I have a "06" F350, with 106k miles. just out of warranty.... Figures...!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
It has the 5r110w torqshift, while traveling down the highway this winter "COLD OUT" about 55 mph I slightly accelerated and the tranny felt like is shifted into neutral. I pulled over and stopped. If I shifted it into reverse or forward, it would rock the truck slightly in each direction... Slightly. I have replaced the internal wiring harness, and the "A" and "D" solenoids, both filters disconnected the batteries for a day. Restarted it and it does the same thing. pulled the SCT tuner out and hooked it up to get DTC codes and NADA. No codes. Pressed the tow light and it starts flashing. the only other thing I found was the ECM controller wiring harness closest to the tranny was not locked down completely, but it was still seated, just the locking mechanism was not locked. Fluid was a little dark red when drained, and round magnet in pan was holding some very fine grey material.<o></o>
I am the second owner of this truck so I do not know if this magnet was added or original. It looks like a washer about 1.125" inside dia. and 1.5" outside and about .250 thick.
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Now What do I do!
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Is it a different solenoid?
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I read something about a snap ring.
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Man-O-man, this truck is like an accident prone child. Something is always going wrong.<o></o>

 

First you disconnected the batteries, THEN checked for codes? No wonder you don't have codes. You erased them when you disconnected the batteries. Disconnecting the batteries doesn't help fix things, it just eliminates clues so nobody can diagnose what's wrong.

All I can do is guess since there are no codes. My guess is something mechanical broke inside the trans. Wiring harnesses and solenoids are not going to fix this.

 

Shouldn't it duplicate the codes once you restart the vehical. I know a faulty egr will resurface, as will a o2 sensor, after the battery was disconnected. So Why is a transmission so different! I do not believe your statement is correct! the codes shoud reappear if a problem. and why the blinking tow light. Anyone else out there?

 

When my tow/haul was flashing...my transmission was COOKED!

 

Wow... where do I start...? First of all, he is a retired TRANSMISSION ENGINEER, therefore he might have a little creditability to his statement. You think?? You can and probably will get those codes to comeback after driving the truck for a while. Again, disconnecting batteries fixes nothing! You need to know what codes you have stored in the TCM so you'll know where to start, not just throw parts at things...Very costly parts I might add.

Also when that, snap ring you're referring to goes out, it takes the rest of the transmission with it. Which is exactly what happened to me snowplowing a year ago.

 

Then I stand corrected by the transmission expert.

Want me to tell you why the codes won't come back immediately? That was my job for several years. I know the answer, but I don't think you want to hear it.

 

It needs to "learn" the problems.... No different than getting the codes back from an engine malfunction. It needs "X" number of drive cycles.

 

Ok, Thanks for all the input so far. Didn't mean to offend anyone. This is just a frustrationg issue. I did get codes about 2 weeks before the truck quit moving, I researched the codes on the various forums and they indicated that it was the "A" and "D" solenoids and or the wiring harness was at fault. Also, if in tow mode and and towing, it downshifted below 4th the Tow light would start to flash . This was all before the trans finally quit. tomorrow I will renew my VCM software and see what it tells me. If this give you more of a overview and think you may have a solution please feel free to chime in. Again didn't mean to offend. It dows move ever so slightly in the direcetion of gear Reverse or Forward from neutral. makes me believe maybe a torqu converter. Will teh VCM tell em anything or do I need to take it to a trans shop?

 

If you opt not to take it to the dealer, make sure that it is serviced by a place that is familiar with the Torqshift and not just "transmissions". Otherwise it may cost you twice.
My vote would be the dealer.

 

i agree with the guys here, especially wif mark on this. our car's various computers stores codes but disconnecting the batteries resets the entire system automatically. hence, no codes on show when u plug in the scanner later.

i believe u could drive it for a while, i tink bout 500 miles, to let the original codes come back again.

i dont tink the A & D solenoids resolve ur main problem. from wat it sounds like, it's more mechanical than electrical. it might be ur clutch plate going out even.

if u shift ur p-r-n-d-l (prindle) stick, and u take ur foot off the brake, it's supposed to move slightly. tats normal. now when u depress the accelerator, it's supposed to giddy-up and go. lol.

calm down. freaking out isnt going to solve ur probs. a cool calm perspective is needed to help u focus on the problems and narrow it down to resolve it collectively and efficiently.

i used to be like tat, and i had to learn the hard way ($10000), and now i'm the wiser for it. i hope u dont turn out like me and make a rash and hasty decision. we're here for u. getting worked up is not gonna fix ur prob. i know these guys will do their best.

 

WOW, I think Mark is one of our best transmission guys on here.

If he answered anything about a transmission I sure would listen.

 

If the Torq converter was going it will drag the engine down at Idel in gear and you should hear it

has it had a hard time Ideling recently

a bad TC will also produce a Shutter feeling

I didnt see you mention these symtoms so I doubt its the TC

 

Welcome to FTE judeski I see you have already been introduced to Mark.