Hi,
So Ford Dealer 'updated' my '05, 6.0 ECM @ 90k miles while in for fluids and filters, [ coolant, engine, tranny ]. I decined, as I never had any probs since new, but they insisted it was necessary.
Within 10 miles wrench light came on [never had b/4 ]. HPOP and dummy plugs replaced. 10 miles later wrench light again, they say turbo. I say it's running fine. It was replaced and now moans...ughh... I'm battling them on this.

NOW my truck started hiccupping at a certain uphill. I thought I was crazy but it kept doing it and now i can cruise it on a little incline and make it happen. Only if I mash the throttle does it stop. It feels a loss of some power too.
I won't take it to Ford. Don't trust them. I'm paranoid the 'update' has caused this string of bad things.
Reading on here I'm thinking a Blue Spring and an SCT is what my truck needs ??? The hiccup/shudder bugs me, power loss close second.

This truck is babied, only 15k miles towing 8k lbs., the rest hiway miles. Looks new in/out.
But dealer writes 'due to age/mileage vehicle may experience many failures'. [Ford dont put that in SuperBowl adverts] Called and written Corporate, no reply yet.

Never had a 6.0 prob b/4 update. Plenty of stock power for me. I've been insulted. Wanting to do work myself. Am not a mechanic but have done brakes, wheel bearings, tune-ups, oil, re-fabs, installs, 'parts switcher' type. Just willing to be happy as before and looking where to start fixes ?
Thank you,

aka BBD, Mr. nA,
STOCK '05 F250 LB LARIAT 4X4 6.0

 

Sorry for your troubles, it seems your problems started after you had them reflash your truck?

Ask them to return the truck to the flash that was in it prior to them touching it.

Then see what happens.

 

Your going to need some sort of scanner that is able to pull codes, I don't think they are able to reflash it back ,maybe one of the mechanics can verify this. But going forward if you do not trust the dealer then you are going to have to bring it to another one or get the equipment to verify your concerns yourself, ther is a program out there called" auto enginuity"
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/me...de=F03-07-MISC
that can get the ford specific codes out of the computer. If you buy an off the shelf scanner like the innovas they wont see all of the pending dtcs like the AE. There is also a product called scanguage2 ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
for half the price that can do a lot of monitoring of parameters. But without codes it will be very difficult if not impossible for others on here to help you.

 

Your Turbo was probably just probably dirty and they could have cleaned it. If you have never serviced your tranny before 90k it was 60k overdue. Also the coolant should be flushed every 50k. So you were majorly overdue on some of your fluid changes. Have you had the fuel filters changed? Those are very important to keep clean every 10k.

If it was just flashed and now its throwing a wrench light. I'm thinking they may have actually saved you some trouble. You need to get a scanguage or some guages and verify your ect vs eot isn't over a 15 degree difference. That's a precursor to oil cooler plugging up and eventually egr cooler failure. With the newer flashs if your eot exceeds your ect by 15 degrees your wrench light goes on and the truck enters limp mode. Which is probably the power loss your talking about on grades and such. Don't let this go, get it checked. You can change the oil cooler and egr cooler yourself with our help here.

 

Ok, I'll start with a Scanguage. Not completely sure what it can do. Does this pull necessary DTC's ?

tgtrotter

 

ScanGauge Capabilities

First, what it won't do:
Fuel pressure
Exhaust gas Temp
Low (crankcase) oil pressure*
These values are not monitored by the engine computer, there are no sensors under the hood so the SG can't see them.

What it will monitor:
Fuel Level
Battery voltage
Engine coolant temp
Engine oil temp
Trans fluid temp
Intake air temp (on 2 different sensors)
Injection control pressure
Injection pressure regulator
FICM (fuel Injection Control Module) main power
FICM vehicle power
FICM logic power
FICM sync status
Camshaft sync status
Crankshaft sync status
Fuel injector timing
Fuel injector pulse width
Fuel injectors 1-8 on/off commands
Radiator fan speed
Radiator fan duty cycle
Barometric pressure (ambient)
Exhaust back pressure
Turbo Boost (by tinkering with baro settings)
Turbo duty cycle
manifold absolute pressure
Accelerator pedal position
V-ref voltage
Trans shifter position (automatic)
Mass Fuel Desired

