Well, you must determine if you're getting power to the pump. A multi-meter or at least a test light is required to do that. Try the whack test. Take a runner mallet or similar and whack the bottom of the tank in the area of the pump. See if it starts working. mine did, temporarily, like 10 minutes. I can get the connector pinout for you to test it if you have a meter or light, and a helper.

 

Ok going to whack the bottom of the pump this morning and see what happens !!! I do have a tester light so that is a plus ,,,, Also some number twelve wire to try and run a connection to pump from battery to see if it will make a sound ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Is it possible , just possible ,, that the PCM could be stuck as they say ,, reaching here a little I know , going to try the whack test first ,, then proceed to pump terminals ,,I honestly don't think it could be anything else ,,,, Oh by the way ,, what does it mean when you change out bulb in dash (air bag light ) and the beeping doesn't stop ( go away ) , did do that yesterday and had to change Key lock cylinder out while at it ,,, was surprised when the beeping sound didn't go away !!! Very hard to hear if pump energizes with that beeping ,, Guess that is a sure sign the clock spring must be replaced I take it , to get it to stop! Will check back here a little later this morn and let you know where I'm at in this saga !!!!

 

You changed the SRS indicator lamp and there's still beeping???? Ok, if you changed the bulb then you're getting a code flashed?

My bragging about not ever getting a defective fuel pump just bit me in the butt. Put it in last Saturday, haven't moved the truck an inch, and went to start it this morning and NO FREAKIN PUMP WHIRRING! Plugged in my spare center tank pump......bzzzzzzzz! So I pulled it back out. Man I'm glad there's no bed on my truck! I'd have been ready to strangle the seller. Now to see if he makes it good, quickly!

 

Yep same flashing code , now I don't know if it takes a special bulb, but it looks like a standard #161 dash bulb ,, so I switched a good bulb around in place of it ,, but that didn't stop the Beeping ,,, I even removed the connector from the inertia and used a paper clip to by pass it in hopes it would at least make a sound from the pump , but that did not work either . spent most of the day trying to trace all grounds down , know that the fuses and relays are at least getting power with tester ,,, Ok here is a question,,, even tried switching fuel selector on dash(front to back ) the fuel gauge when on rear tank went way past the full mark ,(way past!!!) does that mean that pump is bad as well???? Down to pump its self now ,,, Gee,, have to drain half a tank out ,, then take straps off to lower tank to get to the pump,,( have no one to help take the bed off ) so have to do it the hard way ,,,, Now there is a connector with 4 wires running to the top of the tank ,,, would say it is a good 2 ft long or it seems to be close to that ,, that I have to get apart ,, was hoping to by pass everything in the circuit to see if it would whirl that way !!! If it does I'm going to scream and kick something ,, because it had better not make a sound ,, after all I have went through , to this point ,,

 

Your beeping issue is screwy! If you replaced the SRS bulb and are seeing a LFC then it shouldn't beep.

You can do all the things you've done trying to make the pump work but the question I haven't seen answered is "do you have 12V on the red wire in the connector at the fuel pump"? See my connector photo above. If yes then your pump is bad. If no, where in the circuit is the last place you get 12V?

You can unbolt the bed and lift it up enough, one side at a time to sit it on short 2x4 blocks and slide it back far enough to access the center tank pump. I've done it several times by myself. It's not as difficult as it may sound.
Regular cab pump location.


My 95 Super Cab, with the bed slid back.

