It got replaced.
The last thing was the pump seal. I don't think it was bad but I was already in there and its a cheap seal to go out. It was easy anyways. Here is one of them in case anyone wondered what they look like:
After the trans was serviced, I decided to drop in the motor. I have a few tips for those who haven't done it. First of all, ask a friend to come over and help. I was alone and it sucked. Second, get a load leveler with the four chains with tabs on them. I couldn't have done it without it. Third, with an automatic, use the bolts with the heads cut off to align the motor to the trans. Put them in the top two bellhousing holes. Fourth, make sure that you have the studs from the torque converter almost aligned with the holes in the flex plate. I turned the crank so that I could view the bolt hole through the opening from the starter. Don't force it in, you will be sorry. If everything is lined up and you used the headless bolts on the top two bellhousing holes, it will just drop right in. Four of the bolts are accessible through the wheel wells. This can be done with one person but it sucks. Get help if you can, even if they have no experience, they can at least raise and lower the motor with the cherry picker while you get everything aligned.
Here is how she sits now. It was getting dark so its a little grainy.
The "Still To Do" list:
*Install the new and improved larger radiator
*Add the extra electric fan, (pushing)
*Go to the parts bronco and steal the transmission kickdown stuff and put it on this one
*Mount carburetor
*Install new radiator hoses and fill cooling system with distilled water
*Find a nipple for the lines going to the heater core. (this motor is missing the one that attaches to the block right below the thermostat housing.
*Mount new battery brackets and new battery cables
*Wire alternator
*Re-attach headers and exhaust
*Hook up all 642 vacuum lines. (not really that many, I got rid of all the tree hugger stuff)
*Re-attach power steering pump and top it off with fluid.
*Install flex fan and new drive belts
*Wire up new tachometer
*Get rid of the bad electric fuel pump that left me stranded twice and replace with in-line fuel filter.
*Index and install new spark plugs. (easier to install the headers without the plugs in place)
*I think I need to replace the oil pan. I sort of had an "oops" with the engine on the lift.
I think that just about covers it. Any wisdom or advice is welcomed.
#25
It is funnier now than right after it happened. I was sort of backwards as I was lowering the motor and reached back to stop it from lowering. Well, I wasn't thinking and if you are reaching backwards from an awkward position, the valve is also backwards. I sort of let it lower wide open instead of stopping it from lowering. The oil plug smacked right on the engine perch and dented it in about an inch and a half. Bummer, I guess I'll just have to get one of those fancy oil pans now.
#26
Here is a few pictures of the parts bronco. I plan on letting the entire body minus the camper shell go with the frame. If you guys see anything you need, just let me know. They don't really rust as bad here as they do in most places. It's usually less than 10 percent humidity and we are usually in drought.
#27
Do you know in specific what parts that I might be able to send your way? I know of lots of stuff on there now that I won't be using. As I said before, I would rather you guys get all the parts than for anything to get scrapped. They are not making anymore of these I have plenty of pictures. Maybe I'll post them on this thread.
Most of my missing and damaged parts are for the tailgate and interior. I still think you have a great project there and I will let you know if I notice anything that I'm missing that you might have. Keep up the great work, and I completely agree on having a friend (or 3) come over for major parts install or removal work.
#28
#29
Just a small rant. I have a great selection of nuts and bolts from stainless, grade 8, and cheapees. All I needed was to replace one of the missing bolts holding the motor and trans together. I of course do not have that one. I went to two different Lowes and finally found the one I needed at Home Depot. I picked up lots of them seeing as how I don't have that specific size and length. I don't have as much time to work on the bronco as I would like so I take advantage of every chance I get. Since I spent a couple of hours finding the right bolt, I didn't get anything done.
#30