Does the stock down pipe slide out without any craziness?

 

mine didnt... but i had the turbo, intake, and valve covers off at the time...

some of your exhaust leaks might be caused by people leaving the gasket off the 2 piece part of the up pipe.. seen a few threads on other sites of people doing that.. then whining about the exhaust smell.. others had bad flex pipes.. or improperly connected joint at the turbo in the inlet side.. that ones the most common..

 

I wouldn't mind having dual exhaust. Mine has EGR delete already though.

 

The stock downpipe is one piece. If you're on the ground it will not come out. Up on a lift, maybe but don't know for sure. I always cut them at the bend near the frame and then they practically fall out.

 

i've heard of people getting them out in one piece on a lift. but i think the sawzall is the standard method of removal lol

 

Well if it takes that to get it out then it would take that to also put it back in.
Bummer. The question I guess should be : How Much ground clearance is needed
to get it out without having to cut it?

 

I had to cut mine out the way that it turns and bends is the problem. If I remember it may come out if you remove the transmission crossmember but it's been a while.

 

everybody i've heard about that removed it wound up putting in a new two piece along with a 4" or 5" kit behind it. i've never known anyone to pull it out whole and put it back whole lol! just heard that it's been done... but i guess not, based on your experience ^^^
good to know, i'll just rip it in half when the time comes!

 

I pulled mine out the top with the turbo off. Real easy.

 

Yup, that's the book method.

 

opps... i just realised you asked about the downpipe.. i was thinking you were asking about the up pipes when i replied here...

 

The last time I had the turbo out of the old truck the up pipes were not a problem.
In fact I had loosened the bolts first before reinstalling the turbo and never had all
the issues with having to use a ratchet strap to move the down pipe into place.

I have a feeling from looking around with the bore scope that I may have to do the
"T" pipe anyway because of what looked to be some separated weave on one of the
flex joints. So if that is where one of the leaks happens to be at I may as well do the
down pipe and swap the "Y" pipe from the old truck into the new truck. Not that I want
or need any more work to do on the trucks.

 

Looks like I might get to do an STC fitting.
I only have about 50K miles where Ford did not do much to the truck and the Oasis
report does not show the STC as being done. It does show Numerous turbo problems
with the last one being a rusted stuck one. This truck has spent it life like what would
be called a Hanger Queen. That is an air plane that just sits in the hanger and is not
used for one reason or the other. Looks like all the joints in the aftermarket exhaust
will need work and the down pipe does not seal at the turbo or the Kat. Top that off
with the fact that the "Y" joint to make it a dual is right where the B&W turnover ball
hitch needs to live and I think I will just replace the mess. It's sad that a factory down
pipe costs over $300. How I hate the smell of unburned diesel fuel. The injectors looked
clean and the white O-ring still had all of it;s color and the injector bodies were clean
and new looking, I could not find any of the Ford markings on them and I only have the
driver side done. #8 did have some slight blueing on the edge. Not happy about that.
The #2 glow plug that was throwing codes turned out to be shorted and the harness
feels and looks like it's not that old and crispy. I get to start on the passenger side now.
After looking at the #7 harness side plug I am going to replace the injector harness to
be safe. It was not in the best of shape from the RTV and oil.

 

Sean, let me know if you get rid of the dual exhaust. I may Be interested. Mine is 4" turbo back single right now.

 

maybe you 2 could swap systems lol sean takes your single.. you get his dually...