probably not so much me... but a community effort... they probably get more annoyed with me than anything since i tend to pester their CS people with a ton of questions before purchasing... i will tell you though i got a "free" shirt from them once during a purchase... i love to wear it when i travel... well as my backup shirt... another company gets the primary travel shirt... XDP gets the honor when the primary is dirty from the trip out...

i use to buy alot from RRD... but after finding other places to buy from i started to notice they tended to be on the higher end price wise... while theyre not in my top 3, theyre still pretty close to it.. since i can sometimes find things there i cant find other places...

 

 

I finished the MLV layer on my truck for sound deadening and put back the seats.
Besides my earlier post about laying the largest pieces 48" width, whole truck floor length wise, then another narrow strip on the passenger side to make up for the short 48" width of the floor, here's what may help others.

Thanks to mhatlen in many moons ago who told me that I don't need to remove the dash, I followed his advice, and it works. For the center of the dash area, after removing the small storage compartment, I put a piece 14" by 21" to it. I only cut a small rectangle 2.5" height, probably 7" or 8" starting from the left, go all the way to the right. I forgot what's the offset from the top, maybe 10". Basically, that's for the HVAC bolt/leg that you'll see. I unbolt it, slide it over, and bolt it back. That goes all the way to the top, maybe curve a bit. At the bottom, where the airbag controller (I think) sits, I cut it out to fit. I also took the bottom air duct out. The plastic air duct is hold on by two silver screws, 8mm I think. To put back, points the two small hole end toward you (the rear of vehicle), starting from the right, and insert it to the left, and rotate it back to position. One trick I did to get it the square opening to fit is to use a flash light and a flat screw driver to guide it from the small opening at the bottom of it.

On the driver side, where some said it's the noisiest place, I taped together 6 pieces of double pages magazine pages (that's 12 page total). It's 27" width by 32" height. This would insert it all the way to the top and curves a little. The top right would need about 2" trim to allow an electric wire bundle to freely route (I didn't check which bundle that was for).

I measured offsets of various holes. This includes steering column, emergency brake, wire bundles (2 big and 2 small I think), accelerator pedal, etc., then I cut out approximates holes for those. I put the paper in place for fitness. I mark any change of any positions/sizes, then took out, laid on the MLV, draw and cut.

Those two pieces appear hard to be put in place in the beginning, but some trying, roll, tug, etc., it would get in place very nicely. For the driver side, I glue it at the bottom since that's where the feet are. For the center piece, there is an "un-used" bolt stuck out. I just pushed it through the piece. That would help holding it, but I doubt it needs it.

There's not much to do on the right side, since it's where the air blower box is. A set of precision knives is indispensable/pleasure for doing this. I used a cheapo $4 at HF, worked great, the blades got dull though, but overall I used 4 total for the whole project. They came with a bunch of them.

 

hauled the new camper to storage for the winter.
1.5 hr drive. Truck did good. Didn't tighten the distribution hitch up tight. 3 bad balljoints and a possible dry hub bearing. Get the hubs just waiting on joints.

 

Thanks for all the support guys! Yeah, when we get feedback on something that could be added to our lineup, we certainly listen. Someone giving us product advice/requests is never a bother! Don't hesitate to send me a PM or give us a call if there's anything we can help with. On the username... Jeremy used to handle this forum, but he left a few years ago and the Mods haven't been able to change the name. So Jeremy it is LOL. -Jeff

 

It is always nice when you get to have interactions with supporters and suppliers.

Today the BIG Brown Happy stuff truck stopped by and left me a box that had a sticker on it saying HEAVY.
My exhaust system is now here and I get to go buy some band clamps for it.


And here are the photos to prove that it happened.










Oh fun I get to play with stainless steel pipe. Now I am getting somewhere!

 

i didnt get the stuff i ordered to fix the saws yet... they came into Raleigh on saturday which is an hr souf of me... then went another 2 hrs west of me to another town before they shut down operations... which didnt make sense...

 

Mevotech heavy duty ball joints from RA came in today.

 

Got their 4" catback on mine (california), love it, sounds great, isn't loud and EGT's dropped over 100 degrees. Also, Love the Flexzilla hose.

Mark

 

I am keeping the Kat in this mix do to not knowing how much worse the tree huggers are going to make it up here.

 

When I lived up there (stationed at Bremerton), Seattle implemented smog. All the 5.0 guys back in the day were freaking out as they had tossed the stock H-pipe and suddenly needed one to pass smog. I've still got family up there in Spanaway and Montesano. Heck, the nephew (wife's side), has a 6.0, don't know if he's broke it yet or not.

 

Thanks to a few threads about the HFCM water separator, I decided to clean and change my filters.
The upper filter was also changed, but it looked good before changing. I changed it not long ago, but with a cheapo filter. Today, I put a motocraft on it. Not sure what's the difference is.

The lower filter, some people said the Motorcraft can separate water, is that true?

I replaced the lower one first, so there is not much fuel on top one.

I used 6 mm hex bit, an adjustable wrench to break loose the drain bolt, then use 1/4" ratchet box wrench end to take it out.
It was super dirty. I use a trimmed baby tooth brush to clean inside and brake cleaner to force the rest out.
On the bottom filter, I used 36 mm socket. To take out, I removed a black metal tube, maybe brake line to have room.
To put back, I wrapped the new filter/cap in food plastic wrap and got it in to position, removed the plastic wrap and turn it in.
I couldn't turn it in initially. It keeps hitting something. I thought it was pushed out by a spring, so I pushed it in harder and turn and it went in.

The top one uses 24 mm socket to remove the cap. I opened the little cap screw at the bottom first to drain anything left before opening it, not sure if it helps or not.

Just found a great simple test for gasoline contamination in diesel:

 

the difference between the factory and aftermarket filters is how theyre made... the factory/motorcraft fuel filters are made by a company that goes by 2 different names... Primarily Parker Hannifin... the other name their known by is Racor.. the factory filters have a much finer screening to them than the aftermarket ones... so they catch the particulates better... the lower filter in the HFCM screens at 10microns (screens out majority of the water that gets trapped in the fuel.. but doesnt get everything theyre only 98% efficient)... the upper filter screens down to 2 microns... the aftermarket ones made to fit the same housings dont screen as finely...

both factory and the aftermarket ones can separated it... the difference is their efficiency... the factory filters are only 98% efficient at screening out the water... but that still means 2% can get through... water in a diesel engine is very bad... so straining out the best you can is something to look for.. some have gone so far as to add an additional water separator closer to the tank..

 

 

i miss Ron... he made good ficm repairs....