thats the newer version than the one i have.. but layouts similar.. mines the older yellow one they use to give out before they switched to them being red. have opened one of them before though.. dad fricasseed one of them testing circuits around the new house.. the circuit path take was all cooked and rolled up when i got into it..

 

 

ihave one on another board... i can copy and past it somewhere here once lunch rolls around. it took me awhile to get everything then the crappy weather delayed everything as well..

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-my-truck.html

here you go Jack.

 

 

(long read, if you have time) I am cleaning the injectors today. I have a few questions and experience to share.

First, I did the top oring replacement before (different engine) using the method of not removing the c-clip. I thought maybe removing the c-clip would make the whole thing easier and "surer". Well, after watching some youtube videos, it appears to be easy.

I took me a whole last evening and this early morning to take one out. I was thinking that since the existing oring looks to be ok, let's not do the rest.
After I got the c-clip out, I thought to myself that I know the method and it's rather easy, so I went ahead to do the next one.

Well, my method was not what was documented or explicitly said in those video. I pushed the c-clip around so that when I lay the injector flat on the "non" plastic side of the electric solenoid, the plastic stuff would not break. That's the 1st thing, secure it down, not holding it, and clamp it if having one. Next, I would punch at the end of the c-clip with a "good" small flat screw. I used a soft flat screw yesterday and the screw would flatten and bend, but not the c-clip. So there you go, the 2nd thing, must have a very good flat screw :-). After that, the 3rd thing is a holding it and hammer strong and firmly to make sure it doesn't jump inside, but outside, and firm enough to dislodge the clip.

Well, sound good doesn't it? It doesn't work on the 2nd injector. That's just bad. Well, I gave up and put in the o-ring. Took a couple of minutes and the oring was in. Pretty easy, why remove the c-clip at all? Haha.

So how did I do it? I squeeze the o-ring into a long shape. Then push it in. Naturally, it would push the taper metal guide ring (or whatever you call it) down. Then I let go. Next, I pull it back up along with that metal guide ring. Then using a small pick I push that bottom end into the grove and just gently slowly squeeze the rest it. The last time I did it, I recalled it was much harder. So here's my question.

Observed the new ring and the old one, they looks the same inside the injector (barely pass the inside of the metal guide ring). I stretched the old one (it was broken in half due to me poke it in the middle to pull it out with a pick), and it was very elastic, not harden nor broken. The inside surface is mostly smooth, with very very tiny places not smooth, not tore up.

I compared the old ring and the new one, and the old one appears to be a bit thicker in a few places, but it's just my eyes, not measurement.

So, my question is should I even replace it at all? Maybe just replace the outter orings and the copper gasket and be done with it? Even though it is easy to do, poking around inside with a pick is something I rather avoid. Also, could it be my newer o-ring is inferior to the older one and replacing it would be a downgrade?

I don't know. Maybe some of you went over this before and share your opinions. Thanks.

 

In the last month I've done the following: New Fire Ring Heads (AGAIN), replaced a Bullet Proof Diesel 6 phase power supply for my FICM (under warranty), patched a tire, rotate and balance, finally added a nice JL Audio AMP and some 10" subs I've had sitting in my shop for 2 years and installed some decent separates in all 4 doors, replaced both AGM batteries AGAIN (less than a year old and under warranty), recovered my driver's seat and replaced the bottom cushion, ordered new seat heater elements (did this out of order - now I have to take it back apart to replace the elements), DELETED my rear lift blocks and replaced with pro-comp 6" springs, ladder / traction bars (boy its nice to not have the axle moving around anymore) 4 new Bilstein 5150 shocks all around, new decent quality cell phone holder - windshield mount, replaced the driver's door inner panel with a decent used one from the junk yard and finally (I'm sure I'm forgetting something) replaced the front windshield glass...

 

How'd you break it?

 

I think its because it got about 20 gallons of unleaded mixed in the tank. Courtesy of the fuel truck at one of the productions I was working on. The driver was on his 7th day, 100 hour work week and got confused. Filled his diesel tank with unleaded and filled his unleaded tank with diesel then proceeded to go fuel all of the vehicles he needed to fuel for the day. Like I said, I got about 20 gallons and had no idea. Drove about 100 miles before the fuel pump died. It ran like **** but never quit. It got hot. Damaged a couple of the injectors... so I had the tank flushed, replaced the injectors, changed the oil, replaced the fuel pump and put it back on the road. It took a few more months for it to really start burning coolant but thats the only time it ever got hot. Other than that I'm just guessing. Someone else on here suggested that running the high end tune I'm running is the reason. Whats your opinion on that?

 

I really don't have one when it comes to fire ringed heads, that's why I was asking how it failed. What's your power level at?

 

Time for a leak down test. I fear that you may be looking as some more major work.

 

 

Also I think it was Alliant that came up with an idea for holding the injector. I don't recall what the size is but if you use a deep socket that works to
hold the injector as you work on it. Stick it in from the nozzle end and you have a safe way to mount it in a vise. Makes it so much more easy to work on.

 

Thanks Tideman. I ended up installing the rest of the top rings with the squeeze method. It didn't take long at all, just a couple minutes more for each. I am not sure what you meant by rolling, but I did it this way: squeeze, put it in, pull out a bit to pull up the metal ring, use a pick to push the bottom into the gap, use my thumb to force the top in as much as I can. Use the pick to re-position anything that is out of place. Push one more time with a thumb or the back side of the pick. Check again, then push the top pass the top metal ring. Next, I use my pinky finger to push the rest in. Next, use the pick to pull up 2 places that are out of places. Then use the pick to go around to position everything in places and use the side of the pick to squeeze the oring wall to the outside. At the end, I put some oil on it and put into the nipple cup to test.

Sounds like a lot but actually, all those movements took a few seconds each and it happens systematically on everyone of them.

 

Thanks, that's a good tip. I didn't take out the c-clip so everything was easy. I took most of the stiction piston out to clean as part of this also. I said most because at the end, I found all injectors I did was pretty smooth, so I decided not to waste time or even introducing contamination.

Because of all that, it took sometimes, but at the end, I went pretty fast without doing that.

I also replaced the rings of the nipple cups. One of the cub was really loose. The rings are very hard, but intact. It took my weight and an extension and some body "acceleration" to break those nuts out, although they're only 100 ft.lbs. I wonder why the socket for these nibble cups don't fit the neck better, so the cub is not very vertical. I have to eye ball it to make sure it's in the middle of the socket adapter.

After torque down, it can be moved by hand but very hard. Hope that won't push the top injector rings to the side and open up a gap.
I didn't open inside to replace the few orings in there.