I see a Motorcraft box, that's a good thing. Even better was getting rid of that non-oem primary filter that did not have the water block membrane.

Mine is due now but the misty rain is here so it will have to wait.

 

And they're straight and not twisted.

 

Almost looks like half the main was clean.

 

trying to find the thunking noise/knocking feeling im getting under the driver side floor board that appeared after i hit a bump a couple weeks ago... pulled the drop links... didnt find anything there... unbolted the spings.. other than the bushings showing their age with little cracks they still seemed in good enough condition to keep them in place..

out side wise the body bushings look ok but couldnt really get the body off to check the inside of them with full removal... i didnt feel like pulling the driver and passenger seats today just to remove the center bushing bolts.. (if im going to pull those its going to be when im replacing them) of the ones i did pull the bolts on they look pretty new.. so its not a snapped bolt.. hub seems tight still... so im at a loss for what it could be making the noise and feeling under the floor.....

 

I know you said you pulled the links but didn't find anything, but did you try driving with one of the links disconnected?

 

no i did not... i did that along time ago when i first got the truck... i mainly disconnected them today to make sure the frame side mount wasnt rounded out... which it wasnt... id replaced everything else in connection with the sway bar a long time ago...

 

Wrecked about a week and half ago and apparently I have comp but no collision insurance. Spent 650 on the parts and I have a chrome grill, driver headlight and hood left over. $350 on the bumper and $40 for a track bar on CL.

The axle was shifted 3" to the driverside and the coil was nearly touching the frame on the passanger side. The track bar was bent laterally and torsionally so it measured fine on the truck so I was worried it was the frame. I had no help with the bumper so I dumped it out of the truck and lifted it up with ratchet straps on a tree branch.

Tomorrow I'll get the alignment checked but the wheel is no longer turned 170* to the left so it's a good sign. Just have to replace the standard bolts with grade 8 on the bumper to make me happy and figure out how to plug up those sweet lights, probably just to the factory switch. Also not sure if I should have the other hood painted and replace or leave the dent as is in the 3rd picture

Thanks a bunch, person in Katy who's name is totally escaping me right now for all the help over the past week.

 

Looks like the fuel filters that came off my truck not long after I bought it....


As soon as, I swapped them for Motorcraft, it was a night and day difference.

 

ouch man and very much a bummer on the insurance.... but looks like your getting it back into shape again...

 

I had that sound, couldn't find anything, then disconnected one link and problem went away. Got new links even though they looked ok. It's an easy check and be worth the few minutes.

 

I usually have 250 or 500 deductible so at $1,040 minus what I can sell the little parts for and no hit to my collision insurance it may not be that bad. Color is off on the fender but I'll see how much it annoys me.

 

i had replaced mine with poly bushings after getting the truck... originally was going to just replace them but when i went looking every where people were saying the factory and replacement ones sucked.. to go poly and forget it..

took me 3 tries to get the right ones mainly because ford did so many versions on the same year.. some of the parts on it in order to get the right ones i have to order from the 03 years.. others 04 but then i have to figure out which time frame in 04 they belonged to.. and to make it even more frustrating i run into parts sites (ford included) that claim my truck doesnt have what it does... for prime example the 1-1/16" front sway bar.. very annoying

 

Ran up to Ennis for NHRDA, man you talk about some awesome trucks with an insane amount of power!


People won, people lost, not too many people ended up with a broken truck, it was just an awesome day of diesel racing.


This was also the first long haul test of fuel economy between the earliest and latest strategies PCM and FICM for my 2005 Excursion.


Earliest strategies:


VXDA1M2- PCM (Catchword EBT1)
AMZ2AL11- FICM (non-inductive heating flash paired with EBT1)


Latest:


VXDB1MZ- PCM (Catchword VXD1)
ARZ2AL10-FICM (inductive heating flash paired with VXD1)


Running SRL+ written for EBT1 and AMZ2AL11, my truck is way more responsive than VXD1.


-The shifting is much better and more precise on EBT1. When I put it into reverse or drive, it goes into gear without delay and with a snap. VXD1 has some seriously lazy and sloppy shifting. I don't know how anyone can deal with it.


-The Power difference is unbelievable. Running a Powermax turbine with a full fuel tune and ARZ2AL10 there were simply too many times I would mash it and have to yell "Come on, Come on, Come on, Come on" and THEN the turbo would spool and take off. Running SRL+ and AMZ2AL11, I have ZERO, I mean Z-E-R-O problems spooling that powermax turbine. No lag, no laziness, it just goes when I mash it.


-Fuel Economy is definitely up. Running at 75 mph through the slight hills we have in central Texas put me at 408 miles just above quarter tank, so it's somewhere about 18 mpg or so.

Today is also exactly 1 year of running a 3.5 inch downpipe vs the 4 inch that I had them put on while it was at the shop. Spool was and still is MUCH better with the 3.5 inch vs the 4 inch.

Rolling back to an earlier PCM strategy and a non-inductive heating flash has proven beneficial. I plan on getting the oil changed next week and ordering some AR9100 for the winter and as some maintenance for whatever stiction may be hindering performance.

 

How do you go about getting an earlier PCM strategy programmed?

 

Replaced my clock spring. No more horn going off in the middle of the night waking all the neighbors.