So what did you do to your 6.0L today?
07-12-2018, 10:14 PM
07-12-2018, 10:16 PM
FTE Chapter Leader
I had a mystery coolant disappearing and I think I found it yesterday as I was putting it all back together.
The top hose was a new thing I had put on shortly after I got this one do to the original one cracking and
looking like it was ready to blow out. I found some slight leak trace marks on the shroud below the hose
connection and so I put a bit more tightening into the clamp and today I did not smell any coolant from the truck
like I haver been in the past. Lets see if this fixes the smell and it keeps the level up.
The top hose was a new thing I had put on shortly after I got this one do to the original one cracking and
looking like it was ready to blow out. I found some slight leak trace marks on the shroud below the hose
connection and so I put a bit more tightening into the clamp and today I did not smell any coolant from the truck
like I haver been in the past. Lets see if this fixes the smell and it keeps the level up.
07-12-2018, 10:25 PM
FTE Chapter Leader
Sean - any concerns to the Blue Wire mod grounding the fan clutch? It's supposed to be a square-wave modulated signal, right? Any time period max to grounding it with a straight signal? I can get a single shot relay to can do a max time if that's a better option than a straight ground switch.
Here is the tool I made for the testing
Here are the twh scope views of the FSS but not the signal from the PCM. That is one I still need to do.
The square wave in this is from the FSS. Someone said (if I recall correctly) if you have it grounded too long it will set some sort of DTC.
EDIT:
Might be worth looking at this thing.
07-12-2018, 10:35 PM
I had a mystery coolant disappearing and I think I found it yesterday as I was putting it all back together.
The top hose was a new thing I had put on shortly after I got this one do to the original one cracking and
looking like it was ready to blow out. I found some slight leak trace marks on the shroud below the hose
connection and so I put a bit more tightening into the clamp and today I did not smell any coolant from the truck
like I haver been in the past. Lets see if this fixes the smell and it keeps the level up.
The top hose was a new thing I had put on shortly after I got this one do to the original one cracking and
looking like it was ready to blow out. I found some slight leak trace marks on the shroud below the hose
connection and so I put a bit more tightening into the clamp and today I did not smell any coolant from the truck
like I haver been in the past. Lets see if this fixes the smell and it keeps the level up.
07-12-2018, 11:11 PM
FTE Chapter Leader
Well that is puzzling.
I was smelling hot coolant but never saw a drop anywhere and the truck is deleted. I had done both a vacuum and pressure test on the system and it seemed to be hiding
so I knew it must be something tiny. I happened to spot it when I was putting the cold side pipe back on. It was so much easier with everything out of the way.
I stopped in at Ford today and picked up some more transfer case fluid for part #2 of the flushing out the case. I think it's had enough time to clear out any that might be left in there.
I will see if this time it comes out on the clean side and not smelling of skunk. I will next tackle the rear diff and then the front with an engine oil change somewhere in between that.
And the trans project tossed in there too, But the first thing I must do is get the parts I took off of the project truck along with torquing all of the suspension bolts that I put in hand tight.
I think at this point I should get my hands on a witness mark pen so that I know what I have done and what still needs to be torqued. I am tempted to remove the brake pads and rotors
from the project truck and put them on the truck I am driving do to the fact they are the Ford blue set. What ever is on the new truck sort of suck and those pads don't have many miles
on them. Also the front rotors were new and the rears only had 1 cut on them. So if I do it will be all going on the corners they came off of. The ones on the truck right now don't have much
wear on them but they suck as far as grip and dust goes. Maybe Jack will have some input about this.
I was smelling hot coolant but never saw a drop anywhere and the truck is deleted. I had done both a vacuum and pressure test on the system and it seemed to be hiding
so I knew it must be something tiny. I happened to spot it when I was putting the cold side pipe back on. It was so much easier with everything out of the way.
I stopped in at Ford today and picked up some more transfer case fluid for part #2 of the flushing out the case. I think it's had enough time to clear out any that might be left in there.
I will see if this time it comes out on the clean side and not smelling of skunk. I will next tackle the rear diff and then the front with an engine oil change somewhere in between that.
And the trans project tossed in there too, But the first thing I must do is get the parts I took off of the project truck along with torquing all of the suspension bolts that I put in hand tight.
I think at this point I should get my hands on a witness mark pen so that I know what I have done and what still needs to be torqued. I am tempted to remove the brake pads and rotors
from the project truck and put them on the truck I am driving do to the fact they are the Ford blue set. What ever is on the new truck sort of suck and those pads don't have many miles
on them. Also the front rotors were new and the rears only had 1 cut on them. So if I do it will be all going on the corners they came off of. The ones on the truck right now don't have much
wear on them but they suck as far as grip and dust goes. Maybe Jack will have some input about this.
07-13-2018, 07:49 AM
Nice, I just hit 100K a few weeks ago. The PO kept the truck as a garage queen
and it's taking some work to get all the flab off.
Today I finished my 4 day project of swapping out the power steering pump and gear.
Drives so much better now with the sloppy steering gone. I also swapped out the battery interconnect and starter cable do to the fact that the one that was in the truck was showing some corrosion at the crimp near
the passenger side positive post. That is not a simple process even if it should be. The heater lead is connected to the starter cable with the stupid plastic pinecone push pins. Talk about a PITA to separate them.
