I have been talking about this long enough now so it's time for me to get the ball rolling. Some of you are familiar with my rear main seal leak which prompted this project. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-with-pix.html When I was replacing the rear main seal it was discovered (Thanks to many on this forum) that my #5 main bearing was on it's last leg and that is why it keep leaking oil even after I replaced the seals. Now it has developed a knock on start up although it still maintains good oil pressure.

I have selected a vendor to supply a 400 long block create engine and this week I will be placing the order. I may have the machine shop slip in a mild lift "RV" cam but my concern is will it pass the California tail pipe emissions test? I think it will but I would like to get some feedback on your thoughts. I will also be replacing the clutch and since I haven't done a clutch since High School I'm a little rusty so my question is what parts should be replaced?

I'm making up my parts list this week along with my task list. One of the things I will be doing is having the engine compartment and underside completely detailed by a professional shop once the old engine has been removed. The transmission and transfer case is in good shape so I'm not sure if I will take them out to clean them up, I probably will I'm just worried about removing them by myself with only a small army of floor jacks. I will have a fork lift as my engine hoist and Old Style was kind to lend my his quality engine stand. (Thanks Glen!)

This will be a fun project for me since I haven't done an engine replacement in over 20 years and my last one I did completely by myself but it went pretty easily.

There will be updates and of course lots or photos as this project gets underway.

 

Hey Steve! Good to hear from ya. On the cam, that's gonna be iffy but there's only one way to find out! RV cams are mild so we'll keep our fingers crossed.

For the clutch, replace the pressure plate, clutch disc, and the throw out bearing. I'd replace the flywheel only if it had heat checks/micro cracks. Otherwise, dress it with 220-grit and reinstall.

I have a knockdown cherry picker. Lemme know if ya wanna borrow it and I can deliver ...and maybe provide an extra set of hands.

 

If the transmission and xfer case are ok and not needing any shop time, aka (rebuild), just leave well enough alone.

If they need anything like seal or internal work, drop them and get it done. A extra pair of hands and a trans jack is the smart/safe way to go.

But I bet you could use the fork lift forks as a reach under support if you have to pull them? Together they are HEAVY and a great way to get hurt dropping them by yourself.

 

Thanks HIO Silver, I might take you up on the extra pair of hands.

77&79F250, The fork lift idea for the tranny and T case sounds like a good idea. I will have to mesure the fork reach and see if I need to fab up something to sit on the forks if I go that route. A good friend (Turbohunter) suggested removing the T case and the tranny separately to avoid potential injury. I'm still on the fence about the T case and tranny, they really are OK but I wouldn't mind replacing the seals.

 

I found this link a few years ago and the funny thing is all the work was done here in the bay area in Concord. The machine shop they did it at is right next to Monument Auto Parts in Pacheco. Im planning on talking to them once I get to my engine since theyve done exactly what I want to do. The article is perfect because the 400 theyre doing had to be smogged since its in California. Hopefully this will help you, they answer your question about the cam.

Ford 406 Engine Build - Hot Rod Magazine

 

If it's a "regular" forklift, the fork reach should be 42"-48"

 

Keep in mind that flywheel can be resurfaced just like brake drums & rotors. Also i'm going to guess that Fords have pilot bushings in end of crank so keep in mind your new 400 will need one.
I really like Candy Cane can't wait to hear more about that new 400 as i will be replacing mine also.

 

A big YES on removing separately to avoid injury. Motor out the top and trans/xfer out the bottom. But I would say only if you really need to replace or repair something.

Now is the time to do it, thats for sure.

If you can get the forks under there far enough to be under the trans/xfer case you could use a piece of steel or a piece of 3/4 plywood. A little longer and wider than the trans/xfer case itself.

Build a pallet so to speak with some 2x4's on each side to make a cradle like set up, so it will not roll off. Its not all the heavy when setting on the ground, but hanging under a truck and if it falls, someone can get hurt with a quickness.

It really sounds like a more than one guy job and at least HIO silver offered a xtra pair of hands.

 

I will have to mesure the fork reach and see if I need to fab up something to sit on the forks

 

You shouldn't have a "smog inspection" issue with a rv cam and straight-up timing. Most likely it will burn cleaner.... It's just the visible inspection with your carb you will still have to deal with. At least it's only twice a year. edit: Every 2 years.... duh!

If it's not broke be careful fixing it....



.

 

It's a biannual smog inspection, right? According to my Latin, that's once every two years.

Heck, did CARB sneak another friggin' law under the door?

Juventus stultorum magister?

 

Semi-annual = twice a year
biennial = every two years

 

Biannual. Once ever two years I will have to install the stock 2BBL carb and make sure the vacuum lines look good enough to pass. Hopefully I wont have to swap cams too.

 

To far away to lend a hand but I'm pullin' for ya.
Just r n r'd my tranny and t-case, it's heavy. Some type of jack helps if you don't have access to a forklift with extensions. Even if you have a forklift you still have to pull it towards the rear of the truck to disengage the pilot shaft so a piece of ply wood laid over the forks helps you slide it. I jerry rigged a floor jack with straps and blocks. It's a bitch (and dangerous) but it worked.
Might want to throw a ratchet strap from frame side to frame side and under the rear of your engine to support it when you pull the tranny.
I agree with Stinky. If your flywheel is in good shape (not cracked), have it resurfaced. It's just good insurance to have everything fresh.
Good luck dude.
If you can afford to take your time, do it.
And try to have fun.

 

Before I moved to the desert southwest, I had a 79 F-250 (460 C6) with an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, Holley 750 carb and an Edelbrock rv cam. Smog checks were fun, but Mr Franklin always passed...