These are the main ones. People are still tinkering with codes for misfire counts on specific cylinders and there may be a couple more I missed. In addition to these gauges, the SG has a trip computer that calculates fuel mileage and trip time etc. It also scans for many (but not all) codes that may have been stored if there is a problem that turns on your Check Engine Light. It simply plugs into the OBD port under the dash so install is easy also, and finially, the price is right.
Now for the negative:
The price is inexpensive because it's inexpensively made. The display is LCD but the dots are pretty coarse and it can be hard to read (the color of the backlight can be changed which helps). Half of the gauges you will want to monitor require you to input long strings of numbers to "program" into the unit, it also must be plugged in to do that so you'll be sitting in the driveway for awhile when you first get it. and finially, it is what it is, there are no options to hook up additional sensors to allow it to display the values I mentioned in the beginning.
There are other monitors with touch screens that can be expanded to show the other gauges, like the Edge Insight or DashDaq. These monitors are considerably more expensive but the expandability is important and besides that they just look better. Back-up cameras, mp3 capability, and the ability to completely change the way the screen looks is pretty cool if your budget allows it.

 

Hi,
Real quick thanks for the replies. The Dealer said can't go back on the updates and this was not first fluid changes. Tranny at 30/60/90. Same with upper fuel and 2nd time for lower. Oil I change by feel, smell, since last, then mileage. First time for coolant, been tested as needed changing. The power loss is I experience is not limp mode and minimal compared to limp mode.

So, yestrerday I dry ran (no trailer) truck up steep side of grapevine twiced at 65mph. The second run she started hiccupping and like before, I could control it and make it go away by heavy acceleration. Fan did not kick in nor normally would. After the runs I stopped and looked under hood and had a HISSING from passenger side of motor. It quieted and stopped after a minute or so. ??????? Does this sound familiar to anyone?

No visible hose or water leaks, just noise coming from down the side of engine. I drove a few ewrrands later and it did not do this on return. My degas bottle has 2 or 3 very little drip streaks, always has them from new. I got a Scanguage today and it found no codes/no pending codes. I'm gonna now try to update the X-gauge and add oil temp to check the difference of water oil/temp on flat running.

Again thanks and all replies appreciated.

tgtrotter

$$$$!!!!! :\

 

Hissing sound could possibly be either an exhaust leak or a leak in the CAC boot off the turbo. You said the turbo was replaced so it's very possible that the up pipe or Y pipe isn't aligned correctly. Do you get exhaust smell in the cab? If no then it may be a bad CAC boot.

 

Hi,

I just checked the EOT vs ECT and on flat running for 7 miles after 7 miles warm-up the two read from 4-8 degrees difference, avg 192/198. Went ahead and pulled a grade got up to 16 degrees diff briefly but quickly recovered coming downhill. I guess thats good news.

Still concerend about Tranny Hiccupping. It feels as engine is cutting out but no sounds. Like the engine is cutting out causing the jerk in momentum??

Also the hiss didn't happen tonite. The other day I shook the intake to turbo. Is that the CAC?

 

Have you pulled the egr valve out and checked its condition? if it sticks open too far that could cause drivability concerns, other than that I could see the turbo vanes sticking and causing issues as well, you say there are no codes? Really could be some stored codes that the scangauge can't see. What do your boost levels at wot top out at? and is there any smoke or other signs out of the tailpipe? It is possible it is a transmission concern as well.

 

mine did that , dealer put a new egr valve in and it never did it again...

 

That hiss could quite possibly be the a/c press. equalizing if it was on. It also runs when in defrost.

 

Hello again...getting more formal,

Pulled the EGR valve off and it looked pretty good. Better than pics on here. Cleaned it up, cehecked actuation, relube and before re-installing checked manifold for wetness or gooey stuff. Didn't find any, just dry soot on both and passageways seemed clear as a wire could move easily around them.

Test ran with scanguage and and found EGR position and demand in sync. Also disconnected EGR elect. plug and truck ran worse, less boost, and threw codes PO403/05. When unhooked it stayed open no matter what I tried as far as key on/off. Hmm?

Next FICM reads 48.5 and 48 running. And it is sync. I'm slow and this took up most of my day along with checking online.

Truck still hiccupped a little on test run up hill. Now I read maybe an ICP causes studder.

The hissing was not AC. Didn't have it on. But lastr Dec. dealer did do just the dummy plugs and tube and notes said heard air escaping from valve cover before repair. Could the repair fail? Anyone welcome to jump in and am still concerened about this hiccupping.

Lastly truck did seem to run a little stronger with the EGR valve cleaned...still hiccups. Where is the ICP ?? What else can I diagnosis ?

Wife thinks I'm ignoring her !!

 

I have a contractor i know who said he would have to put the truck in tow mode by pressing in on the button on the gear shift. It would make it stop but after a while he had to take it in to the dealership. I will ask what they did to fix it, tomorrow. And i will post back with the response.

 

I'd appreciate that pmoney. Thanks