Could of used a good divorce attorney. It seemed like there was a connection about every 6 inches. SUCKED! Oh and the end of the cable that bolts onto the starter would hang up in the trans cooler lines as you pull
it back from the starter. I ended up with both arms hugging the crossmember it seemed like. One pushing the other one guiding,twisting and pulling. The funny thing is it went back into place with little effort. I did end up
pulling both the starter cable and the heater cable out because of the tie points. Then there was that nut below the compressor that was on at Magilla gorilla torque. It should of only been on at 35 Lb/Ft. Sure did not
feel like that. The last thing I did after all that was done was to replace both the bushings for the anti-sway bar. The driver side one had a tendency to pop out from the hoop do to one edge being torn. I had a new set so
they went on and that was that. I did place a filter in the line to catch any trash that might be in the system. It's not going to be easy to remove it after a few thousand miles or so. The system got filled with Mercon V and
was nice and quiet after I vacuumed all the air bubbles out and did a stop to stop up on a jack and then toped it off. I'll see how much I have to add at the start of my day.
and it's taking some work to get all the flab off.
Today I finished my 4 day project of swapping out the power steering pump and gear.
Drives so much better now with the sloppy steering gone. I also swapped out the battery interconnect and starter cable do to the fact that the one that was in the truck was showing some corrosion at the crimp near
the passenger side positive post. That is not a simple process even if it should be. The heater lead is connected to the starter cable with the stupid plastic pinecone push pins. Talk about a PITA to separate them.
Could of used a good divorce attorney. It seemed like there was a connection about every 6 inches. SUCKED! Oh and the end of the cable that bolts onto the starter would hang up in the trans cooler lines as you pull
it back from the starter. I ended up with both arms hugging the crossmember it seemed like. One pushing the other one guiding,twisting and pulling. The funny thing is it went back into place with little effort. I did end up
pulling both the starter cable and the heater cable out because of the tie points. Then there was that nut below the compressor that was on at Magilla gorilla torque. It should of only been on at 35 Lb/Ft. Sure did not
feel like that. The last thing I did after all that was done was to replace both the bushings for the anti-sway bar. The driver side one had a tendency to pop out from the hoop do to one edge being torn. I had a new set so
they went on and that was that. I did place a filter in the line to catch any trash that might be in the system. It's not going to be easy to remove it after a few thousand miles or so. The system got filled with Mercon V and
was nice and quiet after I vacuumed all the air bubbles out and did a stop to stop up on a jack and then toped it off. I'll see how much I have to add at the start of my day.
07-13-2018, 09:42 AM
Cargo Master
with the exception of when the HG went this is the first time ive had coolant mysteriously disappear like this... wasnt getting above average temps or anything like that.. nor any puking around the degas bottle... only thing i can think of is maybe an air bubble finally worked its way out of the system since i been parking it nose down hill so much lately.. but is very puzzling to me...
07-13-2018, 10:49 AM
I can't think of a better person right now to evaluate brake pads Sean, two trucks the same.
I have to say I still screwed up from the comments that there are no longer "blue box" pads, and all the variations in the Motorcraft lineup. Just don't have a good understanding of how everything newly aligned. But if the Blue's have the feel you prefer, yep I'd grab them. If there still is an edge code on both trucks sets it wouldn't hurt to grab what they are.
I have to say I still screwed up from the comments that there are no longer "blue box" pads, and all the variations in the Motorcraft lineup. Just don't have a good understanding of how everything newly aligned. But if the Blue's have the feel you prefer, yep I'd grab them. If there still is an edge code on both trucks sets it wouldn't hurt to grab what they are.
07-13-2018, 02:10 PM
FTE Chapter Leader
I can't think of a better person right now to evaluate brake pads Sean, two trucks the same.
I have to say I still screwed up from the comments that there are no longer "blue box" pads, and all the variations in the Motorcraft lineup. Just don't have a good understanding of how everything newly aligned. But if the Blue's have the feel you prefer, yep I'd grab them. If there still is an edge code on both trucks sets it wouldn't hurt to grab what they are.
I have to say I still screwed up from the comments that there are no longer "blue box" pads, and all the variations in the Motorcraft lineup. Just don't have a good understanding of how everything newly aligned. But if the Blue's have the feel you prefer, yep I'd grab them. If there still is an edge code on both trucks sets it wouldn't hurt to grab what they are.
I liked the way the blue pads felt and they really did not throw off the dust like the ones on this truck do.
This truck stops a bit slower than the other one. That could just be feel. It does stop fast in a panic stop.
I would say it sort of a half way between the blue pads and the O'Reilly house brand that don't stop for ****.
07-13-2018, 02:31 PM
07-13-2018, 10:02 PM
FTE Chapter Leader
I would think some degreaser and the garden hose.
Or if your feeling your oats some of the Extreme Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner.
That will do the trick. I used to use it to clean the under hood insulation pad on the Ranger.
Made it look like new again and all I did was spray it on and wash it off with the hose.
Or if your feeling your oats some of the Extreme Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner.
That will do the trick. I used to use it to clean the under hood insulation pad on the Ranger.
Made it look like new again and all I did was spray it on and wash it off with the hose.
07-13-2018, 11:34 PM
what did i do today to mine?? well i took it to the good will store to drop off furniture we didnt need anymore... and then she cost me $72.00 along the way home...