 

Well at point now , where ready to undo bed and see if I can work it back ,, this a big bed ,,and the tank is located mid way of bed ,, all I have is #12 wire that I managed to pick up , I studied the pic's you provided ,I may have to remove the toolbox also ,, not sure I can move it with on there (weight wise) , but can try ,, yes it would make it simpler to do , rather than lowering tank , will admit that . Now you are saying if there is 12volts present at the connector , that the pump is bad ,, Are you talking with the key off at this point when testing??? I thought when you run a wire from the battery to the pump that if it started whirling sound , the pump was good ! And that there was a problem some where else in the system ,, not all that great when it comes to tracing elec down,, but trying to follow the steps . Now my question about that Air bag light again is this ,,, asked parts house if there is a special bulb strickly for the air bag light ,, they could not answer that for some reason , if there is then explains why it did not quit (sound) , praying it is not a driver stuck or something in that pcm ,, tho I doubt it . Can fix most things on truck ,, but working on electronics is not one of my best qualities . But I am going to try and hopefully ,, not mess anything up more than it is!!! Oh , almost forgot ,, in your pic ,, how hard is when sliding bed back is it with that filler tube still attached , as in your pic there???? take it you have to put a rag or something over hole to keep rust or dirt from getting in ,, and there is two of these filler tubes also being it is dual tanks

 

In the top photo you can see the wiring connector attached to the frame ( to the right of the pump) . If you pull it loose from the frame, disconnect it and test the pins mentioned above for power you'll know if the pump is getting 12V. Ignition will have to be on. These models have a check valve in the pump "module, as they call it, that prevents flow from tank to tank.

I'll look up the bulb but IIRC it's just a 161

Edit:
Just to prevent a major foopah, you do not have the dash panel off and the fuel selector switch disconnected do you?

The 161 or 194 is fine for the bulb.

 

Ok unplugged connector going to fuel pump in the tank (front) , found a good ground , used tester to see in any current present coming to pump ,, at this point seems there is none ( light will not come on Tester ) ,, Ok would a bad Ignition switch cause this??? at steering column . if there was a bad connection could it cause the pump not to energize???? Or can I rule that out. I re hooked every thing in the dash as I went ,, little perplexing that the beeping didn't go away tho ,,, of course I did use another bulb from the cluster its self to see if it would stop ,, unless it needs to be a brand new one! Oh yes ,, I did run a wire from Pos at battery and tryed to see if pump would come on ,,, but I dont believe I grounded it while doing it ,, Now neighbor happen to have a volt meter ,, just need to know what to set it at , never had to use one before!!!!

 

Ok so far I can not seem to get any voltage at the point the fuel pump connects , take it I am going to have to start probing back down the line toward the engine compartment ,, all I can tell you at this point is for sure have voltage at fuse box under hood , and can hear relay click (energize) when key is turned to on ,, I seem to have power at the switch connecting to the Inertia Switch ,, by the way does your connector to Inertia have three wires running to it or just two? I only see two on this one ( reason asking , a local mechanic over the phone mentioned three , being our trucks are almost the same , how many you have ,, because did find a wire , laying below , it is red and someone has run that wire from some where , I'm thinking it is the old speaker wire run to speaker behind seat on passenger side . there has to be a break some where what else can I test that is related to or wired in conjunction to the pump ??? Going to check one more time at pump connection to be doubly sure there is no voltage present ,,, where would you start checking your self at this point ? that pump on the rail under truck ,, I can not see any connections to it (elec) at all ,,

 

Inertia switch has only two wires.



Here is your path to follow.

 

Wait just a minute here!!! wow that is a tripped inertia ?? may be I ned to recheck that thing ,,, you know I kept thinking it would be all the way tripped up ! ,,, but if it is ,,, when I connected a jumper wire to it (connector ) shouldn't it (pump come on and code go away? ) What I'm trying to say here is mine looks like that pic tripped ,,, If I reach in and pop it up , it comes all the way up

 

It should be down. The cutting away buggered up the mechanics of the switch a bit.

 

Hold on be right back ,, going to walk out and look at it a little closer , being kick panel is still off for now

 

Ok it is all the way down ,,, alright,,,, if not getting a light on tester at point of connector to fuel pump , means it is back toward the engine some where right??? What all does that Ignition switch on steering wheel housing control???
When you turn key on it should energize the pump along with many other things right?

 

Yes. The PCM activates the fuel pump relay.

Ground terminal "A" and turn the ignition switch to on. That activates the relay to run the pump.